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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Have to remove the pad again, bump in the middle came back. After thinking about it, when I put the pad on, and install the nuts hand tight, pad lies flat. After tightening them up some the bump comes back. I think the nuts on the end are pulling the ends in causing the center to buckle. Hopefully I can pull it off, straighten it out, and put in on hand tight, and then only tighten it a half turn more. And maybe it won't buckle.
 
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I finished my console courtesy light mod for Grendel.

Grendel lives...resurrection of a 1970 Charger 500

Before:
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After:
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Yesterday on my A100 I removed the dash cover of the gauges to clean the bulbs and the reflective area around them and the glass so that maybe the lighting and viewing of the fuel gauge would be better. The fuel gauge is the farthest away from the bulb on that side and it's hard to see at night. Sorry I didn't think of taking a pic of the whole dash to show you. Looks like I'll have to put an LED to brighten it up.

While cleaning I bumped the amp gauges needle and noticed later it looked like it was leaning out towards the steering wheel a tad and tried to correct but noticed also how delicate it was and decided to leave well enough alone for now. Eventually put it all back together not catching the needle touching the viewing glass.

Today I'm traveling around town and saw the amp gauge on a slight discharge and thinking Uh Oh, have we thrown the new belt, ...voltage regulator died, now what!. So I pulled the lights on to see if the gauge would show more discharge and NOPE! it didn't even move! WHAT! So I thought I must've moved the connectors on the back of the amp gauge while changing the bulb next to it. Waited for the battery to slow down on restarts and, it didn't. So finished my town business and went home.

Pulled the dash cover and noticed the needle moved outward towards the wheel and said Ah, ...NO WAY. Hooked the battery back up and pulled the lights on a Wa La,...I'll take that easy fix any day. Delicately bent the needle back towards the gauge face and life is good!

Wow, it doesn't take much to bind a needle's movement!

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Received my new set of center cap screws for my Torq-thrusts. A couple that were bolted to the rims decided to flee. I will use a little blue loctite to keep them from escaping again. Also spending another night working on replacing the DODGE letters on my trunklid. Not bad projects for this current rainy, muggy hot weather
 
I managed to get my "super cheap bolt on"....

Actually bolted on. Found these springs at Tractor Supply...had to mildly modify the hinges...but it's on!

Need to drill for the front pins next, then yank it back off for sanding and paint.

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Reassembled the rear end this morning after disassembling it for cleaning and maintenance... 8-3/4, 489 case, 3.23 gears, tapered bearings set at 18 thousandths. 58 years young...
Rolled it under the car on a little home made wooden dolly... ready to lift into place.

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Installed LCA with Hotchkis greasable pivot shaft, and the associated Hotchkis torsion bar. I'll get the other side installed tomorrow.

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Put a fresh pair of mirrors on the wagon. Rh side had the head broken off. Have a matching pair of nice ones now. Not "correct", but neither were the ones on the car. I can see the rh side now. Vey important to have when backing up into the garage.

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Put my body side molding back on now that I got some clips. Dang, no pics. Change the PCV as well. No biggie. I did get the canister purge solenoid changed on my truck. It was bolted to the side of the block on the drivers side. Pull the wheel and fender liner to gain access.
 
Installed Hotchkis Strut Rods this morning. Hotchkis states that the Torsion Bars and LCA's must be moved to provide the necessary clearance for strut rod install. Obviously, they have no idea who their dealing with.
I installed them with taking anything apart. A bit of a challenge yes, but not impossible for anyone who has spent a few years turning wrenches.

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67 Mopar said:
Installed Hotchkis Strut Rods this morning. Hotchkis states that the Torsion Bars and LCA's must be moved to provide the necessary clearance for strut rod install. Obviously, they have no idea who their dealing with.
I installed them with taking anything apart. A bit of a challenge yes, but not impossible for anyone who has spent a few years turning wrenches.

View attachment 1906553View attachment 1906554
Click to expand...

Are you running poly lower bushings.

A trick I saw the guy at Hotchkis do was to overly shorted the strut rod adjustment and leave the bolt into the LCA loose.

Then he pulled the LCA up to ride height. Then pushed it snug against the K-member and move it up and down so it was snug but didn't have any binding. At that point he adjusted the strut rod out to make up for the slack. That way the LCA is moved forward as much as possible while not being bound up.

The more the LCA is moved forward the more positive caster you can get. You're basically taking the range the LCA can go front and back and moving it to that very front of that range.
 
No pics because it was boring, but did some front brake work. FLAPS has two sets of shoes for my car, bought them both so I can just return what I don't need. Then I pull one drum off and while the shoes have seen some mileage there was plenty of meat left and everything was clean. Also at that point I realized I didn't buy a hardware kit, so I cleaned the adjuster, put it all back together and adjusted it, and then adjusted the other side (would have been nice to pull it apart to clean the adjuster on that side but its hot outside and I'm lazy).
Pedal is noticeably better but I still need to test drive it, and I'll keep the set of shoes that will fit for the future. I get VW flashbacks whenever I deal with adjusting drums.
 
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