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1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2

Friend has one with decal. Brother worked at a dealer in 1968 to 70 ish. Before repo's.
Mine didn't come with the 426 sticker. Here's a photo from when it was new. By the way, I'm always on the lookout to identify the original breather that came on mine (seen in the picture) - which I don't have.

Satellite Hemi.jpg

A friend of mine's '66 Coronet did come with it. I do like the sticker but have left it off since that's how mine came.

And mine was late with no sticker. I think it was a crap shoot but earlier are less likely to have them.
Wayne, I "created" a torque strap for my Hemi 4spd car years ago (non power steering). Been working great for 40 years. Used to tell people it was the "rare optional for station wagons" factory piece. I can get photos for you if interested.
Are you attached at the engine mount bolts or to the unused "power steering" hole in the water pump housing casting??
are you talking torque strap for engine lockdown in case of mount failure!
I had a chain from the head to the frame but I was 17 and didn't care much about appearance! today I would do a Stainless tube L/R threaded heim joints and rubber sleeves over the bolts through the heims to reduce vibration , easy to avoid obstacles and adjust!

The chain certainly got peoples attention!
The engine in mine came form a 66 Coronet with a sbd 3 days ahead pf mine.

That car was in a fire but had enough remnants of the decal to show it was there.
Dont know the plant the coronet was built

Mine was April 5th, Lynch road
Are you attached at the engine mount bolts or to the unused "power steering" hole in the water pump housing casting??
To the PS mount and a hole in the frame rail underneath the battery tray. Back when I made this it was solely for safety in case of a broken motor mount. Original appearance was not as critical 40 years ago as it is now. I believe the attach point on the frame horn was already there? An added benefit is it keeps the drive train more stable during shifting, which leads to better shifting! I made a couple more of these back in the day to help out with shifting issues on friends 4 spd. cars. One of them being an A12 Roadrunner. I wasn't in the shop yesterday and my car is on the top position in storage, but I will try to get you a photo today.
Thanks. Confirmed with RC that hex on both ends the transmission end was correct vs the knurled round ends I took out. Cable was JUST long enough and confirms why the FSM says to disconnect it at the transmission before pulling the instrument cluster forward!
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Some above and below shots of the OEM (Owner Engineered & Manufactured) torque strap.



The dog leg at the lower end was to clear the vacuum reservoir on a Charger. I fabbed at least 3 of these back in the day. They worked great and are cheap to make. 1" x 1/4" flat bar.
Actually, while mine has the hex end on the transmission, it has a knurled end on the speedometer.
Interesting. The one I took out, that was run through the wrong hole, was knurled on both ends. The repro I put in was hex on both ends like the NOS Fran shows.
Schumacher hasn't made these in awhile but I did happen to find one on fleabay. It was for an E body but I actually liked the bracket better. Used a longer motor mount bolt with a bushing to space it out. Compact, looks cleaner and no vibration felt using the rubber isolators.
When you look a little harder and the "65" clamp on style sway bar being removed becomes a tad more obvious!

And you just have to love it when you look through your C-47 / DC-3 spares and you find your torque strap parts! Tomorrow's project
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The old Hemi is riding on rubber mounts that look like no fun to change, so before they get torn in half I thought I'd add a torque "strap". Great when you look in your C-47/DC-3 spares and find what you need!
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Gave thoughts to the many ways to skin the cat, but in the end just decided to use the existing transport tie down hole to drill though and out the other side, It's right in line with were I want the strap. Nice thing is, the frame rail is reinforced here to handle the transport chain hook loads. Also note the K frame splash shield is missing, but someone was nice enough to put the mounting bolts back in the rail!
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Retrieve the chips.
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Back to the bad habit of using a car as a work table. All AN aircraft hardware.
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Eye bolt through the new hole and out the existing and a large thick AN970-7 penny washer to cover the hole and transfer the load to the frame rail.
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Turnbuckle bolted in place on the eyebolt. Then measured from it to the water pump housings unused "power steering" boss to get the straps length.
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A 3/8ths hole over there and a 3/8ths hole here and slotted an 1/8" , then cut and shape the piece of flat stock.
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Test fit and all looks good. Damn near right at 45* for a perfect load angle.
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Another shot straight on. Going to leave the turnbuckle just slightly loose so the engine has a BIT of movement before it loads up at the end of the slot I milled. Final assembly will also see the TB safety wired properly.
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Details.... the turnbuckle will get Boeshield T9
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Once I have this in for good I need to get my butt in gear cleaning up all the mess the last guy left buffing the car out. Silver powder everywhere...

...and I keep meaning to ask the other '66 owners. What colour primer was yours dipped in?? and what facility was your car built at? Mine is a greenish tinged gray.
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Not sure about my primer color, but it's a St. Louis car.
Strap and turnbuckle hooked up and snugged tight so I could tighten the strap in place, so it doesn't rotate. Then backed off the TB so the engine can move the length of the slotted hole that I put in the strap.
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Turnbuckle safety wired so it can't loosen off and then a quick tape off for some touch up paint.
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The torque strap is a wrap.
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Quick shot of undercoating to hide the shiny hardware retaining the eye bolt. I think I'm down to just a good clean up on this car and a proper script battery. Famous last words...
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