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383 Low oil pressure,

I've seen pumps worse then that come out of running engines that had so so oil pressure , that pump is junk but it will still pump some thing.
Frist thing I would do is find a shop with an oil filter cutter and see if there is any metal between the pleats if there is take the motor apart.
PS when I put a motor together I always take the oil pump apart and wash it out you would be surprised at how filthy some of them are even new ones.

No metal in the oil filter, it was clean and nice
 
Thinking outside the box a little bit. What if the rocker arm shafts were installed upside down?
 
I now use a system 1 oil filter.Take the cap off anytime to check for debris.
Replaced a dual filter deal and used Moroso NONbypass oil filters.
Any q's pm me:thumbsup:

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I think your missing the whole idea of cutting open an oil filter , When you cut one open you are looking for metallic particles and other debris that made it through the pump and was captured by the filter. By sawing it open with a hack saw you are making a **** load of metal particles and lots of them are landing on the filter media, now you have the filter covered with small particles and your left scratching your head wondering if these little pieces are from worn engine parts or saw chips from the filter canister. No a hacksaw isn't hard to use I just prefer to use the right tool.
If the oil filter was an inch long I would agree with you. But it is not and it is not that hard to determine fresh cut particles from those suspended by oil pulled threw out the length of the filter. Just cut close to the seam, only threw the case and all should be fine.
 
If you have a factory service manual, there are clearance specs listed for the oil pump you can measure with feeler gauges. You're replacing it anyway but it would be interesting to see how the old one measures up.
 
If you have a factory service manual, there are clearance specs listed for the oil pump you can measure with feeler gauges. You're replacing it anyway but it would be interesting to see how the old one measures up.
Maybe check that later on, tomorrow i will drop the pan and check the lower part of the motor
 
Maybe check that later on, tomorrow i will drop the pan and check the lower part of the motor

Thanks! While you are in there, check out the pickup tube for any cracks and to make sure it is tight in the block.
 
First if its hydraulic lifters with zero pressure why aren't the clattering? I'd try another gauge. I agree on the pump gears not being the issue. My racecar car has had broken valve springs run thru the pump. The pump gears were way worse. Held 65 psi with no issues. How is the relief valve? Pull the nut at the end of the pump. The valve should pull out easily. I've had small pieces of debris stick them wide open, causing no pressure. As far as bearing clearance. My son bought a 340 Duster. Ran 13.30, no issues. Sounded fine 45 psi oil pressure. The motor was sold. New owner took it apart for inspection. Crank was .010" under with standard mains. My feeling is a stuck relief valve. If there was a missing plug wouldn't there be an extra left over during the build? That was something I would have noticed.
Doug
 
With that amount of scoring in the pump (picture of the rotor would be nice) the relief valve sealing surface needs to be checked. Usually if the machined surface is chewed up the oil psi gauge reads low but twitchy. Any further testing should be done with a drill motor rather than running the engine.
 
Well, this is just one of the bad mainbearings...... deep grooves and matching peaks on the crank. And on the bottom of the oilpan there was like a grey sludge with something that felt like sand grains......... Something went straight to hell right from the beginning.... at least i know why the oil pressure was bad :elmer::wetting:
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With that amount of scoring in the pump (picture of the rotor would be nice) the relief valve sealing surface needs to be checked. Usually if the machined surface is chewed up the oil psi gauge reads low but twitchy. Any further testing should be done with a drill motor rather than running the engine.
Yeah missed that one, i can say it didnt look good haha
 
First if its hydraulic lifters with zero pressure why aren't the clattering? I'd try another gauge. I agree on the pump gears not being the issue. My racecar car has had broken valve springs run thru the pump. The pump gears were way worse. Held 65 psi with no issues. How is the relief valve? Pull the nut at the end of the pump. The valve should pull out easily. I've had small pieces of debris stick them wide open, causing no pressure. As far as bearing clearance. My son bought a 340 Duster. Ran 13.30, no issues. Sounded fine 45 psi oil pressure. The motor was sold. New owner took it apart for inspection. Crank was .010" under with standard mains. My feeling is a stuck relief valve. If there was a missing plug wouldn't there be an extra left over during the build? That was something I would have noticed.
Doug

Main bearings shot.
 
Was there a new cam and lifters installed? How do they look?
 
Possible the relief valve is stuck open. Then it was run with no pressure/flow damaging the bearings. Or it was built in a sandbox. Were any of the engine parts sandblasted? Intake, pan, valve covers? My machine shop buddy always told me "no better cleaner in the world than hot oil".
Doug
 
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