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440 headgasket to lower compression

I doubt you have 10:1 compression
I used the same pistons (.030 to your .060)
They were like .020 in the hole
With those 906 heads you probably have like 9:1 compression
My engine has 10.7:1 but to get there I had to use Eddy 75cc Aluminum Heads and a .027 Cometic gasket (.047 Quench)

I personally would be looking at timing
whats the total timing?
How much advance and how much total
Do you run a vacuum advance? what happens if you disconnect it?
 
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Definitely want the heat crossover blocked with fuel injection.

Without taking it apart there is no way of knowing if the heads have been milled, and what thickness head gasket is in there.

If the pistons are only down .020 the it will be near or over 10:1. I've never seen one that was not. What did you have .080 head gaskets to be at 9:1

Have you had a valve cover off to see head casting numbers yet?
 
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I'm pretty sure that if he has 906s, or the later variants, the combustion chamber cc's will be 88-90, unless it's been seriously milled.
My closed chamber maxwedge are over 82.
75-79 might be right, IF it has 915s on it.

Edit: the BEST pump gas available in california is 91, with around 10% alcohol in it. 93 would be a dream.
Then the CR is much less!
Wow... 91 is max? Yet another reason i don't live in CA :) But, they do have ethanol at the pump... if I had access to it at the pump, I'd convert to it for sure.
 
I just ran across the cam card o.p.posted.
THERE IS NO F-ING WAY, it should detonate with a 244 at .050 cam, with 9 or 10 to 1 compression!
There HAS to be another explanation. Cam advanced one tooth. Timing at 60° . Insane vacuum advance. Insanely lean. Something!
If it ran the same with a carb, I'd look at the timing, VERY carefully! Cam timing and distributor!
 
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Seeing the poster has tried just about everything and nothing seems to help I would be curious about one thing. The distributor. What distributor are you running? Has the phasing been checked? Pickup polarity? If in fact it is detonation there should be a way to tune it out.
 
Then the CR is much less!
Wow... 91 is max? Yet another reason i don't live in CA :) But, they do have ethanol at the pump... if I had access to it at the pump, I'd convert to it for sure.
We do have E 85 available. My best friend runs her flex fuel Expedition on it. Mileage suffers, but E-85 is only about $3.50 a gallon, instead of $5. A friend runs his 10 second 67 GTX on it and has to leave it idling in the lanes, with the fan off, on a 75 degree day, to get it warm enough to run.
If all-out performance is a goal, and cheap fuel with great octane rating is available without fail (always gonna be questionable soon, in california) building an engine from ground up to run on E-85 is a good idea, especially if a power adder is in the mix.
 
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Seeing the poster has tried just about everything and nothing seems to help I would be curious about one thing. The distributor. What distributor are you running? Has the phasing been checked? Pickup polarity? If in fact it is detonation there should be a way to tune it out.
not to beat a dead horse, but i posted earlier about timing questions i had. I seems like a timing issue to me and that's easy to get wrong with a sniper controlled hyperspark - if he's actually running a hyperspark
 
If the pistons are only down .020 the it will be near or over 10:1. I've never seen one that was not. What did you have .080 head gaskets to be at 9:1
Ive never seen one that was. Of course, details matter. I get <9.5:1 with the following:

0.020” down
7cc valve notches
90 cc head
0.040” gasket
 
Something is off here. First, and I may have missed it, but what is the exact gas you're running? What octane rating and how much ethanol is advertised?

Anyway, this shouldn't be pinging... I have more CR and piston psi than you and run on pump 93 all day long in the middle of hot North Carolina summers.

Let's do some math....

Let's assume you have a stock block with a deck height of 10.725 (big assumption), a stock stroke (3.750), and stock rod length (6.768). Those pistons have a compression height of 2.061. Granted, it's just math and not real measured numbers from the block, that means the piston is 0.021 in the hole... good.

I'm sure someone will correct me, but the 906 has a 79cc (also listed at 80 and 88. So not sure honestly...). Let's go with 79cc. Let's assume the builder threw on a very common Fel-Pro head gasket that has a compression thickness of 0.039.

Crunch the numbers and you get 10.18:1 CR, which is right at what you said from the beginning... so the numbers check out. But what doesn't check out is the pinging... that is not a high CR.

Let's go back to timing.. you mentioned using a Sniper for timing, so I'm assuming a Hyperspark for IGN box? If so, did you use the phaser tool for the distributor install and set the sniper to lock out the timing to check it? If you did... then I'm going to assume you're not dealing with a timing issue - which is what this problem sounds like if I'm honest. If the distributor isn't phased and the sniper GCF doesn't have the correct ignition reference angle set for the phase, you could be putting way over 50* of timing. I know you said 10* off the mark for setting, but just confirming you used the phase cap tool, that you locked out the timing control when you sync'ed the ignition to the sniper with a light, and the ignition reference angle is set correctly. (As a side note, sync'ing with less than 15* can cause issues, that's why Holley recommends 15*) And, importantly, that you have the right setting in the GCF for the reference angle (which if memory serves it's 57.5, but you definitely want to check that)... I'm not trying to tell you something you already know, but 90% of sniper/hyperspark issues are improper timing being set/configured.

Others already talked about hot spots... perhaps put a bore scope in the spark plug hole and look for one. If you're pining at 10.1:1 and it's a hot spot, you'll definitely see it.

Beyond what others have said... I've seen a couple super odd things cause pinging noises... like a bad wrist pin hammering the cylinder wall. A way to find that without taking the motor apart is unplug #1, drive around... plug back in and unplug #2, drive around... repeat. See if it's stops pining on a given cylinder.

I'm thinking timing... or something mechanical. OR... you're running the worst gas on the planet, which is pretty likely because of where you live.

Sidebar... Since at cruise it doesn't ping... I'm assuming you're AFR is in a good range... generally between 12.4 and 14.3? Or is it higher than 15+ when it pings?

10.18:1 is high compression for pump gas in CA with a mild cam.

Need to bring that down to 9.5 or less.

I’m at 9.7:1 measured/cc’d with aluminum heads and quench. Edge of pinging on real hot days mid range cruise up mountain overpass
 
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Probably a combo of issues. Those pistons won't work with open chamber heads and pump gas. Probably oil/water getting into the combustion chamber too. Doesn't take much to push the engine into detonation.
 
We do have E 85 available. My best friend runs her flex fuel Expedition on it. Mileage suffers, but E-85 is only about $3.50 a gallon, instead of $5. A friend runs his 10 second 67 GTX on it and has to leave it idling in the lanes, with the fan off, on a 75 degree day, to get it warm enough to run.
If all-out performance is a goal, and cheap fuel with great octane rating is available without fail (always gonna be questionable soon, in california) building an engine from ground up to run on E-85 is a good idea, especially if a power adder is in the mix.
that's awesome. If I had access to E85 like that I would have a ton more compression. Yeah, I have 93, but what I want is over a 100...:) And definitely put on boost...
 
Everyone will tell you 190-200* running temp is ok. Not in my book. Anything you can do to cool the AIR entering the com chamber, & keep it cool until ign occurs, will help with detonation. I can drive my GTO on a 40C+*[ whatever that is in F* ] day & it will NEVER detonate. 9.9:1 CR, 91 octane [ your 87-88 ], factory iron heads. NGK '4' spark plugs. I spent a looooooooooot of time improving the cooling system & setting up cold air induction. Smaller w/pump pulley, fan blades a tight fit the shroud so that the shroud actually pulls air, alum 2 row rad, Edel Victor water pump. 180* stat. Engine runs just over 180 [ estimated 183 ] under all weather & driving conditions.

I'll bet the det is not as bad on a cold, wet night....
 
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