'65 Satellite 440 Swap Rookie Questions

[65PlymSatellite]

These guys are giving you good tips & WELCOME!
1. Run a 26" wide radiator
2. Yes, conversion motor mounts
3. will need new exhaust manifolds...headers? & I suggest dual exhaust for sure.
4. Stock 440 will be fine...maybe a small cam/lifter/springs + headers + 650-750 cfm carburetor
5. IF you have no bolts in the back of the rear end (8-3/4"), that will work GREAT
6. Likely need a slightly different length driveshaft.

Everyone here will help you a lot.....and we LOVE pictures

 

[65PlymSatellite]

These guys are giving you good tips & WELCOME!
1. Run a 26" wide radiator
2. Yes, conversion motor mounts
3. will need new exhaust manifolds...headers? & I suggest dual exhaust for sure.
4. Stock 440 will be fine...maybe a small cam/lifter/springs + headers + 650-750 cfm carburetor
5. IF you have no bolts in the back of the rear end (8-3/4"), that will work GREAT
6. Likely need a slightly different length driveshaft.

Everyone here will help you a lot.....and we LOVE pictures

 

[65PlymSatellite]

View attachment 623326 View attachment 623327 View attachment 623328 View attachment 623329 View attachment 623330 View attachment 623331 View attachment 623332

 

[65PlymSatellite]

Hard to read I know

 

[65PlymSatellite]

440 engine I picked up

 

[493 Mike]

I was able to find a Big Block 1965 727 before I picked up the 440. I should be able to keep the original shifter with cable assembly, right? Will a simple rebuild work with the 440 horsepower output, or is there some kind of "performance" rebuild kit I should know about?

A good rebuild with premium clutches and a shift kit ( I recommend Transgo ) will handle more horsepower than I believe you're aiming for. The only upgrade you may want is swapping in a later model input shaft which is larger and opens up a huge selection of aftermarket torque converters.
Mike

 

[khryslerkid]

Welcome 65Plym!

Nice looking ride you have there

Looks like some members are throwing a lot of advice your way. Don't become overwhelmed with too much info all at once. Take your time and keep things simple. It will all come about with time.

My two cents, I'm using a 22" radiator, aluminium, two row, 1" tubes and it cools my 440 just fine. There's a lot of info already documented here in other threads. You can find a lot of what you're looking for just by using the search option.

Good luck with your car and keep us posted.

 

[BBishere2]

Welcome aboard!

I’ve got a 22” BeCool alum radiator on my ‘65. Fan is about 3/4” away from the core and there’s a pusher fan on the front - only need it when in town with heavy stop and go traffic. No fan shroud on it yet.

Forgot to mention that I bought the aluminum water pump housing with a high volume water pump from Mancini Racing and installed a Robert Shaw type 180 degree thermostat as well - those flow more coolant than the Stant type thermostats.

BeCool is a good radiator but I wouldn’t buy another one - can get an aluminum radiator far cheaper.

 

[65PlymSatellite]

FYI, I mounted the 26" radiator in my '65. Radiator too wide for the core support.but added cooling from the fins. Worked great for many years.

What do you mean “added cooling from the fins”?

 

[wyrmrider]

the fins are behind the core support but they are there and get some flow
on the trans
I second going to the later input shaft which also means the clutch housing and later pump is easy swap
I put a brazed and bearings converter in my 65 413 cable shift- PITA
should havechanged the shaft
remember you need the brass screen gasket with a pencil hole sized hole in it to feed the rear pump- transgo has them-
I have a new one I'll send you if you PM an address
I just saw it- now where did I put it and why did I even keep it???
I can ask them for any special instructions
Get the reprogramming kit not just the shift kit
use ATF 4+ -- much better than the original oil which is no longer even available
If you have to run new cooler lines use 1/2 inch oil proof hose

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Welcome 65Plym!

Nice looking ride you have there

Looks like some members are throwing a lot of advice your way. Don't become overwhelmed with too much info all at once. Take your time and keep things simple. It will all come about with time.

My two cents, I'm using a 22" radiator, aluminium, two row, 1" tubes and it cools my 440 just fine. There's a lot of info already documented here in other threads. You can find a lot of what you're looking for just by using the search option.

Good luck with your car and keep us posted. View attachment 623390

Sure enough.....IF you use the "racing style" radiators with the 1" to 1-1/2" aluminum tubes (typically just 2-rows) then you don't need a 26" wide radiator since they cool so well....but they are expensive. I'm just suggesting 26" wide for a "stock style" (factory or aftermarket aluminum) radiator with 1/2" tubes.

 

[65PlymSatellite]

the fins are behind the core support but they are there and get some flow
on the trans
I second going to the later input shaft which also means the clutch housing and later pump is easy swap
I put a brazed and bearings converter in my 65 413 cable shift- PITA
should havechanged the shaft
remember you need the brass screen gasket with a pencil hole sized hole in it to feed the rear pump- transgo has them-
I have a new one I'll send you if you PM an address
I just saw it- now where did I put it and why did I even keep it???
I can ask them for any special instructions
Get the reprogramming kit not just the shift kit
use ATF 4+ -- much better than the original oil which is no longer even available
If you have to run new cooler lines use 1/2 inch oil proof hose

I definitely will, thanks!

 

[65PlymSatellite]

8 3/4 rear ends are pretty easy to identify. First of all, they have no bolts on the back. What will your budget be for the build?
View attachment 623225

Looks like I DO have the 8 3/4" rear, but it's not a "Sure-Grip" as the rear tires rotate the opposite way when in the air.

 

[65PlymSatellite]

the fins are behind the core support but they are there and get some flow
on the trans
I second going to the later input shaft which also means the clutch housing and later pump is easy swap
I put a brazed and bearings converter in my 65 413 cable shift- PITA
should havechanged the shaft
remember you need the brass screen gasket with a pencil hole sized hole in it to feed the rear pump- transgo has them-
I have a new one I'll send you if you PM an address
I just saw it- now where did I put it and why did I even keep it???
I can ask them for any special instructions
Get the reprogramming kit not just the shift kit
use ATF 4+ -- much better than the original oil which is no longer even available
If you have to run new cooler lines use 1/2 inch oil proof hose

inbox is full...

 

[Bicylindrico]

Welcome aboard!

I’ve got a 22” BeCool alum radiator on my ‘65. Fan is about 3/4” away from the core and there’s a pusher fan on the front - only need it when in town with heavy stop and go traffic. No fan shroud on it yet.

BeCool is a good radiator but I wouldn’t buy another one - can get an aluminum radiator far cheaper.

I too have the BeCool radiator in mine but it was there when I bought the car. I have no experience with any other radiator but will say I am VERY pleased with mine and my engine has been a steady 175-180 with outside temps in the upper 80's. My setup came with dual suction fans run on a toggle switch which I will reconfigure with an auto setup. I also added a 10psi cap since the temps were so easy to regulate and it never seems to build even that much pressure.

 

[wyrmrider]

inbox is full...

I'll figure out how to fix that inbox or even how to find it tonight

 

[dvw]

If the 273 currently runs a 727 the driveshaft will be correct. If it's a 904 you will need a new front yoke and shorten the shaft aprox 4". A late pump and input shaft (67 and up) is a good move if the trans is to be rebuilt. Otherwise converter selection is limited. 273 K frame and BB K frame are the same. Just need BB mounts and engine brackets. Fan to core support clearance us limited with the factory engine location. You will notice that the core support is notched on the drivers side. Also notice the factory radiator is twisted forward on the left side. Fan selection is limited. Existing shift cables will work. Even the stock torsion bars will work for normal driving. Though you may want to add a sway bar to control body roll. Afco makes a bolt on unit.
Doug

 

[66Satellite47]

I agree with others that have suggested the '66 - later style 727 in lieu of the '65 rear pump/cable shift style. Lots of small things get easier & have much better parts availability & options. When I bought my '65 Coronet switched from 4spd to '65 727 & quickly built a '66-70 style. The '65 version is easy to sell. Consider your "main" use of the car (purely street, some strip use or drag use) before picking your parts packages.

 

[65PlymSatellite]

I agree with others that have suggested the '66 - later style 727 in lieu of the '65 rear pump/cable shift style. Lots of small things get easier & have much better parts availability & options. When I bought my '65 Coronet switched from 4spd to '65 727 & quickly built a '66-70 style. The '65 version is easy to sell. Consider your "main" use of the car (purely street, some strip use or drag use) before picking your parts packages.

*Dumb Question Alert*

Since the '65 has a cable shifter, if I were to use a later non-cable shift style 727 trans, would I have to cut up my floor board and transmission hump? There is currently no hole for the gear selector in the floor pan. I've read that the B&M Quicksilver shifter and cable would work, is that right?

 

[66Satellite47]

Depends on which shifter you pick to use where a hole needs to be and some mounting brackets may need to be fabricated. The existing cable hole MAY work, depends on the selected shifter & cable combination. The floor board & transmission hump not require modification.