66 Charger - input if you have any?

[1967coronet]

Nice looking Charger project. Is it mouse free ? If it is the original interior , carpet, ect. should clean up nice from what I can see.
Worry about the mechanic end first. Paint and body last.
What ever your budget is ........... double it.
Hope you guys are still friends when its over. Its a rare pair of buds that can make a deal like that work.
Best of luck and I do like that car.

 

[REcharge]

How old are the hoses, just had a 65 newyorker need all hoses, pedal was rock hard

We can't know for sure but they look like they've been replaced and not the originals. Same we get "brakes" about 1/4 down.

 

[Moparnocar]

We can't know for sure but they look like they've been replaced and not the originals. Same we get "brakes" about 1/4 down.

Crack the lines before the hoses, see if it floors. If so, bad hoses. They collapse inside

 

[REcharge]

Nice looking Charger project. Is it mouse free ? If it is the original interior , carpet, ect. should clean up nice from what I can see.
Worry about the mechanic end first. Paint and body last.
What ever your budget is ........... double it.
Hope you guys are still friends when its over. Its a rare pair of buds that can make a deal like that work.
Best of luck and I do like that car.

Yes mouse free. The inside was done new for the most part there still some bits that need touched up. I don't think it's the original items. For instance the head liner looks literally like it just came off the line.

 

[REcharge]

Secured an engine and transmission today pulled from a 74. Hoping we don't run into a lot of snags there I'm sure they are bound to pop up though.

 

[John Dwyer]

Quit now to minimize your losses. Buy a nice car and keep up with it …. that will scratch your itch. Classic muscle is really cheap now. The only reason I am saying this is that you will find that it will be a 10-year learning curve to get up to speed in the nuances of restoring a classic Mopar
(I own 12).

JD

 

[Tim Ziegler]

Be aware when considering a motor home motor. The objective was the motor home motor is durable, don't overheat , don't ping and gets some mileage. Some of those motors have small valve heads, low comp, dead cam and a gear drive on the front. They were 100 less horsepower

 

[YY1]

some MH drivetrains also have short output shaft transmissions and/or transbrakes.

can have funky water pumps as well.


...but don't quit. That looks like a fairly solid car.

If it were me, I'd keep it.

In fact, if you were closer.......

It would be a nice stable mate for my YY1 Coronet.

 

[Tim Ziegler]

The motor in the last pic (with headers) has a unique air cleaner housing. Taller than normal 318. Is it truck application do you know?

 

[Moparnocar]

Yeah, I just noticed, that's a small block, trans different than a big block too

 

[halojumper]

My friend and I have started a project together. I am as it were mostly clueless when it comes to the motor head department. On the other side of that is the completely clueless motor head that can not function on the internet or any other tech - aka my friend lol.

Our 440 engine and 727 transmission "need" to be completely rebuilt. He thinks our engine had mud wasps making nests in it 0o... we haven't torn into it yet.

Anywho the question I have is there any good options for engines from other vehicles that would be easy to swap in / would save us money in the long term for a potentially expensive rebuild... I do not yet know if our engine is the original from the car and we kind of doubt that it is.
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First of all you better be detail oriented. You need to take a lot of pictures, take notes. You will need a service manual, more than one maybe. Everything you take off that car will have to be bagged, and tagged even a small note for what it's function is. Your budget, what time line will it take. It will not be easy. Your determination, and mental toughness will be a determining factor. What part of the project do you have to farm out, and the things you can do yourself. Do not be mesmerised by cheap parts prices, quickie short cuts which you will pay for in the long run. Some people are blessed that they can take a car apart, and put all the various fasteners, and parts into a pile, and get it back together. One more thing the '66, '67 B body parts are sometimes hard to get. They are not as popular as the '68, and up cars. Even though my car is a '67 b body, I bought the fastener reference manual. Some stuff for '68 to '70 will work on '66, '67 b bodies, but not all. Be prepared to be discouraged sometimes. Wars are not bloodless. In the end it depends how deep you want to get into it, a driver, or full on resto. Like other people have said. Don't go in thinking you will make a ton of money if you flip it. Rehabbing a house is probably cheaper haha.

 

[YY1]

Rehabbing a house is probably cheaper haha.

Definitely more profitable as a percentage gain versus cost plus investment.

...although a little more tricky to execute up front.

 

[REcharge]

The motor in the last pic (with headers) has a unique air cleaner housing. Taller than normal 318. Is it truck application do you know?

It's from a 74 charger by all accounts. It does say 74 on the tag printed on the motor listing possible motor applications.

First of all you better be detail oriented. You need to take a lot of pictures, take notes. You will need a service manual, more than one maybe. Everything you take off that car will have to be bagged, and tagged even a small note for what it's function is. Your budget, what time line will it take. It will not be easy. Your determination, and mental toughness will be a determining factor. What part of the project do you have to farm out, and the things you can do yourself. Do not be mesmerised by cheap parts prices, quickie short cuts which you will pay for in the long run. Some people are blessed that they can take a car apart, and put all the various fasteners, and parts into a pile, and get it back together. One more thing the '66, '67 B body parts are sometimes hard to get. They are not as popular as the '68, and up cars. Even though my car is a '67 b body, I bought the fastener reference manual. Some stuff for '68 to '70 will work on '66, '67 b bodies, but not all. Be prepared to be discouraged sometimes. Wars are not bloodless. In the end it depends how deep you want to get into it, a driver, or full on resto. Like other people have said. Don't go in thinking you will make a ton of money if you flip it. Rehabbing a house is probably cheaper haha.

Do you have a good link for finding available reference manuals?

And thanks for all the advice feel free to chime in more as you see fit. I'm not discouraged still I think I can accomplish a running car if not perfect with the budget I setup.

 

[Tim Bell]

I would keep it the same color. You might get away with not having to do the jams and engine compartment if the paint is in good shape.

Look into a local Maaco. If you give them a stripped shell they might be willing to do paint and bodywork in the $5K range.

 

[halojumper]

It's from a 74 charger by all accounts. It does say 74 on the tag printed on the motor listing possible motor applications.



Do you have a good link for finding available reference manuals?

And thanks for all the advice feel free to chime in more as you see fit. I'm not discouraged still I think I can accomplish a running car if not perfect with the budget I setup.

My book is the plymouth vehicle restoration reference guide, guide to b body fasteners 1968 1970 volume 3 version ten. By Byron Fettig, and David Wise.like I said use this manual carefully some fasteners will work on 66 to 67 B bodies. It's not like there were radical changes to fasteners between 66 to 70. You can find all kinds of auto publications on line. It's just a matter of finding what's pertinent to your car. You will run into all kinds of stuff. If you are going to run a big block you should have a minimum of a 7290 rear pinion yoke, and slip yoke for your transmission/ driveshaft. I believe small block cars had a 7260 rear pinion yoke. If anybody knows more about this jump in, but don't ambush me if I might be wrong on something( I got the aforementioned info from Denneys driveshaft, and Doctor Diff)

 

[halojumper]

Quit now to minimize your losses. Buy a nice car and keep up with it …. that will scratch your itch. Classic muscle is really cheap now. The only reason I am saying this is that you will find that it will be a 10-year learning curve to get up to speed in the nuances of restoring a classic Mopar I learned a lesson about that, but I don't regret it. A poor condition car may be appealing because it's cheap. The sucking sound with the same decibel level as a fully rotated 747 was the money being sucked out of my wallet. Fools rush in.. haha.
(I own 12).

JD

 

[Tim Bell]

Rust! Get it on a lift and check all the usual spots.
No sense in spending dollars to make it look pretty and run fast if your foot goes through the floo.
Engine: take out the plugs and check if it is froze up. if it turns over by hand you are in luck
Get a piggy back fur tank and a fresh battery. See if she spins over. if starter sticks give a few whacks. If not you are in luck. Put the plugs back in and check for spark.
if you have spark then hook up to piggy back fuel and give it a go. Have a good fire extinguisher handy do this outside so if it burns it won’t take the house or shop.
Dont. Ask me how Iknow this. If it starts you are in luck.
No sense in wasting money on new oil before this. If none on stick put some in prior to start try.
It gets expensive from here on out

 

[REcharge]

Rust! Get it on a lift and check all the usual spots.
No sense in spending dollars to make it look pretty and run fast if your foot goes through the floo.
Engine: take out the plugs and check if it is froze up. if it turns over by hand you are in luck
Get a piggy back fur tank and a fresh battery. See if she spins over. if starter sticks give a few whacks. If not you are in luck. Put the plugs back in and check for spark.
if you have spark then hook up to piggy back fuel and give it a go. Have a good fire extinguisher handy do this outside so if it burns it won’t take the house or shop.
Dont. Ask me how Iknow this. If it starts you are in luck.
No sense in wasting money on new oil before this. If none on stick put some in prior to start try.
It gets expensive from here on out

It's pretty rust free for the age.

What are the typical spots on these to check? I'll go take pictures of those specifically.

Foot for sure isn't going to fall through the floor though I think that was more of a joke. =)

 

[Tim Bell]

It's pretty rust free for the age.

What are the typical spots on these to check? I'll go take pictures of those specifically.

Foot for sure isn't going to fall through the floor though I think that was more of a joke. =)

 

[halojumper]

It's pretty rust free for the age.

What are the typical spots on these to check? I'll go take pictures of those specifically.

Foot for sure isn't going to fall through the floor though I think that was more of a joke. =)

What part of the country did the car come from ? To save yourself a headache if it came with a small block stick with that. Especially if it's your first car. Just saying. I don't want to come across like Drill Instructor Hartman.