• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

71 Charger Superbee Tribute/Restomod Build

The one thing I really like about the Aeromotive tank in the foam basket they use. I thought about trying something similar but Aeromotive doesn't sell just the foam I don't think (they do have an extension deal).
 
I received the wrench that allows me to take the big square nut off the Hydroboost unit. Now I can begin to get this side of things moving. I need to mock up the brake assembly/system so that I know where my lines are going to be, specifically I need to know where the long line running to the rear brakes is going to need to be in the engine compartment. I still need a proportioning valve and I am thinking I am just going to use an adjustable Wilwood one to make it simple.

The bag contains banjo fittings for the HB unit that will then take -6 line/ends.

View attachment 1419673

View attachment 1419674

View attachment 1419675
Looks good and now you can actually see what’s going on inside that booster. Like I said before, this can’t be too complicated because it’s hydraulic and there’s fewer variables.
 
The one thing I really like about the Aeromotive tank in the foam basket they use. I thought about trying something similar but Aeromotive doesn't sell just the foam I don't think (they do have an extension deal).
The basket is a simple and efficient way to help reduce fuel sling and sucking air when going down the road. There are lots of ways to do it. But that’s another reason I got the tank complete.
 
So I spent some time working on the HB system and the fuel system today.

For the HB system I was able to get the rear adapter made up (actually just mocked up currently). I am waiting for the MC adapter before I finalize anything.

IMG_6818.jpg


IMG_6823.jpg


IMG_6824.jpg


IMG_6829.jpg
 
The fuel system was less successful, basically I just spent some time thinking about where/how to put the EFI pump. Originally I wanted to put in the center at the front of the tank but the sending unit is going to be in the way, so I looked at a few more spots and basically ruled out every place other than the center. So my current plan is to put the pump in the center but cut a large U shaped channel down the center of the tank so that the pump can live there and the lines can come out the center. I will then put a trap door into the trunk pan to allow access.

IMG_6834.jpg


IMG_6837.jpg


IMG_6838.jpg
 
The fuel system was less successful, basically I just spent some time thinking about where/how to put the EFI pump. Originally I wanted to put in the center at the front of the tank but the sending unit is going to be in the way, so I looked at a few more spots and basically ruled out every place other than the center. So my current plan is to put the pump in the center but cut a large U shaped channel down the center of the tank so that the pump can live there and the lines can come out the center. I will then put a trap door into the trunk pan to allow access.

View attachment 1421035

View attachment 1421036

View attachment 1421037
This very issue is one of the main reasons I went for the complete tank and the sending unit is mounted to the side of the pump/basket assembly with the mount bolted to the mounting ring. It works but I didn’t want to have to figure it out along with the pump. I can see what pics I have that may show that.
 
Maybe these pictures will help. Looking inside from the filler neck opening you can see the float and it’s hanger beside the foam bucket. I wasn’t thinking about this scenario when I was taking pictures….lol. Maybe you can get some ideas from these. The 1st pic is the replacement sender that came with the warranty pump but it’s a spare and I used it to calibrate the meter match.

8F1F2270-FD6B-43B1-B145-EF0914FA4258.jpeg


A7393094-29A2-45FD-A88D-183006D99779.jpeg


599069F9-2D15-4C62-9211-B1D39E4D2B52.jpeg


38F822F0-7F51-4D0F-8B1A-040A34DE487E.jpeg


B0FEFD53-D1A6-4A95-BC34-0C9D70178EBC.jpeg


7196DB72-6183-4200-98C7-39CE10D76EE1.jpeg


65D0B571-ED4B-4DC3-A009-3F77C997959C.jpeg
 
Do you know how the float assembly is hung? There must be a bracket or something inside the tank.

I am not thinking about using a float style sending unit or maybe even a floatless style. The float style are cheap and plentiful, however the floatless are said to be more stable.
 
The float is on a small metal bracket that has screws that go through the metal ring on the top of the tank, same ring the cover screws go into for the fancy cover plate. There are numerous types of senders out there. Factory is not going to work so it’s a matter of finding one that works with your gauge.
 
I need to decide between the float style or a floatless style.
Either should be adaptable. Maybe you can gut the factory sender and run fuel and power through it like the Aeromotive does. Looks close to factory. Since you have to do some tinkering anyway. You will get it sorted out. Some of the floats are fairly small and likely don’t have to be centered in the tank. Just another thought.
 
Last edited:
I am going to use a float less sending unit I believe, I need to get some measurements and then order one. I will cap off the original sending unit opening.

I need to figure out what the 4 nipples on the side of the tank accomplish. I know they are for the evap system but I need to determine if 1 or more will act as a vent.
 
I am going to use a float less sending unit I believe, I need to get some measurements and then order one. I will cap off the original sending unit opening.

I need to figure out what the 4 nipples on the side of the tank accomplish. I know they are for the evap system but I need to determine if 1 or more will act as a vent.
I have those 4 nipples capped off at this point. My Charger is a 74 that had the hump and there were none of the original vent or vapor lines on my car. I am going to see how things work once I get the new gauge insert done. I have a loose fitting locking gas cap and that should vent pretty well.
The original tank was pretty much done anyway and the install was relatively easy.

40ECEB24-F59B-41D8-9BA0-0CB70786F81B.jpeg


7BC6E53D-A10F-4B7F-8A0F-E69907FA7153.jpeg


0BFBADA1-FFCE-4B94-8F26-853065C091C4.jpeg


C698CF9F-2834-4D64-A299-8C506ADE447C.jpeg


D995F2D8-FFC0-46C3-8CA3-FC345E698E5E.jpeg


C50D3DE1-B074-4604-B0A1-80F1C71A073D.jpeg


DED7024C-4ED4-4792-B94D-08BC103841C7.jpeg


12F269C8-2EB5-4D2A-9B57-B95D0D80F8C8.jpeg


5DE265A2-CA60-456A-B678-AB9296FB32EE.jpeg
 
@64fury74charger thanks for the pics. I didn't realize that the 74's had that bump. The 71's do not so I don't have to contend with that issue. I traded emails with Tanks Inc. about the 71-74 B bodies, they said that they were going to eventually offer tanks for them but it will be 4 or more years.

I have a plan and am committed now, I am going to use a floatless sending unit along with my Fitech 340 pump. I am going to use one or some of the nipples as the vent which I am going to run up into the area behind the drivers side rear tire, probably going to put a roll over vent there.

IMG_6841.jpg


IMG_6842.jpg


IMG_6843.jpg
 
@64fury74charger thanks for the pics. I didn't realize that the 74's had that bump. The 71's do not so I don't have to contend with that issue. I traded emails with Tanks Inc. about the 71-74 B bodies, they said that they were going to eventually offer tanks for them but it will be 4 or more years.

I have a plan and am committed now, I am going to use a floatless sending unit along with my Fitech 340 pump. I am going to use one or some of the nipples as the vent which I am going to run up into the area behind the drivers side rear tire, probably going to put a roll over vent there.

View attachment 1421635

View attachment 1421636

View attachment 1421637
That sounds like a good idea and everything should play nice together. Aeromotive only has the 71-72 tank and I figured it would swap into the same space as the basic physical dimensions are the same. Please keep us posted on your project.
 
Ive temporarily changed my focus to the steering wheel, I have thought quite a bit about what steering wheel I want to use.

Here are the stock options back in 71

65130000953__F8BA2946-B184-4452-B179-DEDD971E2646.jpg
 
I have all of those except the "standard" which I would not use anyway. The problem is that I am not sure I want to use any of them.

S81: This is the most common one you see and I am not really a fan.
S62: This was only offered with a tilt wheel although I am not sure why, I have 2 of them
S83: This is the Rim Blow, I have one that needs some work but they are huge not to mention that I would have to replace the rim blow or develop something else (which is possible)
S84: This is the tuff wheel which I like but already have in my 70 Challenger and have used many times over the years.

4020FTX-1.jpg


IMG_6136.jpg


IMG_6137.jpg


MW752_main-02.jpg


s-l400.jpg
 
Last edited:
This brings me to the aftermarket, I just ordered one of these which is essentially a tuff wheel style wheel but with a slight more modern center (didn't say better). I have something like this in my Cuda which I like, but as I said I have one already in a vehicle so I am not sure I want to put one in the Charger as well.

stw23_1.11.jpg
 
And this brings me to the wheel I really want... LOL Unfortunately they are $500 +/- which I just cannot get behind.

BLK29409.jpg
 
Tough wheel all the way.
The tilt columns were GM made, right? I always assumed there was something special in them that required that 2spoke. You see them a lot in c bodies
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top