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73 Roadrunner 340 Auto

Blocked with the long board and found a few low/high spots and slight curves I thought were straight. So I will spray another coat of high build. Picking up the paint on Wednesday and took the following week off. So, unless something goes all to ****, should see color on or about Thanksgiving.
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By Thanksgiving, NOT. As usual some thing came up. Sprayed the high build and blocked again. Found one spot that was still low. That delay messed up all those great plans. Took care of that and back on track. Just have to clean the shop, drop the plastic, put the fans in the windows, install the extra heaters, and wait for a day without rain. Looks like this Sunday as the temps should be around 50 degrees and only a 10% chance of rain.
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Looks professional! Good luck with the weather and the painting!
 
Had family and friends stop by so I didn't get as far as I wanted to, but it was worth it. I can spray just about any day, but the times I can spend with friends and family are getting harder and harder to come by. Soooo, I can't afford a chiller for my air lines so I go old school and use a wort chiller and a cooler full of ice water followed by two water separators plus a moisture trap at the gun (just in case) . Works great and I can unhook it when I don't need it. Once I started spraying the seal coat I found a small group of pin holes that I missed somehow (maybe filled with dust, IDK) so I had to go back and fix these. When I was done it was 2100 hours and I leave for work at 0445 hours on Monday so I pulled the plug for the evening and popped open a beer.

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When I was done it was 2100 hours and I leave for work at 0445 hours on Monday so I pulled the plug for the evening and popped open a beer.
Beer kept in the same cooler?!? :rofl:

OK, seriously, forgive my dumb question: I don't even understand what that rig is and why it is needed. I am not a painter (although I feel like I need to start), but would love to start understanding some of the stuff I need to do a decent paint job.

Thanks and keep up the good work!

Hawk
 
Actually a really good question. So here is my short answer (not): As the air is compressed it get super hot and hot air holds more moisture than cold air. Hence the drain on the bottom of the tank. Most people put a moisture trap right near the the compressor tank outlet. That is actually not the best place as the air is still quite hot (assuming almost constant operation or rapid on and off cycles). Anyway, the water separator does what it can and removes the moisture from the hot/warm air coming from the tank. Now if you are running a spray gun after a 100' of hose, the air gets a chance to cool down while moving through the hose. Cool air hold less moisture so water drops out. You notice it when running a DA or a grinder that uses a lot of air. Water starts to spray out of the tool's air discharge. Not the best for the tool but mostly annoying. But if you are spraying paint it causes a huge problem. A few drops of water trying to mix with your paint can cause solvent pops. Then there is the pressure drop issue at the tool/spray gun. As the air expands to a lower pressure, it becomes cold (based on the Joule-Thomson Effect) and its ability to retain moisture is reduced. The moisture is released from the air in the form of fog. Not good when trying to lay down paint. Back to the Wort Chiller. The delivered air is run through the chiller and cooled to a temp below what it will ever be in the hose or when released at the spray gun. The two separators remove the moisture from this ice cold air (as cold as it will ever get). Once out of the chiller the air can only warm up, and warm air holds more moisture; so, the warmer air getting to my spray gun has no water to give up. I use the moisture trap/dryer/filter at my spray gun just in case I fill both traps at the tank before I notice. Problem solved!
 
Actually a really good question. So here is my short answer (not): As the air is compressed it get super hot and hot air holds more moisture than cold air. Hence the drain on the bottom of the tank. Most people put a moisture trap right near the the compressor tank outlet. That is actually not the best place as the air is still quite hot (assuming almost constant operation or rapid on and off cycles). Anyway, the water separator does what it can and removes the moisture from the hot/warm air coming from the tank. Now if you are running a spray gun after a 100' of hose, the air gets a chance to cool down while moving through the hose. Cool air hold less moisture so water drops out. You notice it when running a DA or a grinder that uses a lot of air. Water starts to spray out of the tool's air discharge. Not the best for the tool but mostly annoying. But if you are spraying paint it causes a huge problem. A few drops of water trying to mix with your paint can cause solvent pops. Then there is the pressure drop issue at the tool/spray gun. As the air expands to a lower pressure, it becomes cold (based on the Joule-Thomson Effect) and its ability to retain moisture is reduced. The moisture is released from the air in the form of fog. Not good when trying to lay down paint. Back to the Wort Chiller. The delivered air is run through the chiller and cooled to a temp below what it will ever be in the hose or when released at the spray gun. The two separators remove the moisture from this ice cold air (as cold as it will ever get). Once out of the chiller the air can only warm up, and warm air holds more moisture; so, the warmer air getting to my spray gun has no water to give up. I use the moisture trap/dryer/filter at my spray gun just in case I fill both traps at the tank before I notice. Problem solved!
And here I thought a Wort chiller was only good for cooling mash, cool idea.
 
Actually a really good question. So here is my short answer (not): As the air is compressed it get super hot and hot air holds more moisture than cold air. Hence the drain on the bottom of the tank. Most people put a moisture trap right near the the compressor tank outlet. That is actually not the best place as the air is still quite hot (assuming almost constant operation or rapid on and off cycles). Anyway, the water separator does what it can and removes the moisture from the hot/warm air coming from the tank. Now if you are running a spray gun after a 100' of hose, the air gets a chance to cool down while moving through the hose. Cool air hold less moisture so water drops out. You notice it when running a DA or a grinder that uses a lot of air. Water starts to spray out of the tool's air discharge. Not the best for the tool but mostly annoying. But if you are spraying paint it causes a huge problem. A few drops of water trying to mix with your paint can cause solvent pops. Then there is the pressure drop issue at the tool/spray gun. As the air expands to a lower pressure, it becomes cold (based on the Joule-Thomson Effect) and its ability to retain moisture is reduced. The moisture is released from the air in the form of fog. Not good when trying to lay down paint. Back to the Wort Chiller. The delivered air is run through the chiller and cooled to a temp below what it will ever be in the hose or when released at the spray gun. The two separators remove the moisture from this ice cold air (as cold as it will ever get). Once out of the chiller the air can only warm up, and warm air holds more moisture; so, the warmer air getting to my spray gun has no water to give up. I use the moisture trap/dryer/filter at my spray gun just in case I fill both traps at the tank before I notice. Problem solved!

Great explanation! Like you stated, I have a water separator near my tank and that is it.
Thank you for taking the time to explain the rig and the reasons for it!!! :thumbsup:
 
Now it is wearing Lemon Twist. Never goes out of style! Had a few issues. Would like to say no runs, no drips, and no errors but I can't. Final score was: 1 bug (don't know where he came from), 1 error (screw on brand new spray gun was not tight and came loose 3/4 of the way thru the clear coating), and 5 runs (yeah, yeah, I know but one is in the engine compartment, 1 is going to be covered by the bumper, 2 were caused by the screw coming loose, and 1 was just a brain fart on my part). They will all sand out so I am okay with the final result.

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I don't have a lot of room in the garage and it is too cold and wet to put the car outside, so I flipped it on its side to make room to do the remaining panels. All they need is some 400 grit love, a seal coat, and then the BC/CC. When everything is done I will switch to cut and buff but if the rockers are any indication there won't be much of that. Man, it is really hard to get a good close-up of a painted surface or I just suck at it!

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I don't have a set of door stands so I have to get a little creative to seal both sides of the door in one session.

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All work and no play. Doors are done but have been too busy to get to the fenders and valances. Soon I hope.

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Ho Ho Holy Yellow!! Just the hood and trunk lid to go.

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This is as good as I can get in the space I have to work in.

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This was the fender that took the tree

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I can't tell and I know just where to look so that is good enough for me!
 
Looks great!

Now to just add some complimentary black stripes and it will be 'bitchin!
 
Very nice work and great color too! I just painted my engine compartment but that's where I draw the line. I'll let the pro's do the rest. Keep up the good work!!!
 
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