And so it begins..... my new garage
- Thread starter 747mopar
- Start date
ws27
Well-Known Member
Those pumps are neat, I haven't installed many yet, I'm kind of old school when it comes to heating systems. I believe in the KISS principle. What did you do for hot water off the new boiler?
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I just soldered up a side arm heat exchanger. The boiler water runs threw a 2" copper pipe and heats a 3/4" copper pipe that runs threw it. I hear you on the KISS method but in this case where sophistication equals a lot less wood (work) used.... I said to heck with it. Advertised as using 30-50% less wood
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pretty simple design very cool. I plan on setting up my new house to accept an outside wood burner for an alternative when the money slows down in retirement. but now i'm trying to just get in the door.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I huge milestone finally underway, got my floor stained
. This has been the hold up with a lot of things seeings how you don't want to fill the garage knowing you'll have to pull it all back out for floor work.
Having a years worth of oil drops, paint dribbles, etc meant a very thorough cleaning... no fun. I spent a day scraping, sanding and scrubbing the floor with TSP and to my surprise zero oil spots showed up. I also found that puddling lacqer thinner over the oil stains seamed to raise the oil to the surface where it could be wiped up.
For the color Slate was the goal, I used black stain diluted with enough water to achieve the dark gray then would pour mutiple undiluted stains into the Black stain while wet to get a natural looking flow. In some areas the contrast was a bit much so a second coat of black was applied to soften the contrast but in the end I'm pretty stoked with the results. I do however have some blemishes to resolve, minor but still want them dealt with. How is the question, I've scraped, sanded and reapplied stain with no luck so I'm leaning towards just touching them up with paint or die before sealing? Waiting to seal it now, pictures to come.
Here's a bit of a sample, really hard to capture the entire floor since it has to be wet to really show the color but you'll get the idea.
A picture of it dry, this area has been improved on since so it looks even better now.
Here's a picture showing how the lacquer pulls the oil up, this is a stain that had already been scrubbed and you can still see oil being brought to the surface.
. This has been the hold up with a lot of things seeings how you don't want to fill the garage knowing you'll have to pull it all back out for floor work.Having a years worth of oil drops, paint dribbles, etc meant a very thorough cleaning... no fun. I spent a day scraping, sanding and scrubbing the floor with TSP and to my surprise zero oil spots showed up. I also found that puddling lacqer thinner over the oil stains seamed to raise the oil to the surface where it could be wiped up
.For the color Slate was the goal, I used black stain diluted with enough water to achieve the dark gray then would pour mutiple undiluted stains into the Black stain while wet to get a natural looking flow. In some areas the contrast was a bit much so a second coat of black was applied to soften the contrast but in the end I'm pretty stoked with the results. I do however have some blemishes to resolve, minor but still want them dealt with. How is the question, I've scraped, sanded and reapplied stain with no luck so I'm leaning towards just touching them up with paint or die before sealing? Waiting to seal it now, pictures to come.
Here's a bit of a sample, really hard to capture the entire floor since it has to be wet to really show the color but you'll get the idea.
A picture of it dry, this area has been improved on since so it looks even better now.
Here's a picture showing how the lacquer pulls the oil up, this is a stain that had already been scrubbed and you can still see oil being brought to the surface.
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747mopar
Well-Known Member
Also should note that although the boiler still isn't plumbed to the garage (no sense spending money now in April) I'm extremely happy with it. We'll see how it holds up but as far as function goes I couldn't be happier. Super easy to get a fire going, regulates burn time very well, supplies plenty of heat and is built very well. I loaded it half full Sunday afternoon so I go out to load it last night and it still has plenty of wood and it's still burning keeping the water 180 degrees!! That's insane, I'll get 3 days out of that load!
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747mopar
Well-Known Member
Got some ductwork questions, if you were to run duct along the ceiling what would be the best approach for a 32ft X 34ft area with 13ft a ceiling? They ripped out some nice duct at work so I snagged it up and now want it out of my way so I need to see if it will do the job. I've got 8X16 and 8X12 duct with 2 adapters to connect them. This will be on a 100K BTU furnace.
Would you run a duct down the center of both bays, down the exterior walls or just one down the center with vents going each way?
They recently installed BIG round duct at work that really looks nice that I'm liking too???
Would you run a duct down the center of both bays, down the exterior walls or just one down the center with vents going each way?
They recently installed BIG round duct at work that really looks nice that I'm liking too???
In our 48x75 shop with 14 foot sidewalls, I’ve got a 98,000 btu high efficiency downflow furnace in the loft that feeds about 32’ of 8”(?) rectangular ductwork down one sidewall. Works very well to heat the whole shop, easily brings the temperature up to 68-70 degrees in the dead of winter.
That looks awesome 747 . . . . Can't wait to see it with the finish on it - once again, another job well done ! !
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I suspect the floor will be one of those things where half (or more) of the people who walk in knowing what it looked like before will say "what the hell happened to your floor"! Doesn't really matter, I love the looks of stone, slate, wood and most anything nature provides so to me it's just one more thing for me to enjoy looking at to make it more like home. Now I'm torn on the cement block wall? I really hate to paint it... thought about insulating it but like being able to inspect the blocks for shifting plus don't want my conduit and outlets trapped in a potential damp area????
ws27
Well-Known Member
I'm going to suggest not having any duct work at all. My shop is very big, 75'x125'. I have one waste oil furnace set way out of the main area with the intention of adding ductwork later. I never added it because the shop heats just fine. If you want to sit way off in a corner and watch TV, you might notice it's not as warm, but in a shop, you are always moving around and will never notice it. The first pic is standing at the front looking down the shop, you can just barely notice where the noses of the blue and yellow cars are behind the wall
. The second is looking down the bay of where the cars, are the furnace is in the upper left. The bay is about 20'x20'. With all the stuff in the way (trucks and walls) the heat gets everywhere. I think you'll be happy with the heat distribution and with not having duct work taking up valuable space.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Easy enough, I'll start out with just a 90 so it's at least blowing out and not against the ceiling. Don't know how much difference it will make but it will also deliver central air as well? I do have 2 ceiling fans too so I'm sure that'll help.
ws27
Well-Known Member
I have A/C too. If you look at the second pic, in the upper left behind the two blue reels there is an A/C unit with no ductwork either. This blows down the length of the shop and also works just fine.
Can you mount the furnace to the ceiling?
Can you mount the furnace to the ceiling?
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I'm sure I could but I already have a mezzanine that will put the furnace 2' from the ceiling which is where it's going.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I likely will because I need room for an A coil. Horizontal coils are more money and not as common so I'd like to create enough room for a standard A coil. Doing this means a 90 to turn it up for the A coil which put me right back to being close to the ceiling.
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Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
As you probably remember, I went with radiant floor heat. I also got a righteous (free) deal on an air handler (ac unit) and installed that. It was configured for a vertical installation but was easily converted by just moving the drain pan. I also added a back up electric heating coil to it. Zero duct work. It lays above my bathroom and blows out into the shop. Works great.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Sounds like no duct it is.... Maybe a 6" run to the bathroom because one thing I can't handle is a cold toilet seat
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ws27
Well-Known Member
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