BLACK PAINT

[rich hourigan]

Good morning, i hope you are all doing well. I have a question concerning the restoration of my 67 GTX, Im at the point where i want to start painting all the under hood pulleys, power brake booster and backing plate and some other items as well. I dont want to use a spray can....period. i want to know what the serious resto guys are useing as far as brand, sheen, and what type of paint, enamel or urethane... i know everyone is going to say semi gloss, and i agree to a point, i read somewhere that factory black had a custom blend, not too shiny and not too dull... any help from someone that has done this correctly before would be appreciated, i read all the previous threads and the general concensus seems to be semi-gloss, i would like a detailed paint formula if someone has it. TY ... Rich

 

[dvw]

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-HR010-Hot-Rod-Black/dp/B008K1FX5I
This stuff is a nice semi gloss and extremely durable. The bottom of my racecar is painted with it. Doug

 

[rich hourigan]

Thanks Doug, that looks real clean, but for my application im looking for factory correct sheen, im the first to admit im not exactly sure what that is. i would usually just ask Justin since hes done a stock resto before. i want to get as close to factory hues and sheen as possible...

 

[Tony Tee]

Good morning, i hope you are all doing well. I have a question concerning the restoration of my 67 GTX, Im at the point where i want to start painting all the under hood pulleys, power brake booster and backing plate and some other items as well. I dont want to use a spray can....period. i want to know what the serious resto guys are useing as far as brand, sheen, and what type of paint, enamel or urethane... i know everyone is going to say semi gloss, and i agree to a point, i read somewhere that factory black had a custom blend, not too shiny and not too dull... any help from someone that has done this correctly before would be appreciated, i read all the previous threads and the general concensus seems to be semi-gloss, i would like a detailed paint formula if someone has it. TY ... Rich

Summit racing hot rod satin black is an another option.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

SEM Hot Rod Black is nice stuff.. Used it a few times.. But If your trying to match OE it's to dull....

OE was supposed to be gloss black but since it was just underhood & didn't need to look pretty as much as it needed to be protected they over thinned the paint causing it to have less shine than true gloss paint...

I'd use urethane with a flattening agent, around 25-30% flattener should be close...

 

[R413]

Yes the factory did no prep or sanding, no primer. You could see the stamping lines in the pullies. The paint was gloss but not as glossy as modern 2 part auto paint.

rattle cans generally will not get you to a factory finish that will last. Take the step up and you willl see the results for,yourself.

I do like 1wild RT and use some flattener. If you don’t it’s way to glossy to look right, and it shows every speck of dust.

Go one step further and use a different amount of flattener for different pieces so they don’t all look the same. That’s more like the factory did it.

In conversing with restoration people they say the alt bracket, PS bracket, PS pump, pullies, AC stuff air cleaner bases, brake boosters, 2 speed wiper motors, etc, were painted in different areas of the plant or at a vendors and should look slightly different.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Weren't parts dipped, runs and and all. Does moparnation74's thread contain this info?

 

[Frank Mopar]

Eastwood. They have all the restore things you will ever need. IMHO

 

[rich hourigan]

Wild RT, I like your suggestion, are you saying to get a gloss urethane and then flatten it by 30% ?....what brand urethane can you recommend ?.... i just want to be clear and thanks to everyone that responded, BTW my painter says good things about the hot rod black also

 

[Fran Blacker]

Pulled this from moparnation74's thread.

 

[rich hourigan]

thanks Fran, i looked at that, i always reference Justins thread, im interested in what kind of semi-gloss did he use and degree of gloss... im liking what wild rt suggested.. thanks for responding

 

[69L48Z27]

I use PPG Shopline acrylic enamel activated. I have a jobber here called BAPS. They have sprayouts of about 50 different sheens and products. Hanging pics are still wet but the wheel is obviously dry.

 

[R413]

That wheel looks great. But why not go all the way with quality and buy urethane products? Why acrylic enamel? I don’t understand this using shop line and Omni products.

you are going to all the work to disassemble prep and paint, let’s use the GOOG stuff!

 

[rich hourigan]

69, that all looks fantastic, I guess my problem would be that if i call a jobber like BAPS im not really sure what sheen to tell them to make me, do you have a spray out number that i can bring to my local PPG guy ... most of my old parts are 50 plus years old and crusty, hard to tell what sheen it was originaly. I bet that wheel is pretty darn close to what i need but thats just a guess...im leaning towards useing urethane, but not sure, enamel is a tough paint also.

 

[bandit67]

Were not most of the engine parts , as well as many other under hood parts painted with lacquer paint, in the sixties and early 70s or were they using enamels real early. They both seem to dull under hood engine heat rather quickly.

 

[69L48Z27]

Here’s the label.

 

[rich hourigan]

thanks for that label, do you think that is the level of gloss for my underhood accesories? and can i use that formula to mix it in urethane?

 

[69L48Z27]

A PPG jobber should be able to convert it. This is a custom mix for one of their resto shop customers.

I used that for what I’ll call ‘everything’. The lore that I read here and other sites is that most parts were dipped in in the same bath. Sheen would change from factory to factory and vat of paint to vat of paint. This is where I decided to draw the line on cost I guess. Activated JEA for a car that gets <500 miles a year and is never outside is good from my POV. My parts were shot with epoxy first then this as top coat. My PPG rep friend told me, just because it costs more doesn’t mean it’s better when it comes to their lines.

 

[rich hourigan]

69, you"ve been a really big help and thank you to everyone that responded, i am obviously not a painter, im just a regular guy trying to take his project to the next level. My early resto"s were rattle can jobs and honestly they came out pretty good but time for me to step it up and with FBBO"s help its getting there...69 i"ll take this to my local ppg guy and see what he says, i will report back here...

 

[Durandal25]

.....I kind of like the rattle cans. I've had great success with primer paint combos over the years. Did a few radiators and valve covers as wells as suspension parts that look as good as factory and lasted about as long. Skilled folks always do better.....but I'm just a little guy.