Flex plate alignment

[JG1966]

I'm reinstalling my 340 after getting some work done. I marked the flexplate and 727 converter with a little paint before I pulled motor so I'd know the proper alignment.
Now when I put "marked" bolt in, the others aren't lining up. Two line up (including one with paint) and other two are close but not close enough (about half of bolt diameter off center). I'm confused and frustrated.
I rotated to see if maybe I somehow marked incorrectly (but I'm certain I didn't) and then the alignments are Way off. My only thought is I torqued down bellhousing bolts and motor mounts already and maybe they need to be a little loose to give the motor/tranny some give. Is that my issue? If not, any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Loosening motor mounts or bell housing bolts will not help line up flex plate. You sure there is only one marked position. Other wise there are 3 more chances to get it right.

 

[JG1966]

Loosening motor mounts or bell housing bolts will not help line up flex plate. You sure there is only one marked position. Other wise there are 3 more chances to get it right.

Ok. That's what I figured about bellhousing and motor mounts. Thanks 3B. Yes. It's one marked spot. I hit it with a little maroon spray paint. I'm certain I marked it right.

 

[PP1RT]

Keep rotating until you get the right combo and don't tighten them until they are all started.
The bellhousing wont matter. The alignment pins put it in the correct position.

 

[Don Frelier]

1. You must have alignment dowels on the trans.
(No trouble bolting it back up? The outside edges between the two should be even all around)
2. Make sure the converter is seated fully in the transmission. This can be tough after it's bolted up.
3. If it's the same motor, flex plate and converter it has to go back together.

I had a similar problem after a V-6 to V-8 swap in my Dakota, but that was because there is a difference between the two flex plates and the V-6 converter. It was real, your's should not be from what I can tell.

 

[451Mopar]

If it is the same converter and flex plate they should go back together. Only exception might be if the flexplate is on the crank backwards? (or the converter hub not centered in the crank.)

 

[JG1966]

1. You must have alignment dowels on the trans.
(No trouble bolting it back up? The outside edges between the two should be even all around)
2. Make sure the converter is seated fully in the transmission. This can be tough after it's bolted up.
3. If it's the same motor, flex plate and converter it has to go back together.

I had a similar problem after a V-6 to V-8 swap in my Dakota, but that was because there is a difference between the two flex plates and the V-6 converter. It was real, your's should not be from what I can tell.

Thanks Don. Alignment dowels are good. It's same motor, flex plate and converter. I guess I'm not certain converter is fully seated. I left tranny in car when I pulled motor and converter didn't move. I spun convertor and pushed in to see if maybe it wasn't seated. It spun fine and didn't move in at all. Any other way to make sure it's seated?

 

[JG1966]

If it is the same converter and flex plate they should go back together. Only exception might be if the flexplate is on the crank backwards? (or the converter hub not centered in the crank.)

Flexplate is definitely on right. The concave is toward the engine.

 

[JG1966]

Keep rotating until you get the right combo and don't tighten them until they are all started.
The bellhousing wont matter. The alignment pins put it in the correct position.

Thanks PP1RT. That's part of my problem. If I don't tighten bolts, they hit the motor and I can't rotate engine to get to other bolts.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Convertor should be 1/4" away from flexplate before you start any bolts,IMO. Maybe convertor came forward and not engaged with pump tangs?

 

[JG1966]

Convertor should be 1/4" away from flexplate before you start any bolts,IMO. Maybe convertor came forward and not engaged with pump tangs?

Thanks Fran. I'll double check.

 

[Don Frelier]

Yes when fully seated, the converter should be about 1/4' back from the flexplate and then the bolts will pull it towards the motor.

 

[JG1966]

Yes when fully seated, the converter should be about 1/4' back from the flexplate and then the bolts will pull it towards the

 

[JG1966]

Ok. With the bolts out, it's about a quarter inch gap between flexplate and bolt holes. A little less. Enough to fit maybe two nickels.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Bolts only need to be loose enough that the converter can be moved without moving the flex plate. They will clear the block when it comes time for assembly rotation.

 

[JG1966]

Bolts only need to be loose enough that the converter can be moved without moving the flex plate. They will clear the block when it comes time for assembly rotation.

Ok. That's my next move. Thanks.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Ok. With the bolts out, it's about a quarter inch gap between flexplate and bolt holes. A little less. Enough to fit maybe two nickels.

Sounds right. Put a new mark on flexplate and convertor so you can keep track of what you tried. Only start the bolts 2 or 3 turns until you get them in.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Sounds right. Put a new mark on flexplate and convertor so you can keep track of what you tried. Only start the bolts 2 or 3 turns until you get them in.

Thats his problem. One or two turns will not clear the block when rotating the assembly.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Thats his problem. One or two turns will not clear the block when rotating the assembly.

Should have worded it different. Tighten ONLY until head of bolt comes in contact with the flexplate but DOESN'T pull convertor forward.

 

[PP1RT]

Agree with just enough turns in to rotate it. You should be able to hold the converter back enough so the bolts are up against the flex plate so you can turn the motor still.