Guru's tell me how does it look

[bigmanjbmopar]

Since I had my valley pan out I took some pics of the solid rollers on the hydraulic cam to see what the wear looked like, me not being any kind of expert would like you guys to look at the pics and see if you see any unusual wear or damage. up close you can see visible surface wear on the cam lobes, the rollers feel fine rods look ok to me nothing bent at first glance.

Let me know your thoughts does this look like it is going down anytime soon?


Thanks.

 

[67 B-body]

Looks ok from what you can tell from a picture. However, you could trim up the intake gaskets to fit the heads better when you re-assemble. See where the ports are larger than the gasket? How does this match up with the intake?

 

[moparpoor]

The lifters need to come out and the bearings checked.A flat tappet cam is cut on a taper to spin solid lifters.This will put additional side load on the lifters,causing premature roller wear and tapering of the roller.Its hard to tell from the picture.Looks to be some grooving or scoring in picture #2.Also check lifter bodies for scoring pic#3.

 

[67 B-body]

The lifters need to come out and the bearings checked.A flat tappet cam is cut on a taper to spin solid lifters.This will put additional side load on the lifters,causing premature roller wear and tapering of the roller.Its hard to tell from the picture.Looks to be some grooving or scoring in picture #2.Also check lifter bodies for scoring pic#3.

It's a Roller Cam.........

 

[racedodge]

but its a hydraulic roller cam using solid roller lifters correct? hydraulic roller and mechanical roller cams are designed differently. Not saying it cannot be done, but there is a reason why they do them separately.

 

[67 B-body]

but its a hydraulic roller cam using solid roller lifters correct? hydraulic roller and mechanical roller cams are designed differently. Not saying it cannot be done, but there is a reason why they do them separately.

Rollers dont have a ramp built into them to spin the lifter......

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Looks ok from what you can tell from a picture. However, you could trim up the intake gaskets to fit the heads better when you re-assemble. See where the ports are larger than the gasket? How does this match up with the intake?

Gaskets come off, going with just the bath tube and sealant already back together and i will be firing it up today to check for leaks.

See thread 440source valley pan for why.

 

[Cranky]

Looks to me like the distributor shaft doesn't sit very deep into the intermediate shaft.....

 

[moparpoor]

When I read hydraulic cam I assumed flat tappet :eusa_doh:
Look at pic#1Look at the lifter to cam lobe.Could be just the pic.It looks as the lifter is over the edge of the cam lobe.This will cause the what looks like a groove in the roller.I see it again in pic#2

Pic#3 and 4 it maybe just the pics.Look at the lifter bodies.
Solid roller cams are usually harder in material and carry more agressive cam profiles.If the valve springs were matched to the hydraulic cam shouldn't be a problem.If spring pressure is to high it will cause the lifter to dig into the cam.Same thing can happen if the lash is to loose.

 

[67 B-body]

I've read of Hyd Roller lifters taking up some of the lift at higher RPMS when used on a more aggresive "solid" roller cam. The articles have claimed that they had a nice steady power climb on the Dyno, then just drop off hard when they start collapsing at the top. I haven't heard of any lobe failures or softer lobes on Hyd Roller cams over Solid Roller cams myself.

 

[godfatherofchry]

Looks to me like the distributor shaft doesn't sit very deep into the intermediate shaft.....

ya, I see what ya mean.something doesn't look write there.....Artie

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

ya, I see what ya mean.something doesn't look write there.....Artie

You installed a new bronze gear on the old drive gear,right?

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

No, the bronze gear is new and the cam came with It's gear. The distrib. Shaft from the procomp dist is a tight fit but is all the way down trust me.

 

[moparpoor]

I've read of Hyd Roller lifters taking up some of the lift at higher RPMS when used on a more aggresive "solid" roller cam. The articles have claimed that they had a nice steady power climb on the Dyno, then just drop off hard when they start collapsing at the top. I haven't heard of any lobe failures or softer lobes on Hyd Roller cams over Solid Roller cams myself.

Some of the hydraulic roller cams are still chilled cast.Just as the majority of cams since the 80's.Sollid rollers are billet bars machined down.Not all cam companies do this,but alot do.The major cost diffrences.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

How many miles on those lifters?What spring pressure are you using?Did you take them out while the intake was off,that's the only way to have a good look at the rollers.Do you lash the rockers on A regular basis?If so,make written notes of milage when lashing is done and which rocker needed adjustment.Sometimes you can get lucky and catch a bad lifter before it catches you

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

sorry about the blurry pic's:tongue:

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Yes I remember your pics that is what prompted this thread, wanted to see just how how bad the surface scoring is from other perspectives. Up close the marks on the lobe's are just surface can not feel any grove. wondering just how long it's going to last though.

There are around 600 miles on it. The spring pressure is what ever they made the stealth heads with I don't know. They were not take out but the few that were off the lobe i was able to spin freely. Since they are solid we have lashed them a couple of times with the final being at 8/10.

However for those who know about my adventures with these they were originally thought to be hydro lifters and the lash was set for that, once we figured it out instead of changing them we kept them in and made the correct lash adjustments. So for the first maybe 50 miles they were lashed wrong. I.E. 1/4 past lash pre load.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

You figure about 50 miles??That might account for some of the skid marks on the rollers.Being that tight,at times the roller was skiddin' not rollin':violent-smiley-100:

 

[moparpoor]

What really saved you were the light springs.If they were the correct springs for the setup.It would have wiped out a few parts.
If the lobes feel smooth and are straight,meaning no dishing in the wear marks.You should be ok.You should check your end play also.The edges of the rollers have no pits or chips.The rollers are smooth with no play in them.The bodies of the lifters are smooth.They should be alright.
As Hemi-Itis said if you are chasing a lifter or lifters as for adjustment you have a problem.
You really have some mismatched parts.The springs are really to light for a roller application.Take it easy with it.Until you can get all the correct puzzle pieces to make it right.

 

[racedodge]

Rollers dont have a ramp built into them to spin the lifter......

I understand that in regards to mechanical "non-roller" lifters and cams, but if the manufacturer intended solid roller lifters to be ran on hydraulic roller cams, they would not have used different part numbers and just made one style of cam for everything then would they not?

what I am saying is that they make the mechanical and the hydraulic roller cams/lifters for a certain reason, if it made more sense and created a more efficient means to obtain horsepower to run a mechanical roller lifter on a hydraulic roller cam, then they would package that option and try to sell it instead of keeping them separate like they do.

It isn't a matter of could you do it, but should you.