Has anybody use a 26" Core 4 Row Champion Monster Radiator MC375

[bigmanjbmopar]

Bigman, I checked that shroud out on Summit. How does it install?

The kits comes with the plastic screw and retainer nut with rubber bushings and threads between fins on the RAD to the other side. it is tight and snug on mine, at first glance it seems like it wouldn't work but it does, same type of deal for the electric pusher fan I have up front that comes on at 200°

All these things nowadays seem to come with this plastic mounting hardware guess it protects the fins. Screws are small enough to go through the fins without damage.

 

[GTXTHUNDER]

4 row radiator

Last year i installed the 4 row radiator by Champion. It works great in my 67 GTX. It fit well and has kept my GTX between 180 and 190 even in the warmest days. i think it was well worth it.

 

[tallhair]

I got a 4 core 26" out of a late 70's truck from the junk yard back in the early 80's. Worked well for me and it never overheated in Texas in 100+ degree weather no matter what i was doing in or with it. My car's support was for a 26" already. 3 holes lined up. I didn't want to drill any holes so that's holding it in. Ran a 7 blade clutch fan and no shroud because i didn't have one and wasn't smart enough to find one when they were in the junk yards and those that I came across were usually broken or buggered up anyway.

Matter of fact even with 22" 2 or 3 cores i've never had a problem overheating with a clutch fan and i've spent a lotta time in texas and illinois. Best thing is to run a clutch fan and make sure the radiator is flowing correctly i think. Big stuff like Will's hopped up 512 or the OP's ride may need more than a well functioning factory set up.

 

[q-ship]

Just a couple of points as far as aftermarket radiators go.

be careful if choosing a 4 row over a three or two row. I had a guy that had bought a used 4 row NASCAR radiator (I forget the brand, but it was one of the more common ones), but it caused his car to run hotter than the stock 2 row - 26 inch, and he brought the car to me to figure out why.

The engine tune was good, so I contacted the manufacturer of the radiator to try to determine what the problem was. I learned that some radiators use extra rows to LIMIT airflow at high speeds to deflect excess air down and around the car.

Additionally, I have found through experience that non tapered shrouds like the one pictured a few posts above can be very detrimental to cooling at speed as they act as an air dam instead of a funnel.

I can't comment on what is a good brand currently, but a two row 1.25" tube "turbulator" tube style (Turbulator being an industry description of a tube that has rotational veigns inside that spins the water so that the maximum amount of surface area is exposed to the tube surface) should be more than adequate to cool the average big block, or a three row if the tubes and fins aren't to close together so that they don't create an airflow restriction, or make the radiator to thick for a a stock shroud. The more tubes per inch, the fewer rows are usually/actually a benefit to cooling.

One other thing that is important when switching to an aluminum radiator is to try to electrically isolate it as possible. In other words, don't run any grounds that are bolted to the stock radiator, and ideally use a thin rubber insulator between the radiator and the opening, and use nylon mounting bolts. Keep it as isolated as possible as electrical isolation can make an aluminum radiator last for many years, vs. possibly 6 months if you have a decrepit electrical system and stock mounting. --- less than 1/4 volt ground differential will eat, or clog an aluminum radiator in short order.

Lastly, soldered tubes will last longer than epoxied ones over myriads of heat/cool cycles, so unless a manufacturer touts that, they are probably not.

Hope any of this is of help.