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Header Primary Tube Size?

I just tested the new headers I built on my 64 Dodge street car. The car only ran 14.0 at 93 mph. I was pissed, I hate headers on my street cars. but I wasnt gonna live with having a 14.0 car. It had 440 magnum manifolds with 2 1/4" exhaust and flowmaster mufflers. I built stainless steel 1 5/8" - 1 3/4" to 2" Tri Ys and a 2 1/2" exhaust system with X pipe. The engine is a stock 73' 440 with 516 heads and an A&A cross ram with two 500 edelbrock carbs on it. I took it back to the track last night, I was shocked at the difference, it ran the best of 13.29 at 101 mph and it was spinning the tire. I have a set of the Hurst Cheater slicks on it, there just not good enough on a bad track, its was street night. Im porting a set of 452 heads right now to put on, my goal was to get it into the 12s as a street car.

Mark Lelchook
Performance Welding
Racing Headers
 
Pictures
 

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Nice job on the Tri-Y headers... But why did you have to go thru the side panels? Just curious..
 
The hole was already there actually, I didnt cut it. I couldnt get the right lengths on the passanger side going on the inside of the frame rail. I also dont like to use tight radius bends, actually I wont use tight radius bends. The driver side is all inside. The headers are actually perfect lenghts, Tri Ys on one of these cars is very hard to do, and make a nice header. I wanted these to be perfect as I have future plans of making this car a NHRA Stocker, probably a 426" street wedge. I designed the headers for 450 - 500 hp, which is what a good 426" street wedge Stocker engine should make. Comicly this job was one of those I thought id never finish jobs, and it was my own car.

Mark Lelchook
Performance Welding
Racing Headers
 
The hole was already there actually, I didnt cut it. I couldnt get the right lengths on the passanger side going on the inside of the frame rail. I also dont like to use tight radius bends, actually I wont use tight radius bends. The driver side is all inside. The headers are actually perfect lenghts, Tri Ys on one of these cars is very hard to do, and make a nice header. I wanted these to be perfect as I have future plans of making this car a NHRA Stocker, probably a 426" street wedge. I designed the headers for 450 - 500 hp, which is what a good 426" street wedge Stocker engine should make. Comicly this job was one of those I thought id never finish jobs, and it was my own car.

Mark Lelchook
Performance Welding
Racing Headers
Were in Northern California are you located? can you post a link or address?...
 
got 2' hoooker super comp-on my 67x for the street they are the best-with 410 out back --let big blocks breath
 
There's lots of talent up in them damn hills, just gotta look for it. My headers power most of the fastest Stock / Super Stock / Comp / Pro Stock Cars in the Country. And Im a Mopar Lover !!!

Thanks
Mark
 
Yep them Nor-California mountains can produce some serious, power, cars, race contenders, builder & fabricators...
 
New update on my header testing. I put on a old set of my 9" Hoosier Radials on the car with factory 8" steel wheels. I also put on my spare moroso electric water pump drive as well to try and keep the temp more consistent, and add a little power as well. Would you believe the car went a 12.59 at 103.5 mph. In addition ive decided to make this car into a legal NHRA Stocker, im gonna build a 426 street wedge for it, its rated at 300 hp with that combo. Im having so much fun with the car I wanna keep racing it. Ive got a set of 915 heads on the way and will start doing the engine over the winter. My E/SA 69 Barracuda is all done and sadly its too fast with the new rules. Im up for a new challenge, so im doing the 64 Dodge wit the 426" street wedge. Its a good combo, and will run in F/SA G/SA or H/SA. Ill run it in H as im not gonna tear the car apart to build a lightweight flyer like my Cuda.

Mark Lelchook
 
Mark sounds like a couple of cool cars, look forward to seeing them some day, good showing really step up compared to the 14's & 13's it was running in your earlier posts, my competitive racing days unfortunately are kind of stalled at the moment, had to sell a car just to survive, I regret selling it daily, still have a street/strip car, but not too much income lately... Golf Equipment, Lessons & Construction business are really "s-l-o-w" borderline being dead on arrival... Still building a race car for a friend to supplement my lack of income, thank god for multiple talent's, I would be in dire trouble otherwise...
 
Mark....Nice work and good info. This was a good thread. Everyone offered excellent input. My 2 cents worth is on a street/strip car everything is a compromise. You need to concertrate on your exhaust system using the biggest diameter pipes from the front to the rear along with the most unrestricted muffler you can. The air pump we use for a motor needs the least restriction on the intake and exhaust side.
 
Got a new update. I went to put on the 452 heads I had ported and the piston was .165 in the hole. I opted to pull the engine and do a rebuild. I did this on the cheap cheap, my goal was to spend little dough. I bought a set of SRP flat top pistons which put the piston about .010 in the hole. I changed the rods from the six pack rods that were in it to a stock rod. I changes the cam from the small purple shaft that was in it to a custom Comp Cams. We used the Ford lobes so the profile wasnt too agressive. Intake duration is 270 and exhaust 269 at .050 on 109 lobe sep. When I got the cam here and read the card I had wished I had used a little smaller lobe but oh well.... its has quite a bit of overlap which is good as im gonna run it on pump gas. The heads flowed 250 cfm at .600 on my bench, which is what the lift on the cam is. The ports are small, but flow well for the size. I ported mostly the bowl area and was worried about going thru to water. I honed the block myself here at home, paid a buddy $100 to resize the rods, another friend balanced it for free. I bought an ATI dampner, and the rings are std tension top and second with a low tension oil ring. I broke the cam in with a set of Schubeck lifters out of my spare Stocker engine, and later installed a new set of Tool steel Ferrea lifters and did another break in on the cam. All and all I added it all up and I had $2300 into the rebuild. Like I said, on the cheap cheap. Its good to have a lot of friends in the industry, and I used all the parts I had laying around !!!
I drove the car all over the street, making sure all was well, changing the oil, adjusting the valves. This was my first big block rebuild, im a small block guy. All has been perfect. I took it to the track last night, the track was packed, it was street race night. I only got one run in, and it spun the tires pretty bad. 60ft was only 1.765, the ET was 11.57 at 115.72 mph. I had a hard time driving it, I couldnt see the tach, and its still a push button tranny. I believe if I shifted it correctly and the car wouldnt have spun it would have gone about a 11.30 or so.
All and all im happy with the results. Im still using the same small 1 5/8" Tri Y headers and 2 1/2" exhaust. Until I get track time on the car I wont know what changes to make to the headers or exhaust. Im pretty sure I need to open up the Y on the last collector and go to a 2 3/4" exhaust system. But im not gonna make any changes till I get some consistent time slips.
These big blocks are a hoot, amazing how streetable a low eleven second car can be.

Mark Lelchook
Performance Welding
Racing Headers
 
From 14.0's to 11.57 ! Wow thats a big improvement. Way to go ! Ron
 
Fun aren't they

Got a new update. I went to put on the 452 heads I had ported and the piston was .165 in the hole. I opted to pull the engine and do a rebuild. I did this on the cheap cheap, my goal was to spend little dough. I bought a set of SRP flat top pistons which put the piston about .010 in the hole. I changed the rods from the six pack rods that were in it to a stock rod. I changes the cam from the small purple shaft that was in it to a custom Comp Cams. We used the Ford lobes so the profile wasnt too agressive. Intake duration is 270 and exhaust 269 at .050 on 109 lobe sep. When I got the cam here and read the card I had wished I had used a little smaller lobe but oh well.... its has quite a bit of overlap which is good as im gonna run it on pump gas. The heads flowed 250 cfm at .600 on my bench, which is what the lift on the cam is. The ports are small, but flow well for the size. I ported mostly the bowl area and was worried about going thru to water. I honed the block myself here at home, paid a buddy $100 to resize the rods, another friend balanced it for free. I bought an ATI dampner, and the rings are std tension top and second with a low tension oil ring. I broke the cam in with a set of Schubeck lifters out of my spare Stocker engine, and later installed a new set of Tool steel Ferrea lifters and did another break in on the cam. All and all I added it all up and I had $2300 into the rebuild. Like I said, on the cheap cheap. Its good to have a lot of friends in the industry, and I used all the parts I had laying around !!!
I drove the car all over the street, making sure all was well, changing the oil, adjusting the valves. This was my first big block rebuild, im a small block guy. All has been perfect. I took it to the track last night, the track was packed, it was street race night. I only got one run in, and it spun the tires pretty bad. 60ft was only 1.765, the ET was 11.57 at 115.72 mph. I had a hard time driving it, I couldnt see the tach, and its still a push button tranny. I believe if I shifted it correctly and the car wouldnt have spun it would have gone about a 11.30 or so.
All and all im happy with the results. Im still using the same small 1 5/8" Tri Y headers and 2 1/2" exhaust. Until I get track time on the car I wont know what changes to make to the headers or exhaust. Im pretty sure I need to open up the Y on the last collector and go to a 2 3/4" exhaust system. But im not gonna make any changes till I get some consistent time slips.
These big blocks are a hoot, amazing how streetable a low eleven second car can be.

Mark Lelchook
Performance Welding
Racing Headers

:iamwithstupid: they are great engines & car combo's when done properly aren't they, I need to get together with you, on some advice about some headers I'm thinking about, not all out more streetable & good clearances with the Unisteer rack & pinion I'm using...
 
just give me a call at work, im more than happy to help with header tech, its my life.... just look up the # on the website.

Mark
 
I will soon

just give me a call at work, im more than happy to help with header tech, its my life.... just look up the # on the website.

Mark

I will get a hold of you when I'm close or maybe just call to BS about my ideas...
 
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