Lookie what $5000 buys you....

[1 Wild R/T]

I am glad to have been able to help the project along.
I did look at the inside of the 'X' before installing and it looked good- a nice, big ovoid hole in there.
The pipes do have some road grime on them as is to be expected when they are used as intended.
What I found strange was that they almost immediately discolored from heat so bad that I thought I was running horribly lean (wasn't). I think it is a batch of strange chinesium stainless...
I was nice meeting another FBBO member.
Greg gave me an extra $20 for 'delivery' & I gave him some hot sauce to try out.
View attachment 1021655

Your not related to Hillary are ya???

 

[BDF6]

Your not related to Hillary are ya???

HELL NO!!!!!!
Why would you ask such a horrible thing?

 

[Kern Dog]

In 2016 while campaigning, she had a "meet and greet" with some black people. They asked her questions.....One was "Name one thing that you always bring with you on your campaign bus"...
The lying skag said... "Hot sauce."
The others knew she was lying and just pandering for votes.

 

[BDF6]

In 2016 while campaigning, she had a "meet and greet" with some black people. They asked her questions.....One was "Name one thing that you always bring with you on your campaign bus"...
The lying skag said... "Hot sauce."
The others knew she was lying and just pandering for votes.

I don't follow politics as deeply as some...
That creep ruins EVERYTHING doesn't 'she'!
I DO travel with hot sauce a lot though.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

HELL NO!!!!!!
Why would you ask such a horrible thing?

Greg covered it, sorry just poking fun, hope you aren't to offended....

 

[BDF6]

Greg covered it, sorry just poking fun, hope you aren't to offended....

Good thing he did, you're off the **** list now
I thought the "big, ovoid hole" comment may have triggered something

 

[CoronetDarter]

I love Tognotti's. They will match Summit on everything over $100.

 

[Kern Dog]

I quit going there because they never stocked any Mopar stuff. I do like to hold, buy and take home stuff on the same day!

 

[CoronetDarter]

Good point, you do have to call first for some Mopar specific parts. Last year when I was overhauling the starting circuit on the Coronet (remember the heat shield debacle) I wanted to upsize the starter solenoid wire to 10 ga from 12 ga, but keep the wire OEM brown. Tognotti's was the only place in town I could find 10 ga brown.

 

[Kern Dog]

I don't mind the drive. If they have what I want, I'm willing to make the trip. I've been to Sparks, NV to the Summit store 3 times this past year. That is almost 2 hours each way.

 

[Kern Dog]

There are a couple of worthless bumps of iron that I cut off from the block.

In some small block engines, those bumps are in the way of a couple header pipes. I don't know what brand the headers are that I have so I went ahead and just played it safe. The bumps serve no function after the original machine work was done when the engine was new. I sprayed the block and heads with metal etch primer.

 

[Kern Dog]

Awhile back, I was looking at the slight oil leak in my other car. It looked like there was a larger gap between the bottom of the timing cover and pan compared to the sides where the pan meets the block. For this engine, I took a straightedge and did find that the bottom of the timing cover does sit below the block by a measurable amount. This position is determined by the dowel pins in the front as well as the holes punched in the timing cover. I took a round file and hogged the holes a bit to move the timing cover down until it was even with the sides of the block. The only problem I see is the possibility of trading one leak for another IF the snout of the crank is now off center in the hole.

 

[Kern Dog]

I don't know what is the correct color for a 383 Magnum. I don't know if the "Magnum" was available in the '70 Charger anyway. Maybe the 4 barrel engine but regardless, I'm going with Mopar street Hemi Orange. It is my favorite color for Mopar engines.

I slipped in a steel windage tray from the red car, deep enough for the 4.15 stroke of the 440/493 in that car. I hope it helps.

Since I hate leaks and am trying to do better about stopping them, I tried a product that has been mentioned many times by seasoned mechanics...

 

[Kern Dog]

The clean look of an engine that has yet to run !

I used a valley pan with the heat crossover blocked off.

I have a pair of ancient, "Old School" Holley cast aluminum valve covers that I plan to use. I wanted the cast Mopar Performance ones but I'm trying to keep costs down on the project.

 

[Kern Dog]

I'm approaching a point where I have 2 ways to go.
A little history first:
About 2 years ago when the reality of buying this car was materializing, I justified the money I'd need to spend by telling myself that I'd use "hand me downs" from the red car.
I have considered a Tremec 5 speed swap for THIS car....

The swap would mean that I would then have a spare 727, converter, ATF cooler and lines, drive shaft, Bouchillon trans kickdown cable kit, floor shifter and linkage.

Guess what I need to get JIGSAW running? ( Hint...The list is above)
Yeah...I have a couple of used 727s up the hill. They did work but they are all stock. I don't have a drive shaft. I do have some cooler lines but they are not pretty. The only trans kickdown linkage that I have is LA series stuff. Everything I have would need to be modified. It can be done but the Bouchillon cable kit is so simple and reliable. I planned on starting and driving this car with the column linkage for awhile but eventually I'll want to convert it to floor shift.

From the start, this car was paid for by selling parts from my stash, working side jobs and the sale of that '65 Valiant convertible. THAT guy still owes me $1000 on it but hasn't found a job so....To move forward means some out of pocket cash will be needed.

I mentioned there being 2 ways to go.
1) Move ahead by spending the money to buy what is needed.
2) Wait, buy and install the 5 speed in the red car (Ginger) and use the parts that are pulled off.

I am in no hurry to finish this beater. I am enjoying the journey. It makes financial sense to use the hand-me-downs from Ginger. The only down side is that it means putting this car aside for what may be a few weeks to couple of months while I do the swap in the red car.

 

[Kern Dog]

I blocked off the carburetor opening and bolted on this lift plate.

I am always amazed that 4 little 5/16" bolts can support an engine.

 

[Kern Dog]

I'll wait to install the water pump and housing and balancer. I am always nervous about engines being supported by those 4 3/8" bolts at the back of the block!

These valve covers were not my first choice. I traded some parts to get them. At least they are rigid cast aluminum.
Gaskets are Moroso with steel core.

 

[66 Sat]

Awhile back, I was looking at the slight oil leak in my other car. It looked like there was a larger gap between the bottom of the timing cover and pan compared to the sides where the pan meets the block. For this engine, I took a straightedge and did find that the bottom of the timing cover does sit below the block by a measurable amount. This position is determined by the dowel pins in the front as well as the holes punched in the timing cover. I took a round file and hogged the holes a bit to move the timing cover down until it was even with the sides of the block. The only problem I see is the possibility of trading one leak for another IF the snout of the crank is now off center in the hole.


View attachment 1023031

I know it's a bit late now but to ensure the crank snout was centered you could have put the balancer on before fully tightening the timing cover bolts. I had to do this on the small block as there are no dowels to locate the cover.
One cam change and now I'm an expert...

 

[Kern Dog]

There is some "give" in the seal. It can probably be off center a slight amount and still keep the oil inside. The timing covers have holes punched where the dowels are, they are very close to the size of the dowels and that limits the placement. The bolt holes in the cover are large enough to allow some movement though.

 

[theman440]

I had a case of Sticker shock when I checked the price of the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake....Summit Racing had it listed for a butt slamming $354 ! I know the B series stuff can cost a little more due to more people building RB series engines but holeeeee crap!
I was expecting it to be around $250. I had figured to also buy a Firecore electronic distributor too, that is another $170 give or take.
In keeping with my penny pinching, money stretching ways, I looked around and found an electronic B series distributor in my parts stash.
It was missing the reluctor wheel but was otherwise complete.
This engine will not have a really wild cam but it is bigger than stock. Even the stock engines had more pep with more initial advance than the stock specs but doing so always puts the total advance beyond the range of safe operation.
Knowing that the stock Mopar distributors have approximately 26-28 degrees of mechanical advance in them, the old school trick is to modify the distributor to allow for less advance. I've only done this once before so it took me a little bit to get this one done.
First up, disassembly.

View attachment 1020226

Find a DP4B for it, great manifold. I got one at spring fling a couple years ago for $100