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Opinions on 440 setup

Koronetti70

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Hi.

Someone might recognize this same question from facebook, sorry about that. Just interested in opinions of the setup on my 440 engine as I'm new to engine modifications. It was built by someone else. It's got 1200miles after the build. Heard it did 12.2s on a Challenger. I'm probably going to install it to a Coronet sedan with 727 auto with slight modifications, 2500 stall converter IIRC and a 3.55 rear. It's going to be mainly street driven. Going to use the Rick Ehrenberg distributor with MSD Blaster SS coil and HEI ignition module.

440 HP block
Scat connecting rods
Comp cams 21-231-4 camshaft
Keith black KB236-030 pistons
Ported 452 heads with some edelbrock valves
10.4:1 CR
HP exhaust manifolds
Everything balanced.

What carburetor would you recommend? I have 750 Carter AFB and 750 vacuum secondary Holley on the shelf. Or does it need bigger? I also have an Edelbrock Torker II and a CH28 dual quad intakes, but I'm open for better options. What oil, healthy oil pressure, max rpm etc?
 
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A 750 double pumper would be ideal.Maybe an 850 with a little more gear and converter.
A performer rpm intake would be ideal though it would respond well with the ch28 dual four and a couple of 500 or 600 carbs.

For sticking with what you have and not buying more parts I would go with the Torker II and the 750 vacuum secondary. A little more stall wouldn't hurt IMO.
 
A 750 double pumper would be ideal.Maybe an 850 with a little more gear and converter.
A performer rpm intake would be ideal though it would respond well with the ch28 dual four and a couple of 500 or 600 carbs.

For sticking with what you have and not buying more parts I would go with the Torker II and the 750 vacuum secondary. A little more stall wouldn't hurt IMO.
Well stated.
 
I use a ch28 with two 600's on one of my 440's; really like it. Torquey and very low maintenance.
 
Why do people continue to suggest a double pumper carburetor for a street car?

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No. The engine neither needs nor wants that much fuel for what will be part throttle driving for 95% of the time.
 
It depends what kind of reaction you want from the motor when you " stomp the gas".
But I agree , 95% of the time you are only in the primaries , so the style of secondaries is a moot point.
 
Why do people continue to suggest a double pumper carburetor for a street car?

View attachment 1564077

No. The engine neither needs nor wants that much fuel for what will be part throttle driving for 95% of the time.
Why do people continue to suggest a double pumper carburetor for a street car?

View attachment 1564077

No. The engine neither needs nor wants that much fuel for what will be part throttle driving for 95% of the till

Why do people continue to suggest a double pumper carburetor for a street car?

View attachment 1564077

No. The engine neither needs nor wants that much fuel for what will be part throttle driving for 95% of the time.
I have to agree that automatics love vac secondaries
 
I'm fairly partial towards velocity controlled secondaries carbs for street or dual purpose. The carbs on my ch28 are very smooth opening no matter how aggressive i drive. No hiccups, belches or stupid crap. Slam on the brakes and no stalling or silly stuff.
 
Why do people continue to suggest a double pumper carburetor for a street car?

View attachment 1564077

No. The engine neither needs nor wants that much fuel for what will be part throttle driving for 95% of the time.

I used an 850 double pumper ,and an 870 vacuum sec. on a really hot 406 sbc , the double pumper was faster , but used more gas on the street , the 870 vac. sec. was best for fuel mileage ...
and it was n automatic w/ a good convertor...
 
My point was that the double pumpers push way too much fuel through that isn't needed and only serves to cost money and wear the rings out faster.
 
My point was that the double pumpers push way too much fuel through that isn't needed and only serves to cost money and wear the rings out faster.
The only way that's conceivable is if the needle and seats aren't controlling fuel pressure anymore, or the pumps /cams/shooters are grossly over sized.
The secondary pump is there to briefly cover the lean spot of the secondary butterflies opening. Tuned properly there should be little change in AFR.
 
My point was that the double pumpers push way too much fuel through that isn't needed and only serves to cost money and wear the rings out faster.
No they don't . The secondaries on a dp don't even come into play until the primaries are open about 40-50 %. Most around town driving will be accomplished on the primaries only.
 
Unless it is a heavy car or very tall gears I prefer a double pumper more often than not. You control the secondaries with your right foot.

It is about responsiveness and not waiting for the spring to open the secondaries.For me anyway.

I have run mostly vacuum secondary carbs on my heavy C bodies with less than 3.55 gear.
 
What people do not understand about DP carbs is that you can never get the pump shot correct for all driving conditions. When you stomp on the throttle at low rpms, you need a large pump shot; cruising at 3000 rpm & you stomp the pedal you need a small pump shot.
 
I would use the 750 Carter & keep the Holley for a door stop.
The sec operation of the Carter is ingenious [ which is why Edel copied it ] , unchanged since it's 1957 intro. Unknown & [ misunderstood ] by many, the AFB is a mechanical sec carb. When the pedal is pushed to WOT, all four barrels go to WOT. Because of the velocity valves in the sec bores, air flow is blocked so that no flat spot occurs with the sudden opening of the t/blades. There is a 'starter' or low speed cct built into the sec venturiis that gets initial fuel flowing so that once air speed is high enough to pull the v/valves to the open position, there is a seemless transition to the main cct.
 
Regularly switching between a 600 vac sec and a 700 double pumper I have to say I much prefer the feel and control of the double pumper, even though the vac sec makes more sense on the street You can adjust when the secondaries open in relation to throttle input, but regardless, as said above you are on the primaries only for the majority of street driving.
This is with an auto, 3.23 rear.

It depends how you drive you car too and how sensitive you are on the controls. Some people use the throttle like an on/off switch. A double pumper wouldn't be ideal for those folk.
 
I'll have to think about the carburetors. New one's are quite expensive here so I'll probably use the one's I have. For the dual quad, I have two identical 600CFM Edelbrocks.

Will the stock dual snorkel air cleaner fit undet the hood with the torker or performer rpm intake for example? I would like to make it appear as stock as possible if I decide not to use the dual quads.
 
I'll have to think about the carburetors. New one's are quite expensive here so I'll probably use the one's I have. For the dual quad, I have two identical 600CFM Edelbrocks.

Will the stock dual snorkel air cleaner fit undet the hood with the torker or performer rpm intake for example? I would like to make it appear as stock as possible if I decide not to use the dual quads.
I doubt a factory dual snorkle air cleaner will fit under the hood with a performer rpm. An edelbrock ch4b probably would.
 
Reading the responses with great interest as I have a very similar build with headers. I haven't purchased a carb yet but looking at 780 or 850 Quick Fuel with vacuum secondaries. :popcorn:
 
I'll have to think about the carburetors. New one's are quite expensive here so I'll probably use the one's I have. For the dual quad, I have two identical 600CFM Edelbrocks.

Will the stock dual snorkel air cleaner fit undet the hood with the torker or performer rpm intake for example? I would like to make it appear as stock as possible if I decide not to use the dual quads.
When I used the dual snorkel and Torker, cleared for me and was using a double pumper at the time
 
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