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Recommend foam pads for cutting and buffing

T2R9

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I have been getting frustrated getting a shine on my truck. The paint is base clear but the peel is great. I have done the bed with 1500, 2000, then 3000 trizact. I then buffed with a Porta Cable DA with Chemical Guys 36 and 38. It is flat and looks good but not great. I want great!

So I bought the 3m Perfect-it system. What foam pads to use? My DA has a 5.5 hook and loop. I plan to wet sand the rest of the truck 1500, 2000,2500, then 3000 trizact.

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Sorry not a B-body LOL
 
OK I will give them a go. So blue for step 1, green 2, then yellow. Thoughts on the 3m 3part system using these pads?

THANKS
 
OK I will give them a go. So blue for step 1, green 2, then yellow. Thoughts on the 3m 3part system using these pads?

THANKS
I haven’t used that system. I use 3m but I use a product called k211. It’s what we use on the production line.
If you use that system just make sure you are using the polish that corresponds with the pad.
 
I use the 3M system on everything. Use the pads they recommend. I use wool for a quicker compound cut but have used foam for compound step. It’s just a little slower but it works.

The lids/caps match the pad color. White/white, black/black, blue/blue. Real simple.

Check my build thread out for cut and buff info.
 
Nice truck BTW. I’ll send my club cab your way for paint!

Here’s what you want.

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Wool works on a DA? I am really nervous trying wool on a rotary and cutting through!
 
You using a DA or a buffer? I’m not an expert but I’ve had good results with a wool pad on a buffer then the DA for a final finish.
 
DA? Missed that part. I use a Makita rotary. Use the white foam if your worried about blowing through.

Did you paint the truck? If you did I’m sure you can fix it. :lol:
 
Its a Porter Cable 7424Xp. I have base and clear so I can fix mistakes but really don't want to go there.
 
How many coats of clear did you put on it?
 
I like the wool pad , but to have a better tool... get a varitable speed polisher for a 8" velcro pad .. I use that 3m crap all the time.. and find the wool pad is great for cutting the 3000 trizac.. dont use 2000 unless you have a foampad between the main 6 inch pad and 2000 disk, it will leave deep circles.. and if the finish is fresh.. it will die back .. in a week.. so I guess it goes as.. 2000 nibs , 3000 over all panel then 5000 over all panel then 3m coarse ( Paste is brown) wool pad small areas at a time..( Med speed) try not to dig in.. it will burn the clear.. .. Then clean pad debris. then white polishing compound with wool pad to work out the Brown paste haze.. .. switch out wool pad to the black corogated pad.. Use white paste then start working on the shine.. .. 3m says the scratch will always be there.But with that crap anything is possible... but you have to remember there are no filler qualities in the 3m products,, I actually have a hood to do in the morning following those steps.. so it can get the clear plastic protection installed.. I do the same process.. what your edges so you do not burn through.. make sure your paint has plenty enough time to gas off the vapors from curing. thats mostly where the dye back starts..
 
Not sure how many coats of clear you have. So it all depends on what is left over the base.
Any orange peel or dust ect needs hand wet sanded not DA,d the trizac comes in many grits I know.
But easy is not always better, Get a box of 1500 or 2000 wet or dry and a paint stick cut to length, bucket of clean water and get to work. You have to be able to feel whats going on. You pick up a nib by hand you know it right away.
You get a nib or two in the trizac pad your back to sq. one
Everyone always wimps out once they get to the lower sections of the body so start there and work your way up. wet the panel down your working and wipe dry If you see anything except dull glass flat clear keep working.
Once all the peel and nibs are gone then run over it with a few 3000 trizac pads wet on a tight orbit finish DA.
Then go to your buffer like already posted 3M makes some decent compounds. 3M green foam for the 3000 compound then the grey pad for the 3M machine polish compound.
 
There is 4 or more coats or clear on the truck. All wet sanding has been done by hand not with a DA. The buffer is a random orbit not a rotary.
 
There is 4 or more coats or clear on the truck. All wet sanding has been done by hand not with a DA. The buffer is a random orbit not a rotary.
That is good. Plus plenty of clear to work with, As long as you did not get on it to soon like slimt said you should be good.
If you have been over the truck with 1500 wet and have it all knocked down flat the 3000 trizac wet should bring a shine up, then onto the compounds.
I used wool for years but do like the new 3M foam double sided pads.
white or green pad with the 3000/white compound for the 1st round mabey twice if your having trouble bringing up a gloss, then the black/grey pad for your final polish.
remember to work small areas and don't let the compound dry out while working it.
Good overlap on each area.
 
My pads should be here by the weekend. I will try and get the bed done and let you know the results. Thanks everyone.
 
Wool always for me too! I tried starting with the foam, and never got it to cut good enough to do the initial buff. Once I hit it with wool, then I can use the foams and the different polishes, glazes. I usually buff with wool and cutting compound then hit the panels with the foam pad polishing and glazing to rid of the tiny scratches and swirls. Another nice tool is the variable speed buffer if your nervous about burning through the clear and haven't done a ton of it.

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I used the blue, green, then yellow Rupes pads recommended above and my results are much better now! Thanks everyone!

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Looking good, I like the color combo on the two tone. works good together.
 
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