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Ring out the blue wire from the IGN switch to the VR

paladin06

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I have removed the IGN switch. I disconnected the blue wire at the VR. I'm trying to ring the wire out for resistance. It I touch one end of the wire with a lead and then the other lead to a good ground. Is that the correct process and what should I see as an Ohms level?
 
I have removed the IGN switch. I disconnected the blue wire at the VR. I'm trying to ring the wire out for resistance. It I touch one end of the wire with a lead and then the other lead to a good ground. Is that the correct process and what should I see as an Ohms level?

No. If you want to determine the resistance of a wire first remove BOTH ends from the circuit. The connect one test lead to one end and one test lead to the other end.
 
wire from ign switch to VR is not a resistance wire, it should read almost 0-ohms
 
wire from ign switch to VR is not a resistance wire, it should read almost 0-ohms

Actually you should get the same reading as touching the two ends of the meter leads together - which equates to the resistance of the test leads plus a minuscule extra amount. :)
 
What Kiwi said...Paladin what you are doing as far as what you are describing is shooting to ground. You wouldn't shoot to ground using the resistance setting you would use the continuity setting on the meter which also happens to be the setting that beeps at you to let you know there is continuity there.
 
OK, I have noticed that when I put my IGN switch in the accessory position, my volt meter shows 12 volts. When I put it in the first position before start it drops to below 11 volts. Could this indicate a bad switch?
 
where are you getting those readings from? the switch or somewhere else in the circuit?
 
That blue wire feeds a few more things than the VR. Coil,Ign Module,alt. You may want to unhook all that too before checking voltage drop.
 
blue wire when cranking is feeded back from Ballast resistor, not really STRAIGHT from ign switch. Ign switch cuts off the blue circuit when cranking, since the ballast bypass circuit on cranking position is enough to keep working the rest of the running circuit from ballast.

dunno what year are we talking about, but on 70s and lates at least, the ACC switch position shouldn't be feed the running circuit, just accesories.
 
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