RTR Distributor/relay help please

Electrical & Ignition

  1. 1badmfm

    1badmfm Well-Known Member

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    So I really need some help i have a 1966 dodge coronet with a 1976 auto trans,, i bought a ready to run 1 wire HEI distributor that has coil built into it . I'm having problems wiring the starter relay.. right now the batt post on relay has a 10 gauge wire running to positive battery terminal and a fusible link going into bulkhead. The square sol. Terminal on relay has a wire going to the starter solenoid. And the main positive terminal from battery is going to large stud on starter. I have the ground terminal on relay ran to neg post of battery for now to bypass the Neutral safety switch. And finally the blue wire with tracer is hooked to ign terminal on relay. It will not crank or do anything .. what do I have wrong? Please help this wiring is supposed to be simple and get rid of the ign box, ballast, coil etc.
     
  2. Nacho-RT74

    Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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    Ign terminal of relay must get a yellow wire coming from ign switch throught the bulkhead, not blue... wondering from where it comes that blue wire around starter relay ¿?¿?¿?¿?
     
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    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      Ok so yellow from bulkhead to ign terminal on relay. The blue w/tracer is only hot with key on.
       
    • Nacho-RT74

      Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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      but if you conected the blue one it should crank constantly as soon you put the key in RUN
       
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      Yeah I'm not getting any of that. , wait stupid question..do I need to have dash cluster hooked up ? Because it's currently out of car
       
    • Nacho-RT74

      Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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      It needs to get ammeter wires linked together, if not the ignition switch will never get power. Since they are eyelet terminals, use a screw and nut to hold them together and tape them for safety, because power is stopping at the red wire terminal. Black amm wire is the one which spreads the power all around. Rest of cluster wires doesn't matter

      Maybe you got luck the red wire is not touching anything around because you were blown the fuse link
       
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      Ok , well luckily nothing has burnt up yet . Thanks for that info il get the ammeter wires hooked up .
      Would the blue wire work for the 12 v feed to distributor since it is only hot with key on?
       
    • Nacho-RT74

      Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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      RTR distributors needs to get full 12 volts on Start ( blue wire ) and Crank ( Brown wire ) stages. The ballast doesn't allows that while you are in Run to protect the coil on the blue wire running to coil section ( brown since 1970 ) so...

      https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/msd-distributor-should-i-use-a-relay.189484/

      Tipically everybody removes ballast and splice all wires together, but I think is "coolest" to keep the stock look on engine bay. And easier to get it back if needed or wished.
       
      Last edited: Mar 22, 2020
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      I currently have no ballast resistor , ign box. Because I was told I didnt need any of that. So to keep this simple I'd just like to get my car running as soon as I can. So you are saying I can splice the blue and brown wire from bulkhead together and run it to distributor?
       
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      One other scenario I'm in, I have put a single wire altenator on and need to know what wire from bulkhead or relay goes to it to get its 12 v feed when ign is on ?
       
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      Sorry for all the questions. I really appreciate your knowledge on this Nacho RT74, I cannot wait to get my mopar running again!
       
    • Nacho-RT74

      Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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      yes, All 3 former ballast wires spliced together, since the original blue wire to coil will feed it

      Same than the one for the RTR. However a REAL single wire alt should get just the wire coming from ammeter to the alt output stud. I think you meant an alt with an internal regulator which work like old Chebbbbies ? LOL, which needs to be "excited" from ign switch

      not a problem. I can't say I'm the most knowledge guy on this. There are couple of more electricians techs around with more tech knowledgement than me, just hat I don't have life at this moment and I'm surfing around boards allmost at any time LOL. Trying to share what I have learnt.
       
      Last edited: Mar 22, 2020
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      Yes I actually had a new 100 amp chebby alt on the shelf so I made a set of brackets and put it on my mopar, which I thought hey I have it let's make it work lol. So with that being said I should run the wire from ammeter wire to the alternator?
       
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      Do you happen to know which 3 wires from bulkhead I need to splice together to run to distributor? Blue, brown , ?? And where they come from ?
       
    • Nacho-RT74

      Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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      well the same wire the original alt it had to the alt stud must be used on the CHEBBBBBBY alt stud. No change on that.

      Now, you had a mech regulator feeding the field brush on the original alt... you can splice the old green and blue wires the regulator had, and use the green wire end in front of the engine to feed the CHEEEEBBBBBBBY alt ign signal.

      I'm just thinking like you still have the wires around on harness, and how to reuse for the new purpouse
       
    • Nacho-RT74

      Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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      ballast got three wires.... two blues and one brown.... one of the blues was already spliced into the brown one to bypass the ballast to the coil ( that was the original coil wire + lead )... well, splice all 3 together.

      as said on my previous reply:

      I'm just thinking like you still have the wires around on harness, and how to reuse the existant ones for the new purpouse
       
    • Nacho-RT74

      Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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      and if existant wires are still in good conditions to be reused of course
       
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      I wish that I had original wiring harness but unfortunately I am starting from scratch so all I have original is wires from inside car out through bulkhead
       
    • Nacho-RT74

      Nacho-RT74 Well-Known Member

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      ok, in that case making it simple would be:

      splice together both wires coming from ign switch... brown and blue. From there you can spread the power for all the engine around to use it as an Ign switch signal forn any device requiring it, no matter if RUN or START, since they are now together

      Chrysler uses these signals separated from factory, being Blue Ign1 or RUN and brown Ign2 or START just to bypass the ballast while cranking for maximun coil power on that stage.

      The only START signal will remain from ign switch will be the yellow one which is the one for the starter relay and must be feeded just in START.
       
    • 1badmfm

      1badmfm Well-Known Member

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      Ok I'm going to try this today and see where I get il update u on this later !!
       
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