Switched from wanting a 4 link to Caltracs in the course of this thread.But sliders or shackles?

[biomedtechguy]

I was getting so much separation that the shackle would swing ahead as far as it could, after that is when the tires got yanked off the track.

That would SUCK, and I don't see why I'd even want to risk that happening, but some on this thread say sliders are not necessary?? They certainly must not be having the problem you had.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Bio all my cal trac stuff got put to good use under the winter project!
View attachment 866983

looks beautiful!
So do those slider pads normally weld on unless I make a bracket, weld them to the bracket, and then bolt the bracket to the frame-through existing holes or holes that have to be drilled?

 

[malex]

That would SUCK, and I don't see why I'd even want to risk that happening, but some on this thread say sliders are not necessary?? They certainly must not be having the problem you had.

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I was hitting it pretty hard and the QA1's couldn't hold the rear. I'm certain that with re-valving they would have worked better. In my experience, if you've got big power, spend the money on good good good rear shocks and you should be ok. My right side shock mount bracket even bent at the stud. It was a Calvert bracket. Likely what helped the very most was turning up the front shock rebound, that settled things down. Lots of guys here in FBBO helped me immensely with my cal tracs.

 

[malex]

looks beautiful!
So do those slider pads normally weld on unless I make a bracket, weld them to the bracket, and then bolt the bracket to the frame-through existing holes or holes that have to be drilled?

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They are weld on. I made the brackets and drilled holes.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Why could the sliders not be mounted by using the frame shackle hole, an aluminum shackle bushing and bolt. Using a similar type bracket as the two bolt one.
This was just an idea that would not require new holes to the frame.

 

[biomedtechguy]

spend the money on good good good rear shocks and you should be ok

I already have Viking double adjustable front shocks. If Viking double adjustable shocks are the BEST choice for the rear, so be it, but at $78 plus some bracket fab, it just seems silly not to do sliders. If I understand you correctly, I'd have 4 holes drilled through my frame, and that's not as intrusive as welding them in.

 

[bearman]

Bio all my cal trac stuff got put to good use under the winter project!
View attachment 866983

damnit melax that dart is looking great. Nice

 

[bearman]

Question should we have any concerns about the shock towers. As we beef up the hp and the rest of the suspension should we consider a better rear shock tower. Or did any of you beef up what's there or just leave it alone.

 

[Hemirunner]

That would SUCK, and I don't see why I'd even want to risk that happening, but some on this thread say sliders are not necessary?? They certainly must not be having the problem you had.

No issues here. I’ve been 1.44 60’ on cal-tracs, split monos, shackles, strange double adjustables, 275 drag radials with a 3.73 gear at 4100lbs. Went 6.10@116 to the 1/8th with the same setup. No issues with shackles here.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I'm inclined to just start with the Calvert shackles, the ones for my car and the split mono leaf springs, along with the rest of the Caltracs setup.
I'm pretty excited about making these changes, because between being able to steer (new QA1 K-member and front suspension) stop (new 4 wheel disc brake system) I can install the line lock, and with the relative ease of installation of the Caltracs setup, I'm well on my way to hooking up off the line. At some point, I'll get my Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing in, and that's going to happen soon because the TO bearing I have now is worn out from not enough free space.
It makes sense to install the HitMaster at that time since it plumbs in to the hydraulic lines. I'll have to see if the clutch disc I have is up to slipping under power, or I'll have to replace it. I hope the diaphragm style 2,900# pressure plate is good to go....

 

[Ceedawg]

The only difference I see between sliders or shackles is the sliders would have less side to side movement. If not enough shackle angle put spacers to move the bracket foward. I’ll be using a 4 speed with Catracs and was going the radial route,? what’s a good bias tire for the street then?

 

[biomedtechguy]

I’ll be using a 4 speed with Catracs and was going the radial route,? what’s a good bias tire for the street then?

I don't believe that there is a "good bias tire" for the street. If after all of the immediate traction improving things I have or have lined out don't get me to an acceptable level of grip and go, a bias ply track tire is what I'd consider, but I don't think I'd "drive around" on bias ply tires.
Here's the direction I was pointed in. I would try to see if the 17" M/T tire shown would fit in the fenderwells and work with the aluminum Rallye wheels. With bias ply rear tires, I'd also likely have to have skinny front tires or bias ply skinny front tires so as to not have stability or handling problems from what I've read and heard.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/mickey-thompson-et-street-r-bias-tire.html

 

[Ceedawg]

I don't believe that there is a "good bias tire" for the street. If after all of the immediate traction improving things I have or have lined out don't get me to an acceptable level of grip and go, a bias ply track tire is what I'd consider, but I don't think I'd "drive around" on bias ply tires.
Here's the direction I was pointed in. I would try to see if the 17" M/T tire shown would fit in the fenderwells and work with the aluminum Rallye wheels. With bias ply rear tires, I'd also likely have to have skinny front tires or bias ply skinny front tires so as to not have stability or handling problems from what I've read and heard.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/mickey-thompson-et-street-r-bias-tire.html

Ok!

 

[Dan64]

Bio ,keep in mind that you will want to make your decision on which way you want to go with sliders or shackles before you order your springs due to the fact that your car will sit lower with sliders. You could play with ride height using the front spring mount to fine tune but you'l want to do all that before you set your new pinion angle.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Bio all my cal trac stuff got put to good use under the winter project!
View attachment 866983

Your feed & return go into the rail,are they run through the rail or go through and run the outside of the rail?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Some of you may be belly laughing, and I'm trying to learn, and I definitely don't have money to piss away. It's taken me a year to save enough to buy my disc brakes and pay to have the QA1 K-member and front suspension system installed.

I hear what your saying! I paid almost double for the made in the USA slider,,,,,still wonder if they are both made over there and just put in a box that says MADE IN THE USA. Too many items we have no choice other then the off shore product but I try my best to support USA made
Why are a few of you against welding the sliders in place???

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

On the bias/radial debate,,,,,when the radial hooks they are slightly faster in ET and 3 MPH faster. I have several friends with BIG hp cars and when they go to the track there were so many times the radial would not hook. If they have a set of bias to change to it might save the day. If not they just go home.
I hear about different track prep and suspension changes needed for the radial,but don't know what they are.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Why are a few of you against welding the sliders in place???

Because of @vintage chromoly ....
I'm afraid if I weld anything to my car that isn't original, he's going to hunt me down like I'm an escaped felon...

Actually, if I can do the "make a bracket" and weld the slider to the bracket, then bolt the bracket to the frame, and that only means drilling 4 holes for the bolts to go through, and that works as good as welding but is reversible, I'm ok with that.

Bio ,keep in mind that you will want to make your decision on which way you want to go with sliders or shackles before you order your springs due to the fact that your car will sit lower with sliders.

I was thinking about that. As I was picturing the assembly, I thought "hey! shackles are going to raise the back vs sliders. If I use a fabricated bracket so I can bolt the assembly to the frame, that will make it slightly higher than just straight welding the slider to the frame.
I'm not really sure what height to choose?? If my current rear springs are weak as I suspect they are, the car is probably low compared to where it should be. So it's possible that the "-1" would put me at the ride height I'm at now, possibly higher!
The other thing is if I go +1 that will give me a better chance of fitting a tire as wide as possible and not having it rub against the inverted "U" that is the top of the wheelwell. I can play with the torsion bars to adjust the height of the front.
So there may be a couple of reasons to go +1 when I order the springs....
Here are the Mickey Thompson bias ply drag tires. Definitely NOT for the street, because they'd be DEADLY in the rain, and sloppy too. There are a few sizes that will work with the Year One 9" aluminum Rallye wheels that I have now, the 5" backspacing works PERFECTLY with the stock suspension, leaf spring position, etc.
https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/drag-tires/et-street-r
Here are the 17" sizes, and I believe there are at least 3 of them that will fit my aluminum 9" Rallye wheels and not rub on ANYTHING!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Because of @vintage chromoly ....
I'm afraid if I weld anything to my car that isn't original, he's going to hunt me down like I'm an escaped felon...

Actually, if I can do the "make a bracket" and weld the slider to the bracket, then bolt the bracket to the frame, and that only means drilling 4 holes for the bolts to go through, and that works as good as welding but is reversible, I'm ok with that.

Welding it on is very reversable without drilling holes in the rail.I installed the sliders and welded them in place,,,,,,,just too far back.Had "UNweld them to move them so they were not hitting
Whatever mods you make should also be done with the least amount of weight

I also use the 16.5 X 31 E/T street bias.There is nothing I can use to be able to hook from a stop!! But from a roll,,,,,,,,,

 

[biomedtechguy]

I also use the 16.5 X 31 E/T street bias.There is nothing I can use to be able to hook from a stop!! But from a roll,,,,,,,,,

Yeah....
Well I'm not sure what your very impressive street driven
supercharged Gen 2 HEMI cranks out HP/TQ but if I go factory block, I'm looking for 600HP/650TQ. If I go with an aftermarket block, then I'll likely be closer to 650HP/700TQ and a 200HP nitrous shot on top of that.
This is my next TRACK ONLY tire if the changes I make still don't provide off the line traction to where I get my 60ft times down (but I think the stuff I'm doing and adding will-at least with my current motor)
https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/drag-tires/et-street-r