Switched from wanting a 4 link to Caltracs in the course of this thread.But sliders or shackles?

[bearman]

Bio, I'm going to use them for the first time in my car will be doing the bolt on like above. I see some help as the car raising in the back pushing the spring down should help on take off. Can't give you any better still waiting to get the damn thing together.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I'm going to use them for the first time in my car will be doing the bolt on like above.

Yes, since vintagechromoly has me paranoid now about welding anything to my car, it's nice that there seems to be a completely functional, reliable method of attaching the sliders yet making them bolt on thus reversible.
Any idea if those bolts go through existing holes? My guess is "yes" but I'd have to go look.

 

[Dennis H]

I shouldn’t be in the racer forum, but for street the Caltracs did not work for my friends ‘Cuda. A Buckboard. Awful street manners. Now running 3200 lb super stock springs, slapper bars, and Bilsteins. Works good and ride is survivable.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Bio, I'm going to use them for the first time in my car will be doing the bolt on like above. I see some help as the car raising in the back pushing the spring down should help on take off. Can't give you any better still waiting to get the damn thing together.

The rise and pushing the spring down can be accomplished without sliders. The only real advantage I see is the rear eye angle doesn't pivot. But other than the ability to control the straight line 1320 is that really an advantage? Some had said yes others no.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I shouldn’t be in the racer forum, but for street the Caltracs did not work for my friends ‘Cuda. A Buckboard. Awful street manners. Now running 3200 lb super stock springs, slapper bars, and Bilsteins. Works good and ride is survivable.

Don't caltracks need a different setup for street use then track use? Could explain the buckboard ride.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I shouldn’t be in the racer forum, but for street the Caltracs did not work for my friends ‘Cuda. A Buckboard. Awful street manners. Now running 3200 lb super stock springs, slapper bars, and Bilsteins. Works good and ride is survivable.

Don't caltracks need a different setup for street use then track use? Could explain the buckboard ride.

I figure backing off the preload and with double adjustable shocks (that I'm inclined to get instead of single adjustable) that should help tame the ride for the cruise??

 

[Dennis H]

B Bodies are like Cadillacs compared to E Bodies. But that ride was awful.

 

[NSS Guy]

I just read thru most of this post. A couple of things to think about, installing an exhaust system with ladder bars or a 4 link will be trying. Leaf springs will allow the most room to keep the exhaust tucked up neatly under the car. If your car is a 4 speed, any kind of drag radials will not work, stick cars need to run a bias tire.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I just read thru most of this post. A couple of things to think about, installing an exhaust system with ladder bars or a 4 link will be trying. Leaf springs will allow the most room to keep the exhaust tucked up neatly under the car. If your car is a 4 speed, any kind of drag radials will not work, stick cars need to run a bias tire.

Care to elaborate on the stick car needs to run bias. I have gone from bias to radial and back. I well never buy a bias again.

 

[biomedtechguy]

From my novice perspective, what I've heard, read, been told, is bias ply drag tires are more pliable, "softer", more flexible, and all of that helps compensate for the typically "hard" hit of a manual transmission.
Now it seems like the Clutch Tamer and HitMaster launch control systems are not all that well known on this forum, but if what I read and what the rare forum member here has posted, it's going to be EXACTLY what I have wanted for 15 years or so.
Once I switched to drag radials on my 89 Conquest TSi, that was only a low 14 second car but came out the hole strong through the 1/8th mile, I lost the tire spin that actually served me and the tiny turbo pretty well. Instead of any spin, I had to try to feather the clutch so as to not come off boost, and most of the time I let the clutch out too much/too fast.
So the 2 products I mentioned are designed to slow the hit, and are adjustable, and I've been wanting a hydraulic clutch T.O. bearing anyway to see if it would make operating the 2,900 pound pressure plate easier on the ol' knee. I bought a Hydramax when I was dealing for the TKO600 for the GTO with American Powertrain. The added benefit is I can use the HitMaster, which I think is a little more flexible, reliable, and tunable than the strictly mechanical Clutchtamer.
I absolutely will let yall know in a dedicated thread.

 

[mopar 3 B]

From my novice perspective, what I've heard, read, been told, is bias ply drag tires are more pliable, "softer", more flexible, and all of that helps compensate for the typically "hard" hit of a manual transmission.
Now it seems like the Clutch Tamer and HitMaster launch control systems are not all that well known on this forum, but if what I read and what the rare forum member here has posted, it's going to be EXACTLY what I have wanted for 15 years or so.
Once I switched to drag radials on my 89 Conquest TSi, that was only a low 14 second car but came out the hole strong through the 1/8th mile, I lost the tire spin that actually served me and the tiny turbo pretty well. Instead of any spin, I had to try to feather the clutch so as to not come off boost, and most of the time I let the clutch out too much/too fast.
So the 2 products I mentioned are designed to slow the hit, and are adjustable, and I've been wanting a hydraulic clutch T.O. bearing anyway to see if it would make operating the 2,900 pound pressure plate easier on the ol' knee. I bought a Hydramax when I was dealing for the TKO600 for the GTO with American Powertrain. The added benefit is I can use the HitMaster, which I think is a little more flexible, reliable, and tunable than the strictly mechanical Clutchtamer.
I absolutely will let yall know in a dedicated thread.

Will be waiting to see how that all pans out.

 

[Dodge 330]

I shouldn’t be in the racer forum, but for street the Caltracs did not work for my friends ‘Cuda. A Buckboard. Awful street manners. Now running 3200 lb super stock springs, slapper bars, and Bilsteins. Works good and ride is survivable.

LOL! Was he using the stock, multi-leaf springs with the Cal-Trac bars? Mine porpoised BADLY with that combo and stock shocks.

I have A-body length springs in mine (because '63 segments are the same as a-body) and all I do for a nice, smooth ride is put the Calver shocks on #4. Goes to #9 for strip. I did mount my shocks more vertical but did not test back to back.

Sliders are not needed for what the OP is doing, IMO. Put some firmer poly bushings on the shackles and you'll be good to go.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I like the difference the sliders gave me.Also lowered the rear of the car.If I did it again I would buy the Caltrac slider as they come with the right bushings for the Cal spring as the Afco came with the S/S spring bushing which is different than the Caltrac.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I would buy the Caltrac slider as they come with the right bushings for the Cal spring as the Afco came with the S/S spring bushing which is different than the Caltrac.

I saw that in the Afco "comments" section, that the guy had to modify a part. I think the Speedway slider is a different width?
Heck, if Calvert makes a slider for their split mono leaf, unless there's a duplicate, well THAT is what I would use (if I use a slider). I do like the idea of welding the slider to a U bracket and then bolting that to the frame.
Tomorrow I can play like I know what I'm looking for and go see if the bolt holes are already there in the frame, presumably for something that gets replaced?
If any of you know if the holes that this bolts thru are stock, please let me know?
I wrote the ??s I have on the picture.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Actually it looks like the Speedway sliders for Chrysler mono leaf springs work fine, and at $78/pair vs $189/pair for the Calvert...
Well I'm not sure I see a real difference worth $110...

 

[malex]

I saw that in the Afco "comments" section, that the guy had to modify a part. I think the Speedway slider is a different width?
Heck, if Calvert makes a slider for their split mono leaf, unless there's a duplicate, well THAT is what I would use (if I use a slider). I do like the idea of welding the slider to a U bracket and then bolting that to the frame.
Tomorrow I can play like I know what I'm looking for and go see if the bolt holes are already there in the frame, presumably for something that gets replaced?
If any of you know if the holes that this bolts thru are stock, please let me know?
I wrote the ??s I have on the picture. View attachment 866982

---
The "what's this" is the factory body bracket, and the tube is for the shackles. The bolts held the slider in place. I was getting so much separation that the shackle would swing ahead as far as it could, after that is when the tires got yanked off the track. The sliders gave me more travel.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Will be waiting to see how that all pans out.

Some of you may be belly laughing, and I'm trying to learn, and I definitely don't have money to piss away. It's taken me a year to save enough to buy my disc brakes and pay to have the QA1 K-member and front suspension system installed.

 

[biomedtechguy]

and the tube is for the shackles.

That's what I was thinking without going to look.

The bolts held the slider in place.

The bolts go through a bracket the guy made.
Do these sliders weld in or bolt in place once the shackles are removed assuming I get the ones made for my car and the Calvert Chrysler mono leaf springs?

 

[malex]

I saw that in the Afco "comments" section, that the guy had to modify a part. I think the Speedway slider is a different width?
Heck, if Calvert makes a slider for their split mono leaf, unless there's a duplicate, well THAT is what I would use (if I use a slider). I do like the idea of welding the slider to a U bracket and then bolting that to the frame.
Tomorrow I can play like I know what I'm looking for and go see if the bolt holes are already there in the frame, presumably for something that gets replaced?
If any of you know if the holes that this bolts thru are stock, please let me know?
I wrote the ??s I have on the picture. View attachment 866982

Bio all my cal trac stuff got put to good use under the winter project!

 

[mopar 3 B]

Some of you may be belly laughing, and I'm trying to learn, and I definitely don't have money to piss away. It's taken me a year to save enough to buy my disc brakes and pay to have the QA1 K-member and front suspension system installed.

Not laughing, just waiting to see what works and what doesn't for some one else.