Take educated guess?

[69Runner]

IF you could lodge a breaker bar with socket somewhere safe, and IF nothing else was in the way, maybe bumping the engine with the starter would loosen it? Also, I would think you want to avoid using heat. Anyhow gather some more opinions first, looks like there's no room for an impact wrench.

DISCLAIMER: I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS!

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Ya I have a breaker bar...I thought about that...AFTER I tore the dang pass side valve train apart (of course)...I saw a guy heat up a crank bolt on YOUtube while looking for tricks out of desperation. Figured I'd try it. Nope. Ugh. This is the ONLY thing standing in the way. Car has been sitting for days up on jack stands. I can't believe my luck

 

[Longroof]

You need a compressor and a pneumatic impact.. problem will be solved in 5 seconds.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Yeah. You can bet I wish I had that.
Meanwhile since I don't gotta find something else that might work. Anyone ever slide rope into the cylinder, bring the piston up so that the rope stops it (softly)? The only problem I see is the rope potentially becoming stuck (somehow) in the cylinder. Wouldn't happen to anyone else, but me....murphy's law rule of the day.

 

[texas69bee]

Take the dust cover off and expose the fly wheel. Thread a grade 8 bolt, 3 inches long where clutch would bolt(remove existing bolt first) wedge a pry bar between bolt and bell housing bottom. As you turn , the fly wheel will turn and lock the bolt up against the pry bar. Do the same thing when torquing back down but from the opposite side.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Take the dust cover off and expose the fly wheel. Thread a grade 8 bolt, 3 inches long where clutch would bolt(remove existing bolt first) wedge a pry bar between bolt and bell housing bottom. As you turn , the fly wheel will turn and lock the bolt up against the pry bar. Do the same thing when torquing back down but from the opposite side.

Thanks '69Bee....I just wanna be sure....this is where you talking about threading grade 8 bolt into? I've never been into the transmission..not that familiar with what is where...FSM isnt that clear...flex plate is bolts?

 

[texas69bee]

It's similar but to different to do the way I did it. I failed to read all comments to realize it was an automatic. If the tranny is off, is there a way to secure the flex plate? The torque on the bolt you are removing is 130 ft/lbs. there should be, I believe 6 bolts holding the plate to the crank. If you can remove that then put 2 bolts 3 inches long then use a long extension to weave in a position to create some leverage. Imagine bolts coming straight out, extension will be on opposite sides of each bolt and perpendicular. Let me know if this helps.

 

[texas69bee]

I will try to post a pic later today on how I did mine.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

It's similar but to different to do the way I did it. I failed to read all comments to realize it was an automatic. If the tranny is off, is there a way to secure the flex plate? The torque on the bolt you are removing is 130 ft/lbs. there should be, I believe 6 bolts holding the plate to the crank. If you can remove that then put 2 bolts 3 inches long then use a long extension to weave in a position to create some leverage. Imagine bolts coming straight out, extension will be on opposite sides of each bolt and perpendicular. Let me know if this helps.

No problem. No, the transmission is still in the car. Yeh, I knew the crank bolt is on there pretty good. I've just about tried everything (except the air gun, which I don't have). I tried putting a wrench between bolts, one threaded into the block and one into the face of the balancer. The one bolt threaded into the block began to bend as I pushed the breaker bar over. (the pic is just representational, not mine). I REALLY don't want to jam a screw driver between the teeth of the flywheel (yea someone has suggested that).

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

You don't have a cordless or air impact gun? Is there a local shop or parts house around that rents tools?


http://www.pioneerrentalsinc.com/tools/autotool.htm

 

[HT413]

Here's what works for me: wedge a screw driver "handle side in" in between the converter teeth and the bell housing, so the plastic handle is wedged in there against one of the trans bolt locations. Then as you turn the crank bolt, it will resist you just fine. Once you're ready to reinstall that bolt, you will have to remove and reposition that screw driver handle so you can apply torque in the other direction.

I've also used some 2x3 lumber that I cut down to the right size.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

You don't have a cordless or air impact gun? Is there a local shop or parts house around that rents tools?

http://www.pioneerrentalsinc.com/tools/autotool.htm

Yeh, I think there is an outfit nearby that rents tools (I live in the boondocks)...I guess that will be the last resort.

- - - Updated - - -

Here's what works for me: wedge a screw driver "handle side in" in between the converter teeth and the bell housing, so the plastic handle is wedged in there against one of the trans bolt locations. Then as you turn the crank bolt, it will resist you just fine. Once you're ready to reinstall that bolt, you will have to remove and reposition that screw driver handle so you can apply torque in the other direction.

I've also used some 2x3 lumber that I cut down to the right size.

That's an idea HT413..the plastic shouldn't be so hard as the metal end. Thanks.

 

[texas69bee]

Fly wheel is 3/4 inch thick. Not sure what it is with an automatic. The clutch is not in mine so it made it easy to lay the pry bar across. You might be able to get away with just putting in a longer grade 8 bolt and having it jam against the bell housing.just make sure it's a grade 8 bolt. The others will bend.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

View attachment 280017View attachment 280018View attachment 280019
Fly wheel is 3/4 inch thick. Not sure what it is with an automatic. The clutch is not in mine so it made it easy to lay the pry bar across. You might be able to get away with just putting in a longer grade 8 bolt and having it jam against the bell housing.just make sure it's a grade 8 bolt. The others will bend.

Thanks '69bee..it is a bit different with automatic,but this gives me some ideas.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Well...gave that a go. Screw driver kept falling out DESPITE the fact I even hammered it in good and snug between the teeth of the fly wheel and the bell house wall. You can't see it but the other end of the screw driver (phillips head) is resting on the suspension bar. The amount of push I have to put on the breaker bar trying to get the bolt to pop just causes the teeth to dig into the screw driver handle until it starts to move.
THIS ONE stupid thing is delaying everything else,,....half dozen new parts sitting on the bench...two full days JUST trying to break the grip of this bolt...unbelievable.....seems like this always goes easier for others. UGH.

 

[Longroof]

You need a compressor and a pneumatic impact.. problem will be solved in 5 seconds.

Ready to get that bolt out yet?

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Ready to get that bolt out yet?

Yea. Gimme a sec, gotta yank some money of the tree out back. Seriously though the problem is not the bolt. It trying to keep the flywheel from turning. What good are fancy air tools gonna do If I can't keep the fly wheel from spinning? They'll just spin the flywheel faster?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I wouldnt bother renting a cordless impact. That probably wont budge it. I dont know how crafty you are, but you could make a tool to fit in the balancer to hold it so you can break the bolt loose. Like this



- - - Updated - - -

IF you could lodge a breaker bar with socket somewhere safe, and IF nothing else was in the way, maybe bumping the engine with the starter would loosen it? Also, I would think you want to avoid using heat. Anyhow gather some more opinions first, looks like there's no room for an impact wrench.

DISCLAIMER: I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS!

Funny story, one of the instructors at the chrysler training center i go to has some great stories from when he was a tech. Early in his career he worked for gm, and one of his stories involves trying to break a crank bolt loose in this very way. Long story short he hit the key at the same time his manager was walking through the shop. When he hit the key, it threw the breaker bar half way across the shop, hitting the manager in the head and knocking him out cold. Lol.

 

[1967coronet]

That bolt if its at factory spec is at 135LBs even if someone nailed it on with a impact its prob around 200 lbs.
Harbor freight has a 1/2 drive {plug in, not battery} electric impact rated at 250 lbs for $45, yep I know its a cheap one and wont last forever but it will be darn handy to have around , someone else already mentioned getting a electric impact , I got to vote for that also. That $45 impact and a cheap set of deep well 1/2 drive impact sockets { prob another $25 } will make your life better.
The impact wont spin the engine , it hammers the bolt loose.

If needed , tell the better half that impact and sockets will save you $$, You can now rotate her tires plus all other kinds of handy projects she wont have to pay for once that you have your new impact wrench.

 

[451Mopar]

Since the rocker shaft is removed (valves won't open), remove a spark plug and rotate the engine to put the piston down in the cylinder. Fill the cylinder with rope and when the rope is compressed against the head the engine will not rotate. Now you can remove the balancer bolt. If you wiped out the cam, the lifter may have not been spinning the lifter bore easely like it should. Hughes Engines sells a lifter bore burnishing ball that helps re-size and align the lifter bores.
When I wiped out a cam, the metal shavings scratched up the inside of the oil pump and the cylinder walls pretty good. I actually just pulled the engine at that point and had it re-honed, new rings and bearings, oil pump and the cam and lifters.