What Carb do I need

[RJRENTON]

Let me guess you like efi?

YES.....ABSOLUTELY.....JUST NOT ON OLD IRON. My Escalade's 6.2 L making 420 hp and Buick Envision 2.5 L making 200 hp, electronics and EFI make it all possible.....but....the old 1970 RS23VOA****** GTX, just wouldn't be the same with EFI.....I still like the cold starting, stumbling, until warmed up plus 7-8 MPG, and when all carbs open up....... !!!!!!....wonderful...almost as good as sex...almost....
BOB RENTON

 

[440 Charger]

YES.....ABSOLUTELY.....JUST NOT ON OLD IRON. My Escalade's 6.2 L making 420 hp and Buick Envision 2.5 L making 200 hp, electronics and EFI make it all possible.....but....the old 1970 RS23VOA****** GTX, just wouldn't be the same with EFI.....I still like the cold starting, stumbling, until warmed up plus 7-8 MPG, and when all carbs open up....... !!!!!!....wonderful...almost as good as sex...almost....
BOB RENTON

Then thats great for you .

 

[Curiousyellow71]

We've went to a Tanks, Inc gas tank with a in-tank walbro fuel pump . We use a pressure regulator with a return to a holley 850. No more cranking on start up now, the pump is quiet and with slicks we finally don't have to worry about the car starving for gas...and if we decide to do fuel injection that part is ready.

 

[MelroseMopar]

Your pix shows a Throttle Body type of injection system, similar to the mid '80s GM offerings, which the injector(s) assembies were mounted above the throttle plates, pulsed on by the ECU, and the fuel sprayed in, above the throttle plates and was carried down stream There was a throttle position sensor to know how much the throttle plates were open and to act as the accelerator pump, delivering a momentary shot of fuel and a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor to know manifold vacuum for engine load....plus spark advance characteristics + RPM info + vehicle speed + temperature. Later, Multi Port Fuel Injection (MPI) was introduced, where all injectors were pulsed on at the same time for 1/N times the number engine cylinders, behind a closed intake valve except one which, for this example, received the 7 previous pulses plus the 8th pulse when the valve opened giving a full fuel charge to the cylinder. Later, the system evolved to individual injectors, pulsed on, immediately b4 the intake valve opened; controls were upgraded along with programming. The TBI system is, IMO, old technology but still functional. If this were a true fuel injection installation, the injector nozzles would be in the intake runners near the mounting flange, angled at the port centerline, supplied higher fuel pressure, supplied by a fuel rail. Would I spend the money for a TBI system....no...but its up to you, the car owner. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

I don't understand your use of the term "True Fuel injection system" Is there a fake one? If you are confused I have also enclosed the actual definition of fuel injection.


Typically, the only thing in common all fuel injection systems have is the lack of carburetion. There are two main functional principles of mixture formation systems for internal combustion engines: internal mixture formation, and external mixture formation. A fuel injection system that uses external mixture formation is called a manifold injection system; there exist two types of manifold injection systems: multi-point injection (port injection), and single-point injection (throttle-body injection). Internal mixture formation systems can be separated into direct and indirect injection systems. There exist several different varieties of both direct and indirect injection systems; the most common internal mixture formation fuel injection system is the common-rail injection system, a direct injection system. The term electronic fuel injection refers to any fuel injection system having an engine control unit.

For the individuals question I offered another option for his ability to introduce fuel into his cars engine using an incredibly easy to install and very efficient and reliable system. I would encourage you to create a reply to this posts creator extolling the far superior benefits of a system that include how in a "true fuel injection installation, the injector nozzles would be in the intake runners near the mounting flange, angled at the port centerline, supplied higher fuel pressure, supplied by a fuel rail."

Oh Just my opinion of course.

 

[RJRENTON]

I don't understand your use of the term "True Fuel injection system" Is there a fake one? If you are confused I have also enclosed the actual definition of fuel injection.


Typically, the only thing in common all fuel injection systems have is the lack of carburetion. There are two main functional principles of mixture formation systems for internal combustion engines: internal mixture formation, and external mixture formation. A fuel injection system that uses external mixture formation is called a manifold injection system; there exist two types of manifold injection systems: multi-point injection (port injection), and single-point injection (throttle-body injection). Internal mixture formation systems can be separated into direct and indirect injection systems. There exist several different varieties of both direct and indirect injection systems; the most common internal mixture formation fuel injection system is the common-rail injection system, a direct injection system. The term electronic fuel injection refers to any fuel injection system having an engine control unit.

For the individuals question I offered another option for his ability to introduce fuel into his cars engine using an incredibly easy to install and very efficient and reliable system. I would encourage you to create a reply to this posts creator extolling the far superior benefits of a system that include how in a "true fuel injection installation, the injector nozzles would be in the intake runners near the mounting flange, angled at the port centerline, supplied higher fuel pressure, supplied by a fuel rail."

Oh Just my opinion of course.

I'm aware of the semantic differences. "True" fuel injection could refer to a diesel engine type or more recently GDI or Gasoline Direct Injection, where the fuel is introduced directly to the combustion chamber under very high pressure (~ 1500 psi). Some of the diesel engine types used mechanical injection (Cummins pressure-time) method or the Roosamaster mechanical pressure timed sydtem or the old Rochester mechanical as used on the early Corvettes. It boils down to definition TBI, MPI, DI, OR GDI.....which is correct? Depends on one's viewpoint.
BOB RENTON

 

[PRHeads]

If the cam has kind of a lumpy idle and the engine vacuum at idle is 12-14” or less, I think you’ll have an easier time getting the low speed manners dialed in with a Holley type carb.

A carb kit is worth a try since they’re inexpensive and installation is pretty easy.
If it doesn’t work out 100%, you haven’t invested much, and you have a part you can sell to help offset the cost of the replacement.

My personal opinion is the original Torker 440 is a very under appreciated manifold for a hot Street combo.

 

[66Satellite47]

The Torker can work excellent on the 440 especially with the 4 spd. A Holley double pump in the 750 - 850 range would be good with some tuning effort. A 3310-1 is a little easier to get real good performance.

 

[dodgedream]

Thanks for the input I really appreciate all of the input and now to start setting goals and priorities

 

[1967coronet]

I never did see what size of eddy the op has on his torker.
If it is at least a 750 he can get rods and jets plus a spring kit if needed.
Get the floats set and they are not to hard to tune.

 

[dodgedream]

All I know about the carb is that it is a 1407 edelbrock

 

[1967coronet]

All I know about the carb is that it is a 1407 edelbrock

Good , you have a 750 cfm carb.
Me ..
I would purchase the edelbrock rebuild kit and clean the carb inside and out and install the kit.
Follow edelbrocks instructions on settings.
750s are a good carb and decent size for your 440. Pretty straight forward to rebuild , I would not buy any extra springs and jets ect. Until you see how it runs after the rebuild.

 

[66Satellite47]

The 750 CFM should be just fine. Good luck on the rebuild. Tuning & parts MAY help, maybe not.

 

[dodgedream]

Kit has been ordered. Will rebuild it within the next 3 weeks when I have time and will let you know here how it turns out

 

[1967coronet]

Kit has been ordered. Will rebuild it within the next 3 weeks when I have time and will let you know here how it turns out

Get a can of brake clean to spray through all the passages.
Myself I like it better than carb cleaner it will not swell orings and seals and other rubber parts if you get any on them.
You will also want a good hollow ground straight blade screw driver for jet removal.

 

[dodgedream]

I gave a gallon of paint thinner to soak the metal parts in to clean the varnish out and then will start blowing out all the passages before I start reassembled and setup

 

[66Satellite47]

Not sure paint thinner is the best solvent to use. BrakeKleen is very effective for many things. Carb cleaner soaking is also a really good choice.

 

[Nevada dan]

edelbrock 800 will bolt right on and pull what your engine needs with no hassle , holly is great but can be confusing and time consuming if you dont know how to tune them unless you want to pay somebody $500 bucks or more to do it for you, JMO

 

[66-67-Belvedere]

Holler double pumpers are good for the track but not for the street as they tend to dump excessive fuel which can wash oil from the pistons and contaminate the oil. Richard Ehrenberg from Mopar Action has documented this over the years.

Holley carbs with vacuum-secondaries are good. See the 1903 or 4175 or 4160.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street/

I run a Carter AFB on by Belvedere and I have not had any issues. Good starting and running and I have not touched it in 20-years. Today, I would use an AVS2 as they are easy to tune.
Summit Racing -> Search AVS2 -> Pick 650 or 800 CFM.

You can look at the Factory Service Manual to see the OEM choices if you want to keep it original.

EFI is the way to go today if you want to spend and do not mind the looks.

Good luck choosing.

 

[66-67-Belvedere]

I just rebuilt a Carver BBD and the Berruman cleaner did a nice job of cleaning off all of the grime. Gunk brand is an alternate.

Local auto parts stores and Amazon
Berryman 0996 Chem-Dip Carburetor, 0.75 Gallon
Gunk CC3K Carburetor & Parts Cleaner with Drip Basket - 96 fl. oz.

 

[ExWrench]

ok I am starting down the rabbit hole now. I have the car in my possession (1967 coronet 500 with a 440/4 speed). I know the carb needs work so i need info from you guys with experience. the engine is a 440 with flat top pistons, headwork and a purpleshaft cam. the intake is a Torker with an edlebrock carb sitting on it. should I go thru the carb or go with something different and if so suggestions. Thanks in advance guys and you know all the specs of the engine as i know them right now.

Here's a very important tuning item especially if running a bigger cam; Measure your intake manifold vacuum at idle with warm engine. What ever the reading is, make sure your power valve in the carb is set to open at least 1 "Hg lower. Big cams usually result in low manifold vacuum and if the power valve isn't the correct setting for low vacuum, it will hang open at idle and load up the engine with too much fuel. When that happens, you can have engine stalling at idle, fouled spark plugs and worse, a lean backfire through the carb when you transfer off-idle onto the main jets. So if your manifold vacuum is at 6 or 7 "Hg, you want your power valve to be set to open at approx. 5.5 to 6.5 "Hg. Holley power valves come stamped with the vacuum setting on them, and are available in ranges from 10.5 down to 4.5"Hg. Happy tuning.