Propwash
Well-Known Member
I sure would....I use a metal wash then a wax/degreaser before priming/painting any surface. This is PPG, but folks like SEM, 3M, Eastwood..ect...ect... also make their own.
1969 Road Runner....another one!
- Thread starter Capt-Culver
- Start date
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
A good cleaning solution to wipe it off is a good idea.. Takes any oil residue, any foreign stuff that may be on it off.. I use a cleaner i got from the paint shop i buy everything from, Its been about 4 year now but ill get the name/numbers from it and let you know sometime in the AM.. It was 40 bucks for a gallon of it but well worth it. If you need this like now, ill go out to the garage and find it for you no problem..
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
OOPs Ya quick at the draw there prop, man i must type slow.. Case closed good luck Capt! 
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
No, not at all. Just trying to get my ducks in a row. We won't be blasting for a month or so. I've found that I'm always thinking 2 steps ahead...not sure if that's a good thing or not.
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Thanks Prop...I'll dig into it a little more.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
2 steps ahead is good, i always seemed to trip back a step though if i wasn't careful. I myself love the 69 RR and i do my fair share of reading the updates with you guys, the others as well but i do tend to make it a point to check these out first, Blame it on memory's all great with one. Back in those days they were just cars and if i would have thought 2 steps ahead, i may still have it.. My girl friend then, wife now was mad as heck at me when i sold mine and bought a 6 banger 65 Coronet 4 door! She was right, big mistake... Funny, sold my 69 and kept the girl, now 30 + years later im wondering if i didnt do it backwards lol... Sorry, im rambling here capt, don't tell my wife man... i was kidding.. Good luck to you, ill be watching.
Propwash
Well-Known Member
:icon_thumright:
Finallygotmine
Well-Known Member
That's some funny rambling there Ron! LOL
Captain, you are in the right place here on FBBO. The metal artisans here are fantastic. Your car "looks" pretty solid, but I remember thinking that as I was reading the beginning Prop's thread. It's amazing what bondo and paint can hide. I hope it is as solid as it looks. I commend your courage on taking on a project like this with your stated experience. Just keep in mind something my Dad always said to me. "what was made by man, can be fixed by man" He fixed everything in the house. After all, it's just metal, glass, and rubber which can all be mended or replaced. And, your thinking 2 steps ahead will probably save you much time and money. I know that for a fact. LOL So. good luck to you sir.
Daryn
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Cutting quarters off tomorrow....anything I need to know before I get too crazy?
wannadrag
Well-Known Member
Skin or full 1/4?Full,i would suggest doing one at a time to minimize things moving.
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Sorry about that....they're just skins.
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Drew first blood today! :headbang:
Day 116: Removed quarters and floor.
Floor DIDN'T come out in 1 piece....haha!
Day 116: Removed quarters and floor.
Floor DIDN'T come out in 1 piece....haha!
Benji
Well-Known Member
Cap,
My oldest son lives in Pataskala on Citation Drive just off Watkins road, and I will be visiting them this coming Saturday. PM me and maybe we can touch base! I could get a couple shots of your car for you.
Benji
My oldest son lives in Pataskala on Citation Drive just off Watkins road, and I will be visiting them this coming Saturday. PM me and maybe we can touch base! I could get a couple shots of your car for you.
Benji
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
My mother in law lives on Citation there in Beechwood trails....that's about 5 mins from me. I have to help my brother move in the morning, but should be home in the afternoon. I'll shoot you a PM.
mrbelv2
Well-Known Member
You're making good progress! For the quarters, I pretty much followed this article. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/body/mopp_0507_panel_rust_removal_2/index.html
I did'nt do the ends like they did. I used the whole skin except for the top part where it takes a 90 degree turn.(my seam is about where yours will be) Also, I used small sheet metal screws to hold both panels together. I installed them right on my cut line. As I got to them I removed them. I found it's easier to cut both panels at once for keeping things aligned and to keep the gap consistent. Have fun! Hey just curious does your name have anything to do with the fire dept?
I did'nt do the ends like they did. I used the whole skin except for the top part where it takes a 90 degree turn.(my seam is about where yours will be) Also, I used small sheet metal screws to hold both panels together. I installed them right on my cut line. As I got to them I removed them. I found it's easier to cut both panels at once for keeping things aligned and to keep the gap consistent. Have fun! Hey just curious does your name have anything to do with the fire dept?
Propwash
Well-Known Member
There's the meat and potato's!!!! Pretty typical rot going on there. Impressive pace Captain!!
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the compliments. Sometimes, I wonder if I'm moving too fast. When doing something new, fast can be bad. I hope I'm not forgetting any steps.
Another concern. Some of the flanges were damaged during the removal of the quarters and floor. My BIL says that's normal and we have to build new ones. Ok, so my question is: the factory used a lot of spot welds. When doing the repair, is it acceptable to use plug welds in leu of the spot welds? Also, when using a spot weld cutter, are you suppose to drill thru both flanges or just the top flange?
Mrbelv2, no, my user name has nothing to do with military or protective services. It all started as a joke. I was the only one with a boat and I felt like a charter boat capt (without the money of course) A joke was made one day while fishing and the name kinda stuck.
Another concern. Some of the flanges were damaged during the removal of the quarters and floor. My BIL says that's normal and we have to build new ones. Ok, so my question is: the factory used a lot of spot welds. When doing the repair, is it acceptable to use plug welds in leu of the spot welds? Also, when using a spot weld cutter, are you suppose to drill thru both flanges or just the top flange?
Mrbelv2, no, my user name has nothing to do with military or protective services. It all started as a joke. I was the only one with a boat and I felt like a charter boat capt (without the money of course) A joke was made one day while fishing and the name kinda stuck.
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mrbelv2
Well-Known Member
Yes you use plug welds. You only drill through one panel before mounting skin. Use lots fof clamps. Propwash's thread has some great pics of plug welding. Thats funny how some nicknames stick. They call me cap, but for a different reason.
Propwash
Well-Known Member
Great advice cap! You're right, funny how they stick....And ohhhhh yes, plennnnty of plugs welds to check out over on my bird. Was dreaming about them flippin things after welding and welding then grinding and grinding on them for days on end. Part of the fun I guess.
I'll toss a couple things out there too.... General rule of thumb for the minimum hole size to plug weld is 5/16". I've gone 1/4" in not so critical areas with no issues, but stick with 5/16" and you're golden. I use a .024 wire for spot welds, some guys use the .035". I guess that depends on your welding technique. Smaller wire, little less heat, faster wire speed....Thicker wire, higher heat (amp) setting, slower wire speed. You'll be the one who figures out what works best for you.
If you do drill through both panels and end up having to plug a hole that is all the way through both, use a piece of copper on the backside. The weld will not stick to it and you can fill in the hole. Sometime it sticks a little and you'll have to wobble it free, but nothing that requires grinding/chisel action. The thicker the copper the better (heats up slower) Heck, i've used a piece of 1" copper tubing for water in a pinch already.
Last, I would recommend using weld through primer between all panels being joined. There's zinc or copper based. I even think Eastwood or someone makes an etching weld through primer. I have good luck with the SEM Zinc based while other folks like Detmatt have luck with the copper. Again, you'll have to see what works for your preference.
I'll toss a couple things out there too.... General rule of thumb for the minimum hole size to plug weld is 5/16". I've gone 1/4" in not so critical areas with no issues, but stick with 5/16" and you're golden. I use a .024 wire for spot welds, some guys use the .035". I guess that depends on your welding technique. Smaller wire, little less heat, faster wire speed....Thicker wire, higher heat (amp) setting, slower wire speed. You'll be the one who figures out what works best for you.
If you do drill through both panels and end up having to plug a hole that is all the way through both, use a piece of copper on the backside. The weld will not stick to it and you can fill in the hole. Sometime it sticks a little and you'll have to wobble it free, but nothing that requires grinding/chisel action. The thicker the copper the better (heats up slower) Heck, i've used a piece of 1" copper tubing for water in a pinch already.
Last, I would recommend using weld through primer between all panels being joined. There's zinc or copper based. I even think Eastwood or someone makes an etching weld through primer. I have good luck with the SEM Zinc based while other folks like Detmatt have luck with the copper. Again, you'll have to see what works for your preference.
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