No, There is a big misconception out there that Evan's will fix overheating or make your car run cooler, this is not true and it is not advertised as such.
It will eliminate overheating, as advertised. by not having any pressure in the system and having a boiling point of 375°
Also do not use this stuff on a stock motor, not saying you can't because there is a formula that is specific to old cars in a stock condition. I use the high performance stuff because of my motor has multi metals.
All I can do is describe my situation with my combo of gear, if your bud has different stuff I would suggest calling Evan's directly for advice and instruction.
What I can tell you is that in the hottest summer temps I was able to finally get stable temps of 210° on the high side to average cruise temps of 190° Since installing my new set up I await winter to do more testing with this current set up.
If you ask Evan's what or when to use their product they will tell you if you have an overheating issue now get it fixed prior to using their stuff. It's not a bandaid and its not a miracle cure.
It's a product designed to not boil until 375° which tells us that it will not boil in ours cars because we all know that when your temps hit 230-250° you shut if off immediately!
What this means is there is no pressure in the system, no pressure means no blowing out of hoses or gaskets or things like that.
It does not corrode or interact with different metals meaning it will not cause rust or react to aluminum like water does. Which means your motor will last typically 100 times longer than it would with a water mix.
In reality I have found my motor runs hotter by the advertised 5-10° than it did before, this is only a bad thing when the temps outside in my neck of the woods are in the triple digits, on a 110° day prior to my new rad and fan setup I hit 230° after the new set up I never saw past 215° at the highest light to light traffic jam. Also once moving again the temps did drop to 190. Now if I see 205° I don't worry.
What is hard for all of us is seeing higher temps and expecting a miracle drug that lowers temps and keeps them there, this is pure fantasy unless you run a constant cryogenic spray which you would need a big *** bottle in your trunk lmao.
Anyway the hard part is the understanding of the benefits and added protection you get, everyone focus on the higher temps! OMG my temps are 5-10° higher WTF! blah blah blah
What they are not realizing is that the product is doing its job and with the proper parts installed per the instructions you are seeing the stuff work like it is supposed to! what most miss are the no corrosion aspects and the no pressure aspects and the fact that its a lifetime product!
Did you know that most older antifreeze products lasted about 3-6 months? Newer products now last 50,000 miles so they say, all that tells me is the stuff stays green for 50k but what about the inhibitors that prevent the rust and are they still preventing different metal interaction corrosion? I think not.
Here is right from Evan's web page on the high performance stuff. Anyone o these points can be argued of course, this is why I am experimenting and trying to document my own experience on the use of this stuff and what I am finding works and what doesn't in hopes that someone else will benefit from this.
Remember you have to think like a scientist - Removing heat from a hot source like a cylinder wall without using water which ends up boiling at less than 200° which causes pressure which causes expansion which causes hoses to blow out or overflow etc. Also who wouldn't want their motor to last 100 years? lmao Are you willing to keep track of exactly when the inhibitors in antifreeze break down and begin to fail and rust sets in? How much due diligence does that take in reality? once a month?
Yes the stuff is expensive, but how much is a rebuild? or how much is it to replace your block after it is rusted out and full of corroded crap? for $200 investment of the prep fluid and the coolant for a lifetime of trouble free coolant in my classic is no different than upgrading to disk brakes for safety in my opinion.
Evan's can be purchased in bulk for $40 a gallon on ebay -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evans-NPG-C...se-4-Gallon-/111676986818?hash=item1a007795c2
Benefits Over Water-Based Coolants
Eliminates Overheating - Evans Waterless Coolants have a boiling point above 375°F and will not vaporize, thus eliminating overheating, boil-over and after-boil.
Reduces Pressure - Evans Waterless Coolants generate very low vapor pressures reducing stress on engine cooling system components.
Prevents Corrosion
Evans Waterless Coolants contain no water effectively eliminating corrosion and pump cavitation.
Increases BHP - Evans Waterless Coolants eliminate pre-ignition and detonation caused by overheating - thus improving combustion efficiency and delivering more power.
Freeze Protection - Evans Waterless Coolants protects below -40ºF
Less Toxic - Evans Waterless Coolants have low toxicity.