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Going to give the Evan's HP coolant a try

A buddy of mine just put it in his car. I will let you know how he makes out. But let me ask is this stuff about $50 dollars a gallon as I thought I read that in here ? And how much cooler is it supposed to let the eng run ? Is it something that will help a car run 180 if it was running 200 ?? It seems like alot of money for it and a good bit of work so I hope it does what you want it to. I guess I wonder is this Evans kind of like using a bandaid on a car that runs to hot ? Ron
 
No, There is a big misconception out there that Evan's will fix overheating or make your car run cooler, this is not true and it is not advertised as such.

It will eliminate overheating, as advertised. by not having any pressure in the system and having a boiling point of 375°


Also do not use this stuff on a stock motor, not saying you can't because there is a formula that is specific to old cars in a stock condition. I use the high performance stuff because of my motor has multi metals.

All I can do is describe my situation with my combo of gear, if your bud has different stuff I would suggest calling Evan's directly for advice and instruction.

What I can tell you is that in the hottest summer temps I was able to finally get stable temps of 210° on the high side to average cruise temps of 190° Since installing my new set up I await winter to do more testing with this current set up.

If you ask Evan's what or when to use their product they will tell you if you have an overheating issue now get it fixed prior to using their stuff. It's not a bandaid and its not a miracle cure.

It's a product designed to not boil until 375° which tells us that it will not boil in ours cars because we all know that when your temps hit 230-250° you shut if off immediately!

What this means is there is no pressure in the system, no pressure means no blowing out of hoses or gaskets or things like that.

It does not corrode or interact with different metals meaning it will not cause rust or react to aluminum like water does. Which means your motor will last typically 100 times longer than it would with a water mix.

In reality I have found my motor runs hotter by the advertised 5-10° than it did before, this is only a bad thing when the temps outside in my neck of the woods are in the triple digits, on a 110° day prior to my new rad and fan setup I hit 230° after the new set up I never saw past 215° at the highest light to light traffic jam. Also once moving again the temps did drop to 190. Now if I see 205° I don't worry.

What is hard for all of us is seeing higher temps and expecting a miracle drug that lowers temps and keeps them there, this is pure fantasy unless you run a constant cryogenic spray which you would need a big *** bottle in your trunk lmao.

Anyway the hard part is the understanding of the benefits and added protection you get, everyone focus on the higher temps! OMG my temps are 5-10° higher WTF! blah blah blah

What they are not realizing is that the product is doing its job and with the proper parts installed per the instructions you are seeing the stuff work like it is supposed to! what most miss are the no corrosion aspects and the no pressure aspects and the fact that its a lifetime product!

Did you know that most older antifreeze products lasted about 3-6 months? Newer products now last 50,000 miles so they say, all that tells me is the stuff stays green for 50k but what about the inhibitors that prevent the rust and are they still preventing different metal interaction corrosion? I think not.

Here is right from Evan's web page on the high performance stuff. Anyone o these points can be argued of course, this is why I am experimenting and trying to document my own experience on the use of this stuff and what I am finding works and what doesn't in hopes that someone else will benefit from this.

Remember you have to think like a scientist - Removing heat from a hot source like a cylinder wall without using water which ends up boiling at less than 200° which causes pressure which causes expansion which causes hoses to blow out or overflow etc. Also who wouldn't want their motor to last 100 years? lmao Are you willing to keep track of exactly when the inhibitors in antifreeze break down and begin to fail and rust sets in? How much due diligence does that take in reality? once a month?

Yes the stuff is expensive, but how much is a rebuild? or how much is it to replace your block after it is rusted out and full of corroded crap? for $200 investment of the prep fluid and the coolant for a lifetime of trouble free coolant in my classic is no different than upgrading to disk brakes for safety in my opinion.

Evan's can be purchased in bulk for $40 a gallon on ebay -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evans-NPG-C...se-4-Gallon-/111676986818?hash=item1a007795c2


Benefits Over Water-Based Coolants
Eliminates Overheating - Evans Waterless Coolants have a boiling point above 375°F and will not vaporize, thus eliminating overheating, boil-over and after-boil.

Reduces Pressure - Evans Waterless Coolants generate very low vapor pressures reducing stress on engine cooling system components.
Prevents Corrosion

Evans Waterless Coolants contain no water effectively eliminating corrosion and pump cavitation.

Increases BHP - Evans Waterless Coolants eliminate pre-ignition and detonation caused by overheating - thus improving combustion efficiency and delivering more power.

Freeze Protection - Evans Waterless Coolants protects below -40ºF

Less Toxic - Evans Waterless Coolants have low toxicity.
 
Wow thanks for the awesome reply as I appreciate your input. I never really have read any info about it so your input is a big help. I did not know it wont boil until 375 degrees. Course on normal coolant the manufactors want pressure since every lb of pressure on water and coolant raises the boiling point 3 degrees. So with 8 lbs of pressure the water/coolant wont boil until 236 degrees (212 + 24=236). I had not ever considered it since I dont have any running hot problems with my car and as you showed its not cheap. But its good to know about it as I will be doing any work needed on my buddies car. Thanks again for taking the time to write so much info about it for me to read. I just learned alot about Evans !! Ron
 
Gentlemen,
I believe the Evans material is propolyene glycol, similar to the standard ethylene and is used as a airplane de-icing fluid (which is enviormentally friendly). The Evans material has additional corrosion inhibitors plus an anti-foam to help prevent water pump cavitation at high RPMs. They claim it has a higher boiling point (with out being pressurized) and protects from freezing to a -50 degrees F without being diluted. Is it worth the additional cost ??? I'll continue to run the Dexcool at -50 degree freeze protection level in a pressurized cooling system, with a Flowcooler pump in my 440+6. Cooling system maladies are not usually fixed by snake oil.....but thru sound engineering principals....just my opinion, of course.
Cheers,
RJ Renton
 
Thank for the opinion, I believe the Evans product is to be used with already working systems. I have mentioned this several times it is not a cure to an overheating problem. The science is sound you just have to get past the fact it is not being sold as a fix all.
 
Thanks jb for the evans play by play. Im going for it. Just got my 26" rad recorded to a 3 core.493 pump gas motor fresh from the dyno so i wont need the prep flush. 7 blade factory fan /shroud . Aluminum heads ,water pump, wp housing going into my 67 gtx wish me luck. GTXXXXXXXXXXXX.jpg
 
Best of luck to you, Remember to call Evan's and discuss your exact setup so you can have the correct product. Sounds like a stock set up for the most part so I am thinking the classic stuff but please call them to make sure. They may prescribe the HP stuff I don't know for sure. You will never have to change your coolant again! and since it's a new build won't see chunks of iron and rust in your radiator! it will be awesome good luck.



Thanks jb for the evans play by play. I'm going for it. Just got my 26" rad recorded to a 3 core.493 pump gas motor fresh from the dyno so i won't need the prep flush. 7 blade factory fan /shroud . Aluminum heads ,water pump, wp housing going into my 67 gtx wish me luck.View attachment 279180
 
FIRST used the evans in my diesel several years ago; I did a 440 stroker build recently and went to Evans coolant. No T stat, also you can opt to put in a manual valve to stop the coolant from going into the heater core which is inside the car. I have a electric one on the diesel which shuts the valve when the a/c is selected. Makes a huge difference in cooling the cab. FYI: just do it. You will be amazed at the difference for those who have a/c in their mopar. I don't, but I don't want unnecessary heat inside. Also, Evans recommends a 6psi-16 psi radiator cap.
 
Seem like a lot of effort,expense,coolant,radiator etc to do when a properly working factory cooling system will accomplish the same thing !
 
What if your didn't come stock when you bought it? What if your engine build included aluminum parts? What if you just did a fresh rebuild and realized you wanted it to last as long as possible? How does the factory stuff help you if its not there?
Seem like a lot of effort,expense,coolant,radiator etc to do when a properly working factory cooling system will accomplish the same thing !
 
for a one time use I couldn't justify the expense
I'm likely to go with this in both classic cars, my Roadrunner and GTO. Both are getting new Cold Case radiators and new water pumps as part of the changeover to the Wraptor serpentine system, and both are getting Vintage Air.
Seems like now is a good time to change.
Screenshot_20191024-183225_Chrome.jpg
 
I have stopped using Evans, it was great in fall, winter and beginnimg of spring but the first 90+ days and my motor just ran too hot. Now i didnt know about the flowkooler water pump that may have made things better but it was too late now using Zerex G05 mix and royal ice additive. I will still promote Evans as it was awesome with the no pressure in the system part even when up to 230°. if my 440 was stock i think it would have been fine but it's stroked and doesn't like to run hot I had to switch. Sucks too was trying a few different things as far as coolants supposed race coolants etc. Had cap off measuring temps and got a geyser big mess. I also have the tester unit to see the % of water in the evans i got mine down to 1%. Good luck drain the block and get all that water out. I found that you can acutally boil evans and get the water out that way if it got mixed in and yiu didnt drain the block all the way. Then put the boiled evans back in worked great even the evans techs thought it was a great idea lol


I'm likely to go with this in both classic cars, my Roadrunner and GTO. Both are getting new Cold Case radiators and new water pumps as part of the changeover to the Wraptor serpentine system, and both are getting Vintage Air.
Seems like now is a good time to change.
View attachment 855487
 
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There are some of these aftermarket type things that are not an improvement or ar just not worth the expense.
Evans is not allowed at many drag strips from what I have read. Not a problem for me because I am not a drag racer.
I am not going to spend $60 a gallon for coolant though.
 
I know that Evan's waterless coolant runs hotter than regular antifreeze/water mix.
Hmmm...
 
Rotax tried to make us run that **** in their airplane engines a decade + ago.. guess they needed a new market to pull the wool over the eyes on after we sent them pounding salt....
 
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