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Rear sway bar advice

I don't think the size of the diff matters. The distance between the leaf springs won't change unless you move the springs in. I wonder what guys who relocate the springs do for sway bars?
 
CKessel went through this. He used a Helwig rear bar that was narrower between the lever arms.
 
SK8BALL said:
74 charger 318
Has original front sway bar.
No rear sway bar.
Looking at adding a 3/4” rear bar.
Will that size bar play nicely with the factory front bar?
Click to expand...
I don't know much about the '73-up isolated suspension design, but my '71 Charger has the PST Front and rear sway bars and I like the way it handles. It does not understeer like stock, it seem pretty neutral, to slight oversteer (nice if doing SCCA Solo), but the car has stiffer than stock rear springs and the Mopar 0.960" T-bars too.
I could always throw a 1" T-bar in if needed, but I'm getting adjustable shocks first.
 
Quiet test drive after installing rear swaybar.

fast-and-furious-barrel-roll.gif
 
Dibbons said:
I found a chart, but looks like part numbers are not factory because they start with a "P".

View attachment 1437919
Click to expand...
Some stock parts got later the Mopar Performance PN supersedes number. The stock Magnum BB camshaft ( and 6pack camshaft bro ) is one of them in fact, being the first (and second) one on the MP catalog list
 
Last edited:
JR_Charger said:
I'm shopping for a rear bar. I've currently got the QA1 bar in front, which is 1 1/8." I may change to Hotchkis's front bar in the future, does anyone know what size that one is? I'd like to get my "system" right. Firm Feel has a 7/8 rear bar, which may match their 1 1/4 front bar. PST has a 3/4" rear bar. No idea what size the Hotchkis bar is.

I'll be using the 50+ yr old stock springs until I can get the final weight of the car. If the car rides better with factory springs and a rear sway bar, I'd rather do that than stiff springs and no sway bar.



Firm Feel makes new ones, but I don't know if they are any stronger
Click to expand...
JR_Charger said:
I'm shopping for a rear bar. I've currently got the QA1 bar in front, which is 1 1/8." I may change to Hotchkis's front bar in the future, does anyone know what size that one is? I'd like to get my "system" right. Firm Feel has a 7/8 rear bar, which may match their 1 1/4 front bar. PST has a 3/4" rear bar. No idea what size the Hotchkis bar is.

I'll be using the 50+ yr old stock springs until I can get the final weight of the car. If the car rides better with factory springs and a rear sway bar, I'd rather do that than stiff springs and no sway bar.



Firm Feel makes new ones, but I don't know if they are any stronger or not.
Click to expand...
Why do you want to go to a 1 1/4” from SA?
 
70ChargerRT said:
Why do you want to go to a 1 1/4” from SA?
Click to expand...

SA?

The QA1 bar I have has to be mounted under the QA1 k member. No one likes that. Another user was able to mount a Hotchkis bar through his QA1 kmember. The QA1 bar is too wide for that, it hits the strut bars.
 
JR_Charger said:
SA?

The QA1 bar I have has to be mounted under the QA1 k member. No one likes that. Another user was able to mount a Hotchkis bar through his QA1 kmember. The QA1 bar is too wide for that, it hits the strut bars.
Click to expand...
OK Gotcha. That’s the main reason I didn’t do a Qa1 K-Frame. I still dont like how the Hotchkis looks going through the Qa1 frame and tying in to the LCA.
 
Well, the QA1 k member doesn't have to be permanent. Modifying the factory k member to the extent some here do is beyond my current skill level. I'm learning to be o.k. with leaving the advanced stuff till later.
 
JR_Charger said:
Well, the QA1 k member doesn't have to be permanent. Modifying the factory k member to the extent some here do is beyond my current skill level. I'm learning to be o.k. with leaving the advanced stuff till later.
Click to expand...
Ah, some of the stuff people do on here is overkill, I’m guilty of it myself. My buddy has a Mopar junkyard and I’ve helped him probably jerk out over 15 RB K-frames to sell at the big shows and I have never seen the first one ever cracked. Not saying it doesn’t happen. I mean if you do some type of racing I’m sure modifying them helps but I think it’s overkill in other regards. I may get someone to custom build me a tubular one to my liking. I called Qa1 and told them their tubular K-frame design was over 20 years old and could use some upgrades, especially the SA design. They told me to buy their coil over set up. I told them it’d be a cold day in hell before I ever put a Ford Pinto front end in my car.
 
I haven't ever dealt with the QA1 K frame but I did the Magnum Force one which is a total POS. I much prefer the stock K frame even in modified form over most of the tubular designs. I have 5 classic Mopar muscle cars and all of them have the stock K frame although I do admit that I perimeter weld them and reinforce the steering box mounts. I have seen steering boxes physically move when the wheel is turned back and forth sitting still, so I always reinforce that area.
 
That sector support seems most beneficial for cars that have not had their K members fully welded and gusseted.
 
JR_Charger said:
Well, the QA1 k member doesn't have to be permanent. Modifying the factory k member to the extent some here do is beyond my current skill level. I'm learning to be o.k. with leaving the advanced stuff till later.
Click to expand...
The K in my 66 Belvedere is 32 lbs with mods and still uses the stock steering box mount and engine mount stands but they are modified. Have another K that's 26 lbs but there's no stock engine mount stands. The engine will have to use Effellant ears with the 26 pounder.
 
Really? 32 lbs?
My '70 Charger K member with welds and gussets....

197 R.JPG
198 R.JPG


These have the double shear idler arm mount but I wonder what else is different to explain the weight difference.
 
Based on my experience in weighing my own self, some scales are nicer to weigh on than others . . .
 
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