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Do you suppose that's strong enough for a coil over?
Bottom plate not needed if the top plate is welded. Rule book says 4 3/8 bolts with a plate on top and bottom.
Ok thank you
What did you do about the tire clearance for the tires.
Inboard leafsprings, mini tub. Checkout my entire post for picd
I'm really interested in doing that to mine. And save 3k/4k
If you look at the way many cars have mounted the top, my braced chromoly tubing would be fine.
Especially because of the two vertical bars about 1 foot from the top shock mount
Your bars look better than most of the strut front ends like on promos ect
In my world good ole common sense DOES apply Yes,,headers are more challenging with the engine set back,but the entire front suspension is stock and when I do the LCA bushing next time I have aluminum strut bars waiting to go on and shave a few more pounds off the nose. Remember what FULLMETALJACKET says,,,,,light is might!
I'm sorry, I'm "missing it". I see the 2 vertical tabs welded to the tubing. Are those 2 tabs going to support the weight of the front of your car?
IF i had a strut type the tabs would be directly under the bar and one more support. Before the shock tower was removed I had 2 tabs UNDER the tower to hold the shock or I would have had to drop the shock out to remove the valve covers. When the engine was set back the tower had to GO! So even with the added weight of the front "J" bar and the the parachute with the added bars to support it I lost 200lbs!
Really would like some comments on the placement of the windshield bar. Good bad any. I tried putting it between the window and the mirror but.. I can put a slight bend in the middle going towards the roof if needed. Thanks guys hope yall had a merry Christmas and will have a great new year.
Looks great to me from an appearance perspective. I am 6'3" so I would want to be sure that I could clear it with a helmet on, and that looks ok to me.
I like your bar right there you have the shades and mirror. But that's just me.