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A little help please

747mopar

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I've got what I think is a minor problem but wanted some expert advice. I'm pretty much ready for paint but have been chasing around minor rust spots and just wanted your input. The car when started was blasted, primed in epoxy primer then all the sheet metal done. I did all of the bodywork last year using a urethane primer, because of the cost of paint and my lack of money it sat for a while in my humid garage. I have a dehumidifier now that has been running all summer ending the problem but now that I'm ready for paint I'm finding minor rust. It's all in spots where the primer was thin and is very small (pin size). I've been going around and sanding them down to bare metal then priming with SEM self etching primer and topping with SEM high build primer (rattle cans). Is this enough? I think once sealed and painted even if there is a small amount left behind it can't get air or moisture to rust again "pain in the a$$". P.S Most areas are on the rockers.
 
Something tells me were afraid to say what we may be thinking with this, so im re- writing what i wrote last night twice and chickened out.
With all the money, time, and work you have in this very special car, If you do not sand it down again and re-primer and seal it you will be watching, waiting and worrying about anything that looks like a paint blister or bubble. This has come a long way and it would be a miserable thing if there is some of that rust hiding and you miss it before painting. Im sorry and don't want to sound negative but yes i do think i would at the least sand it all down and re-seal it and know for certain if at all possible... Ok, i said it and im no expert but ive learned a few harsh lessons with paint at times.
 
Your right, as is the case with most problems there are likely a few alternatives but I don't like worrying. I posted this because I hadn't had much luck getting a hold of anyone else but have decided to take the hard route and strip it. I did get a hold of House of Kolors today about what to do, no treatments just sand it to bare metal and prime with epoxy "again". I had it epoxied already but sanded threw it in several places while repairing some dents so here we go again but I will now paint it with confidence instead of worrying. What's up with the total lack of feedback on paint related topics?
 
I personally love the "rust prep" by Auto Tech.

http://www.autotechmfg.com/products.html#Rust_-_Prep_

I have used this all over my car with good results. Its an acid based product that forms a chemical reaction with the rust to form a primer substrate you can sand or just plain paint over. (after washing of course) But I have used this on every rust spot that I have come across and so far so good. I even used it as a primer for a while on one spot as an experiment. I took bare metal, sprayed this on and then stored the car all winter long under a tarp with no hood (this spot got damp routinely) and it didn't form new rust.
 
I've been experimenting with OSPHO. It is a liquid rust reformer. The places I've tried it on seem to be holding well. I have put body filler over it,primed over it, but haven't layed down any paint yet. It's fairly cheap too.
 
I've been experimenting with OSPHO. It is a liquid rust reformer. The places I've tried it on seem to be holding well. I have put body filler over it,primed over it, but haven't layed down any paint yet. It's fairly cheap too.


Ospho is phosphoric acid and will work - but you really have to be careful with it in more ways than one. I would not use it under anything I wanted to be permanent, because of known failures. I have most of a gallon left that will probably become driveway cleaner.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263091&highlight=ospho+epoxy+primer&showall=1
 
Safety first when using any acids! Depending on metal type and severity of your corrosion, phosphoric works well on a car. Any acid especially muratic needs to be kept from any area where two pices are joined or you are unwilling to take apart for a good cleaning. I do this with metal tape and go with a mechanical method (grinding sanding etc.) Once the area is clean and dryed a wipe down is what I use. Thinner to remove any other contaminates oils or acid residue. Temperature is also a factor when doing this as well as good ventilation Thr CLR and evapo rust Ive not used but am gonna give em a try. I would like to hear if others have used along with success level.
 
What known failures are you referring to?

I provided a link to an epict thread. It really boils down to NOT letting it dry. Wipe it off before it drys on its own. That includes not letting it get into nooks and crannies like seams to dry, as BarnFind mentioned above.
 
Sorry, should have done a better job explaining. When I say "rust" I'm talking about a few small spots that are only pin size and they are just on the surface (not holes, pits, or big areas). The guys at House of Kolors don't like allot of the rust treatments "they say it can result in lifting" and recommend sanding it all the way down and Epoxying it. I've used a couple types of acid and the spay on rust converter as well but with the car ready for paint I hate to be putting anything nasty on it. I've already stripped it to find a very clean surface once the small pin sized area were knocked down, I'll get it primed in epoxy tonight and the whole car sealed by the end of the weekend. It probably isn't as big of a deal as I'm making it out to be but I'm **** about these things because I hate having to fix them later. Thanks guys
 
I gave you the non-nasty way to remove rust in post #5 above. When I soaked the roof of my wagon in Evapo-Rust - a lot of the soaked paper-towels turned red from rust traces I could not see. This after sanding on bare metal roof again and again with 150 DA. Just because you can't see the rust, doesn't mean its not there.....

https://www.google.com/#q=evapo-rust

:smileinbox:
 
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