Attn: woodworkers- need router bit to make simple baseboard please

YY1

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We are remodeling our master bedroom and installing new flooring.

There are currently rough hewn cedar baseboards and door trim in place (well, until yesterday).

My wife hates the rough hewn look, but I LOVE the fact that they are real wood and cedar.
Cedar helps discourage bugs, in case you didn't know. We really don't have many bug issues, despite being in the bug capital of the US.
I can't imagine how expensive buying new cedar might be.

I've planed off the roughness, and used a roundover bit to make workable door frames that almost exactly match the ones at Lowes/HD.

What I'm having trouble finding is a router bit that approximates the gentle slope of a "standard" baseboard.

I've also seen it called "clamshell", but all I get when I search any of those terms along with "router" bit is pictures of the plain molding, and pictures of bits for more complex molding.

Any of you guys that do woodwork know what I need, what it's called and/or where I can get one?
 

Stanton

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Most molding is done on a "shaper" - a much larger machine than a router and capable of taking larger cutters. That said, can you post a photo or drawing of what you're hoping to achieve.
 

69 Sleeper Bee

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YY1

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...but I did find this-

1656358809021.png


and this-

1656358921547.png
 

69 Sleeper Bee

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Here is an old Brown's Moulding Chart I have on my office wall showing the base #s
IMG_3409.JPG

That 175-0735 is probably the closest you will find for a router bit. As stated above they use huge planing machines to shape the stock on typical mouldings.
 

Virg464

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I've been building furniture for years and I'm pretty sure you won't find a "router" bit to do what you want. As ref'd early in the thread that type of shaping is normally done on a larger machine. You can find panel bits that will create what you're looking for but you'll need a floor standing shaper with at least a 3/4" arbor to spin that big of a bit and keep it in place. You might look for a local wood shop that mills trim pieces, they sometimes will run the work for you and only charge shop time for running the machine. I do this when I need to resaw a piece of lumber that is too big for my bandsaw. Good luck with the wood project. :thumbsup:
 

YY1

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Second row outer 2 and bottom two rows center are very close if one is not dead on.

8592 that I posted above is also very close but only comes in 1/2" shank.
Closer than the other one I posted.

Not sure if my router can be converted.

What I can't understand is why are all the fancy ones readily available (even on ebay), but the simple one is/are not?

That doesn't make sense.
 

69 Sleeper Bee

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Do you have a router table to mount your router in ?
Cedar is pretty soft so should be fine if you have a router table and maybe some extra hands.
 

Ron H

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You consider a simple beveled or radiused edge if you're not wanting too fancy?
 

Stanton

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shaft is 1/2" - should give you an idea of the cutter size. This is about as big as you're gonna find in a router bit. If you need bigger, consider using a tablesaw with an good carbide blade then a sander. Should turn out pretty good with a soft wood like cedar.

IMG_4829[1].JPG
 
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YY1

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Yes I have a table but the router is fixed 1/4" so looking at a new convertible fixed/plunge, adjustable speed, back EMF RPM stabilized upgrade.

The bit pictured above is the opposite of what I need.

I have an inquiry in to the MFG of the first pic in post 5.
Not sure why they wouldn't have a dimensional spec sheet on line.

I have since found that a "shutter" bit is real close and might be a good plan B.
The difference is that it leaves 1/4" on the top of the piece.
My sample baseboard only has 1/8"
That might be a livable compromise.

1656455047630.png
 

YY1

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Wait.....

I misinterpreted those measurements.

The 1/4" is from the outside dimension.

I think that shutter bit will work!
 

Mopar Hunter

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If you must have one that you can’t get one from a store, you can always have one made.
 

YY1

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No !! You run the board through "flat" instead of on its edge.

I thought of that.
I'm thinking about beefing up the fence to compensate.

To run it flat, I'd need a decreasing radius, approximately 1 inch roundover.
Still technically "opposite" of the large bit you posted.

If you're making shutters, you're running the stock on edge, then turning it over and running it on the 3/8" edge again, reducing it to 1/8"!

...and it turns out my first thoughts on the shutter bit were correct.
It's going to leave more of the top edge than I want but the profile is almost dead on correct.
 

Red63440

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You may need to update to a 1/2” shank router to do it safely and to get what you want.
 

YY1

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??? The bearing is the "fence" !!

Still amazed there's not a bit available for this.

How many homes have clamshell baseboard molding?

...and you can buy bits to make nearly all the other fancier baseboards available at home stores.
 
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