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Fixing MAACO Mistake-Os.

I may have to blame current owner for being ignorant of buffing in his youth, but he came up when useful skills were no longer taught.

MAACO's paint job is still pretty bad in places, but it's not as bad as I thought.
In my teens, the Earl special was $99 and the MAACO deal was $239.
MAACO being all "oven-baked" and poly-something or other was a whole 'nother step up. :)
 
I don't wanted melted weatherstrips on my fries!
The layout of the place I saw had four stalls on one side with doors where the rough work was going on, and from there, the cars would proceed forward for more prep, and then they would turn left into the paint booth, then ahead into an oven the same size as the paint booth. It had rows of heat lamps and the second door led outdoors to the parking lot. I think you can wash and wax it that day. Might also allow the use of paint without catalyst which saves cost and is supposed to be harder. They had a 3 year warranty.
 
How would you oven bake a complete car?
The bake ovens used in paint shops have much less heat than the factory bake ovens, to avoid heat damage to upholstery, rubber and fuel systems. It's more like cooking under the Arizona sun for a few hours.
 
When I was a toddler, my Dad would bring me to our local Earl Schieb to watch the people prepping the cars before
they went in the spray booth. One day I noticed a lady breastfeeding her infant while she was masking off the letters
on a front fender! WoW! Multitasking way back then! I guess alot of people got their cars painted back then?
 
Your paint edge is way to sharp, needs feathered out 4 to 6 inchs more from the edge you now have with 320/400.

Primed and sanded 400 again , sealed , color blend into 800 grit finish on the surrounding area.

Only sand to 800? I've been going up to 2500 and buffing. I was going higher than 2500, but buffing seems to do as well on its own.

I'm having a big problem getting sanding scratches out of my paint though. Some lower grit scratches always make it through to the buffing stage. That's when I can tell that they are in fact lower grit scratches. What grit, I don't know. It can't be right to keep going down to lower grits and repeating the process over and over again, trying to get scratches out. I'm sure I'm only putting more in.

If its a tape strip a 3M eraser wheel works very well.

Is the $50 3M eraser wheel $45 better than the $5 ones on eBay?
 
I polished the hood and driver's side fender top last night, proving that you can, indeed, polish a turd. Now we get into the MAACO mistake-O's. Current owner isn't to blame for this mess.

The hood and fender tops are full of specs of - something - and in places the hood was sanded with a very low grit paper and the low grit scratches were left. Clearly the guy who painted this car wasn't the same caliber of employee as the one in the video a couple posts back.

I wonder if there was another car getting bondo next to mine, and these specs are all dust from the other car being sanded.

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Maybe try a clay bar, and then polish?
 
I've got one sitting around, so it's no biggie to try, but I think this stuff is mixed into the paint too well.
 
Only sand to 800? I've been going up to 2500 and buffing. I was going higher than 2500, but buffing seems to do as well on its own.

I'm having a big problem getting sanding scratches out of my paint though. Some lower grit scratches always make it through to the buffing stage. That's when I can tell that they are in fact lower grit scratches. What grit, I don't know. It can't be right to keep going down to lower grits and repeating the process over and over again, trying to get scratches out. I'm sure I'm only putting more in.



Is the $50 3M eraser wheel $45 better than the $5 ones on eBay?
When your at the buffing the color blend stage you should be on top of 1500, 2000.
The 800 will be you last grit at the blend area.
If you want it to look decent you need to be blending color into a nice size area around that marker.
Once dry you will finish the outer edges of the new paint running onto the old color with your 1500/2000 then buff.
You do not want to try to paint on top of anything that has a lower grit than 320.

I have never used ebay for auto body supplies so I can not say good or bad on the eraser wheels sold there.
I like the 3m wheels.
 
I don't understand what you mean by "800 is last grit at the blend area." Do you mean, before paint? Because I thought paint went on 320 grit, nothing higher.
 
You would sand the primed area with a 320/400 then outside of the primed area with the 800 then tac.
If you wish to use a sealer like a epoxy DP 50 or 90 depending on color, yours I would use the 50 ( dark grey )
The sealer is sprayed on the sanded primer before the color.
You let that flash / dry aprox 30 min depending on temp.
Tac again. Spray you color blending out onto the 800 prep area.
From the look of the surrounding area near the marker you have a decent size area to prep and paint.
Your blend into original / existing color needs to be away from your repair area.
And yes you can blend color and or clear onto 800 grit prep.
I never mentioned but always use a good grease and wax remover before priming or sealing.
If you can get you hands on a little 840 ppg blender you can do a fast dusting of it over your blend area to melt the blend in.
One time only try a second pass and it will sag.
 
The 1200,1500 is after your dry it's prep before buffing.
 
You would buff after 1500? I've got sandpaper up to 2500 and Trizact up to 8000.
 
Tried it, but the mess is too far down in the paint.



What pad and compound are you starting with?
3m purple pad and 3040 compound then their black pad and 5096 polish.
Trizact pads are good, I've used them over the years. 3000 was as fine as ever needed.
I have not had any problem buffing after 1500 or 2000 wet sanding. If you have some trizact pads you can use them also just keep in mind your dealing with limited mils/ depth of finish on your panel.
When wet sanding everything has to stay clean as a OR, keep panels wet and wiped off. Hand sanding wet in a circular motion you can feel right away if you have a nib or piece of grit trapped under the paper.
Trizact pad.... you trap a piece of crap you never know it until its cut the paint all over hell.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
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