Help Mushy pedal!

[res1vw21]

Well I know it's not an B but I did a brake job on a '65 Newport for a guy and I can't figure out what I did wrong.

I switched to a dual pot master and used a prop valve from a drum brake dart.

The Newport has all brand new lines and all brand new hardware. Everything is new!

I had some binding issues with the shoes but got it all straightened out so now the only problem is the pedal is mushy. It goes to the floor.

I bench bled the master twice, and then bled the wheel cylinders in order of rr lr rf lf.

I suppose my question is do I have a bad master? The master is a brand new rebestious unit. The pedal doesn't pump up either.


The car is a power brake all drum car.

Any thoughts? I have another master on order but it's gonna be 5 days and I don't want this car in my driveway any longer.

 

[daredevil]

sounds like theres still air in the lines.how much fluid have you replaced in the master cylinder when you bled the brakes. I always bleed them with a short piece of vacumn hose on the bleeder screws submerged in a glass bottle of brake fluid so i can see when the air bubbles are gone. this way you can crack the screw and pump it till all the fluid is purged because when you let the pedal come up the line cant suck air as it is submerged in fluid.

 

[69 Runner]

Yep. Probably air. I'd get them pressure bled. (I bought a pressure bleeder so I can do brakes by myself)

One thing. You didn't put DOT5 fluid in the system did you?

 

[res1vw21]

nope it's dot 4. I am trying to gravity bleed them now and if that doesn't work I will re bleed with the hose submerged so it doesn't re suck air. Thank you both I am a body man and I don't know why I took this job.

 

[69 Runner]

Probably seemed like the thing to do at the time:grin:

I've tried the gravity method before with no luck. I also tried using a Mi T Vac (however it's spelled) with little luck as well. That's why I bought a pressure bleeder. But they AREN'T cheap. So one isn't worth buying unless you do a lot of brake jobs by yourself......

or just like buying tools:rolling:

 

[GTXperience]

Ross, I had a similar problem on my '70 Ply Suburban wagon once and it ended up being the length of the rod was not the same for the new unit. Was the power-assist unit changed as well?

 

[res1vw21]

it was it came with the master? I can't remember I bought the parts for a '68 with drums and power so I figured that they would work. Brand new master from raybestos and a new booster to boot. The rods came with one or the other.

I tried to gravity bleed without much luck so I will try to power bleed next? I really just want this thing gone!!!!

 

[daredevil]

youll be able to see if the fluid is moving in the jar when you pump the brakes to know if m/c is pushing fluid

 

[65AzBel]

Did you bench bleed it master cylinder?