Wow, 528 Hemi. Thanks for the input. That makes me feel much better.
Mystery 440- Help!
- Thread starter BigLime
- Start date
Any of you guys know a great engine builder in AZ? If not, who would be a good online builder to buy a short block from?
I don't want to build the short block myself at this horsepower level given my inexperience with the 440. There are always little tricks that I am going to miss.
I don't want to build the short block myself at this horsepower level given my inexperience with the 440. There are always little tricks that I am going to miss.
radical rob
Well-Known Member
Ask 69 hemibeep. He lives in ariz.
ps I have a girdle on my engine from Hughes .
ps I have a girdle on my engine from Hughes .
There are ways to proceed with what you have with out taking it apart, but you need to further investigate what you have.
I would suggest starting with a scope and taking a look inside at what piston you have. That will give you a ball park scr number with some research. Like mentioned proceed then with a Compression test. The engine builder saying 10:1 and forged rods doesn't mean much of anything, all bb mopars have forged rods???? As far as the crank being cast or steel...look at the damper shape. if your going to do boost, keep your rpms down and the odds of it surviving will increase tremendously....as is. Boost makes lots of torque. I get setting Hp goals...but realisticly your just talking a stock motor w manifolds here....do the best you can. Just do some simple research before you proceed bolting on a supercharger.
I would suggest starting with a scope and taking a look inside at what piston you have. That will give you a ball park scr number with some research. Like mentioned proceed then with a Compression test. The engine builder saying 10:1 and forged rods doesn't mean much of anything, all bb mopars have forged rods???? As far as the crank being cast or steel...look at the damper shape. if your going to do boost, keep your rpms down and the odds of it surviving will increase tremendously....as is. Boost makes lots of torque. I get setting Hp goals...but realisticly your just talking a stock motor w manifolds here....do the best you can. Just do some simple research before you proceed bolting on a supercharger.
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Outsider
Well-Known Member
I agree with the others that you need a little more info about what you have and I understand you do not want to pull the engine and take the car down for an extended amount of time. You want more power and don't care about gas mileage or "friendly drivability"?
First check your cranking compression, if it's a "mild street grind" you may be able to do better if cam is now mild and your compression is high enough. It would be really nice to know how far down in the hole the pistons are and know you compression, but you would likely need to pull a head to get accurate info. Then verify if you really have 3.9 gears and not 3.23s, if you don't have the 3.9s, get some.
You may be able to tailor the current engine package for more power with some bolt on stuff and make it more powerful without pulling the engine, such as a better suited cam and a well tuned carb.
That said, if you want to double the HP and don't want the down time, buy a complete quality done engine, or core block and start gathering parts and do a swap when you've got your ducks in line.
First check your cranking compression, if it's a "mild street grind" you may be able to do better if cam is now mild and your compression is high enough. It would be really nice to know how far down in the hole the pistons are and know you compression, but you would likely need to pull a head to get accurate info. Then verify if you really have 3.9 gears and not 3.23s, if you don't have the 3.9s, get some.
You may be able to tailor the current engine package for more power with some bolt on stuff and make it more powerful without pulling the engine, such as a better suited cam and a well tuned carb.
That said, if you want to double the HP and don't want the down time, buy a complete quality done engine, or core block and start gathering parts and do a swap when you've got your ducks in line.
Jackpot50
Well-Known Member
You can't replace rod bolts in the car, girttle needs to be machined to fit
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That 572 has cross bolted mains, IMO you won't need a girdle on that block. I'm skeptical on B/RB girdles anyway. As for whether crank is forged or not, as mentioned above look at the harmonic balancer. If it's thin and not thick, it's probably forged and not externally balanced like a cast unit would be.
Chuck (snook)
Thanks Snook. The Balancer is a thick one. Looks like a stock piece. So you are saying then, probably cast?
I'll find out soon enough anyway...
Good damper resource:
Harmonic Dampers 440 Source.com
Harmonic Dampers 440 Source.com
Its about 1" thick across the timing mark area. Pic. attached.
I can't tell much else until I pull the water pump, which I need to replace anyway. It you think its worthwhile, I'll pull the pulley on the bottom too, but I think a scope through the oil pan screw will tell me that story.
Still seems like stock to me, but you guys know better.
I can't tell much else until I pull the water pump, which I need to replace anyway. It you think its worthwhile, I'll pull the pulley on the bottom too, but I think a scope through the oil pan screw will tell me that story.
Still seems like stock to me, but you guys know better.
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It looks like you have a damper for a forged crank likely w the standard Ly rods. That is what would be expected for a 70 engine that is a non hp( no hp stamp up top on the front bad.)
Engine looks really clean for a 2015 rebuild!
Looks like a forged crank.
That would be nice for forged. The builder did mention new rods, so we will see what he put in there. I am hoping to catch some markings on them when I scope the bottom end.
No HP stamp. (Although I thought that didn't affect the block anyway and was just the internals???)
Correct...hp is just a stamp, blocks are not different. A 70 440 hp should have the heavier rods like a six pack and be externally balanced. Hard to say what rods were used, hopefully you have a good aftermarket set with good bolts.
Is there anyway visually to tell what bolts I have? Maybe special markings on the head of the bolt?
Do ARP bolts have a special marking or perhaps a little different color? The motor only has 1K miles after the rebuild so maybe I can see something there.
OK, now I can't wait to find out. Draining the oil now and going to wait until tomorrow so that the internals are pretty oil free. I'll scope it then.
Thought you might like my sign since I am going a day or two without oil in the block.
Thought you might like my sign since I am going a day or two without oil in the block.
Looks Like ARP Bolts have markings, so hoping for the best when I scope it tomorrow...
I am sure all the experts here already know this.
I know some of you guys aren't in favor of it, but I would be happy to save the bottom end and not pull the motor. I am 60+ and it would suck for me.
My son could help but since I failed him as a child he knows nothing about engines or car work in general.
My bad! Too late now...
I am envious of the guys that have their sons or daughter work on their classics and enjoy it.
I am sure all the experts here already know this.
I know some of you guys aren't in favor of it, but I would be happy to save the bottom end and not pull the motor. I am 60+ and it would suck for me.
My son could help but since I failed him as a child he knows nothing about engines or car work in general.
My bad! Too late now...
I am envious of the guys that have their sons or daughter work on their classics and enjoy it.
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If the rods are truly aftermarket.. the bolts can't be stock.
Nice sign... smart man.
Nice sign... smart man.
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