Some of the aftermarket rods use bolts instead of studs, That would be the easiest to identify, I would focus on identifying the rods.
Mystery 440- Help!
- Thread starter BigLime
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I am going to take some pics and videos tomorrow and rely on the experts here to help out!
550-600 hp with cast iron manifolds is going to be difficult
Yeah, I know. I‘ll have to cross that bridge later. I really dislike headers.
I thought perhaps I’d port match them to the new heads to help out a little? They are the HP manifolds which will help a bit.
OK, so scoped the bottom end this morning to see what goodies I may have in the mystery motor.
I have attached the pics and my comments.
As always, comments are greatly appreciated.
Crank- Forged? Man, they did a crap job machining the sides. Must be great for creating a great amount of oil mist.
I have attached the pics and my comments.
As always, comments are greatly appreciated.
Crank- Forged? Man, they did a crap job machining the sides. Must be great for creating a great amount of oil mist.
Anyone recognize this rod marking?
Also, anyone recognize the rod part number? I haven't tried to look up anything yet.
I couldn't get the camera on top of the rods to look at the head of the bolt for markings. I will probably try again later today.
Also, anyone recognize the rod part number? I haven't tried to look up anything yet.
I couldn't get the camera on top of the rods to look at the head of the bolt for markings. I will probably try again later today.
It's a stock bottom end with new pistons.
The better the piston pics, the better we might be able to identify them
The better the piston pics, the better we might be able to identify them
While I have the oil drained, anything else you think I should be looking at?
Do you need just better all around pics of the pistons or trying to find markings? I will look again, but I did not see any markings other than an "O" and the directional mark for installation.It's a stock bottom end with new pistons.
The better the piston pics, the better we might be able to identify them
Yes mainly any markings on the bottom of the piston head.
The nut end of the rod bolts too.
With that nice scope...Pull a plug out and look at the top of the piston.
Oem rods are not bad, mopars were all forged, not cast like most gm rods. I'd rather run a factory set then "cheap" chinese set, but past 600hp we run eagle and scat rods. If it has a light pistons that helps them considerably. They likely have been gone through...better picture of the rod bolts would help.
We ran 550-600hp with stock rods arp bolts for years. Even went throuh the traps a couple times at 8300. We have pulled one in two that even had arp bolts....but a cylinder wall was split. Likely any rod would've let go.
Oem rods are not bad, mopars were all forged, not cast like most gm rods. I'd rather run a factory set then "cheap" chinese set, but past 600hp we run eagle and scat rods. If it has a light pistons that helps them considerably. They likely have been gone through...better picture of the rod bolts would help.
We ran 550-600hp with stock rods arp bolts for years. Even went throuh the traps a couple times at 8300. We have pulled one in two that even had arp bolts....but a cylinder wall was split. Likely any rod would've let go.
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Basically, you will never break a stock rod, no matter how shitty you think they may be. (Not sure why you came to that conclusion)
As I mentioned before, you can take any bone stock crappy junkyard 440, and put those little blowers on them , and they'll be happier than a pig in poop. Or put a 250 shot on them, they don't care. Seen it many times.
No need to create a new reality.
Worst case scenario ; melt the corner off a piston from incorrect fuel mixture. Which is ten times more likely with a boosted program.
Keep in mind that I know very little about 440's. I have always been a Chevy fan so I appreciate all the comments. There are always little tricks and in the know type knowledge that you guys have. Just trying to get into the groove.
From what I hear, the rod bolts/studs are one of the most important things since many have said that they are a weak point on this particular engine when it comes to big power adds???
I say these things because a lot of guys are saying pull the block and start over. I am glad to hear that it (seems like) you would be in favor of me keeping the bottom end as is.
Honestly, I am not worried about just melting the corner of a piston and throwing valves against pistons. Funny enough, my only concern is the body of the car since it is super clean and is the only reason I bought the car. As long as I don't send a piston through the hood then I am OK with a blown engine and then a rebuild. I really hate body work and there is no way anyone is going to match the multi-step process paint that is on the car.
I like to do anything mechanical and this car gives me a nice starting point.
In AZ, I am going to run Meth. injection with boost. With new heads, Intake and an EFI carb, I think a simple bolt on Procharger at a max of 8 lbs boost will get me to my horsepower "needs".
As long as I don't detonate I think I should be OK.
Thanks!!!
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Thanks for your input.
Wow, 8300... Your talking a big block right?
If I keep the bottom end I think I am going to rev. limit to ~6500 anyway on the street. The mini blower will keep the torque up there at the lower RPM's after a shift. (I think.)
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Here are some more pics. Thanks for you help.
My comments:
No markings on pistons under the rod pin.
Rod bolt and nut pic attached. Any possible manufacturer match to the round hole at the bottom of the Rod bolt???
The rust on the rod seems funny to me. The rebuild was done in 2015 and with the oil and AZ dry weather, I am surprised to see caked on rust under what looks like to be oil residue. It almost looks like he reused the old rods. The builder says he put in new rods. What do you think?
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You should be showing a pair of pliers hammering in a nail!
The mini centrifugal blower is going to feel like it is blowing up a balloon with the HP manifolds. I am going to try it anyway. Can't hurt to try. Can always go the headers later after the dyno disappointment (Perhaps).
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