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New Solid Lifter Flat Tappet Break in Confusion ?

That's why I'm asking.....my over reacting tendency is "any wear" must be bad,....but you're right, a good used cam does look well polished & buff'd.....Break-in fails seem to look way over polished (like lobe polished off) causing all the under-lubed concerns....I never heard of an over-lubed cam or lifter complaint....with all the ZDDP & Moly-di anti-friction additives lathered on, I never heard a flat fail blamed on over lubrication reasons ...
 
My new Lunati solid lifter flat tappet break in Plan was to use the supplied black Moly Lube paste + Valvoline Conventional VR1 10W30 Racing Oil that's Highly rated on 540Rat's Oil Wear Protection Test that stimulates thin oil film performance protection Without any hi ZDDP oil Additives that Reduce the oil's scuff rating....Of course, all of Lunati's warranty Required J Gibbs hi ZDDP "Driven" Conventional Break In oils & additive suppliments test very Low to Lowest on 540Rat's Oil Wear Protection Test !! ....The Cam company Requires the Highest ZDDP ppm content & Rat's Oil Test shows 1200--1500 ppm ZDDP is optimum (VR1=1500 ppm) with > 1800 ppm Dangerous bad ! ....I just want a good, non-eventful Cam break in ! Both cam oil wear "experts" impossibly opposite & incompatible !! How do you guys work this cam break in successfully ?
Hi zinc and Phosphated oil. NO exceptions!!
 
I used the Gibbs break-in oil and removed the inners with my Howard's cam and everything went perfectly. THE most important thing is make sure your lifters are rotating in the bores BEFORE you do anything else. Mark them with a Sharpie while you set your lash to make sure they are rotating.

Gus
 
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