Paint, what is the best

[mr.belvedere]

Definitely BC/CC. If cost is a concern, Transtar clears are wallet friendly and awesome to work with. Same goes for Rubber-Seal's epoxy primer. Every bit as good as PPG's DP primer at half the price. I'd still stick with PPG's DBC or Global system for base.

 

[AdamR]

I've used rubber seal primers before also. Not bad. I also like roberlos primers. Real thick and I like the light gray color. Makes guide coats really stick out.

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Playing devils advocate here, I have seen a lot of problems intermixing systems over the years, and I have no experience at all with Transtar or the above mentioned rubber seal primers. What I have seen (not related to any of the above products) while working at a very high quality shop is a problem with clears peeling due to incompatibility and inability of the clear to properly chemically crosslink with a foriegn basecoat. We were using a beautiful clear (cannot remember the name) and it was nearly 1/2 the price of our paint lines product. Approx. a year after using the clear we started seeing comebacks related to peeling, the clear didn't crosslink with the base. A very costly problem. One thing I have found in my 30 years in industry is it's a little risky intermixing products. You have no recourse if materials fail. Having said that I know that technologies have changed and products are better than they were 12 years ago. Guys, this isn't a rip on anyone, just my 2 cents.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Alright, so basicly, I should fork over the coin to get a good quality paint job. But one has to consider cost and raising a family, so either I wait, or use something that can be had at reasonble costs and done at home. Anyone want to do some pro bono work? ha!!

 

[AdamR]

You will pay more in the long run to do it your self honestly.

As for mixing systems. I dont disagree with that. I would prefer to use all of one line from primer to clear how ever I dont have that say at my shop and my boss has used transtar clear on top of every base coat he's ever used since before I even did body work. I have seen a problem yet.

Another thing to consider is when a paint manufacture buys up another company they will tell you its safe to mix those brands. For instance, We use Spies Hecker which is owned by Dupont. Our rep has tried to sell us on Nason clears and Primer stating they are just as cheap as the Trastar we use but because they are owned by Dupont they are conpatable with our Spies.

 

[1BLUEMOFO]

Some nice paint fellas, I would love to get my Fury like that slowmaro in the first pic.

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Some nice paint fellas, I would love to get my Fury like that slowmaro in the first pic.

Ship er up! Hell, drive it up and have a holiday!
Thx...J

Adamr is right in a lot of respects, for a first class job you have to lay out the bucks. Painting truly is a do it right the first time expense. It takes all stages of the job to be just right, metalwork, filler work, prep for undercoat, paint prep and application to be just right. And those that truly know, even when everything has been done just so, the paint job can go sideways in a hurry as many factors can pop up in the middle of the job. Then you pay out of pocket for your own problems...if the shop has problems, they absorb it in order to give you what they promised to deliver, a quality job. Materials and equipment to do the job right are very expensive...there are no shortcuts that give quality results...Save your pennies, it'll be worth it in the long run.
-Cheers

 

[AdamR]

Do some research of what materials are really going to cost.

DA paper is $100 a roll.
Long board paper about $80 a box

plastic filler between $13 and $55 a gallon depending on what you use.

Epoxy or etching primer about $120 a gallon set up.
Poly Primer, about $80 a gallon
2K primer about $120 a gallon

Paint, The red used on my Dart was $800 a gallon. and I could have used more in the trunk and engine bay.

Clear, $150 a gallon set up.

Thats not even close to everything. Tool, buffing supplies, it all adds up to big bucks.

 

[my66-67-68-69-72bbodies]

here's a pic of mine with spies hecker

notice the reflection of me and the other cars and parking lot in the paint

 

[my66-67-68-69-72bbodies]

and here's another

pic

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Nice job, Spies is a good product!

 

[5.7 hemi]

Well, if you wanna play, you gotta PAY. So now I'll borrow my buddies trailer and take to the local shops and get some quotes. What are the winning lotto numbers?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Anyone want to come to my house for the weekend, all the food and drink you can handle in exchage for prep work?lol!

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Watch what you wish for, you wouldn't want to see my booze bill for a weekend!
Good luck eh!

 

[5.7 hemi]

Ha ha! Work FIRST, then get our drink on.

 

[mr.belvedere]

Talk to some painters, alot of guys need a drink or two before goin into the booth! It steadies the hand.:yes:

 

[AdamR]

Talk to some painters, alot of guys need a drink or two before goin into the booth! It steadies the hand.:yes:

Thats because they are alcoholics, LOL

 

[5.7 hemi]

Gonna try to primer some stuff this weekend, trunk lid, scoop, hood, we'll see how they turn out.

 

[AdamR]

Priming is a great way to get use to the gun. This is the point Im at right now. I prime everything in the shop, sometimes edge out parts and spray jams with color. My boss does most of the paint/clearing.

Theres a lot more to gun control then you would think. My gun has a tall cup on it, Fill it with pain and it gets heavy fast. Get use to spraying with both hands.

It takes a lot of practice to learn how close to hold the gun. How fast to move your hand with out leaving dry spots or runs. Its gott be right in the middle and its pretty tough to do with clear.

Its no big deal with primer because your going to block it out but leave a dry spot in the clear and your in trouble.

When shooting primer I hold the gun about 10 to 12 inches from the surface and move just fast enough to keep it from piling up and looking like cottage cheese. Any part that Im going to block gets 4 coats of 2K primer, Then let it sit and gas out for a week, Spray guide coat and block, Let sit for another week before re priming.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Thanks Adamr, I bought some 3m dry guide coat so I can the imperfections. I'll practice on the hood and trunk lid, flat so I should'nt really screw them up too badly.