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Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger

moparedtn said:
What exactly is/are the differences in the two springs? Stiffness? Length? Wire gauge?
Click to expand...
They are the same length. I couldn't tell by feel that the unpainted one was any stiffer. It made some improvement but not much when at operating temperature except at WOT. That alone gives some piece of mind.

The FBO ignition box seems fine but the tach now bounces. The connections are tight. I'll fiddle with it a bit more but seeing the tach bounce is annoying.

I have the rear float set to the middle of the sight glass. I was just finishing up as it got dark and the temperature dropped off.
Yeah....at 46 degrees, you tough guys in the snow country are not deterred at all but I don't like it!
 
QuickBpBp said:
I just read about the cam and the wiped lobes… Had a 440 wipe 2 lobes on a MP 528 decades ago… Pulled the motor build another short block and put that motor in with the top end off the other and a new cam.. Years later I tore the short block apart and the crank and bearings were perfect which told me all that metal was in the filter.. Even the oil pump rotor assembly looked like new. I don’t doubt that you will find the same once you open up the bottom end..
Click to expand...
I hope that I won't need to pull this engine again anytime soon. The only changes that I was considering was the Trick Flow 240 heads and a roller cam. The heads were on a LONG backorder or I would have used them in this build while the engine was out.
 
Interesting that your tach is bouncing.. Does it move a lot?
When I had that system on my car, and even now my (Auto Meter 'Street Tach') never stays completely still, but I chalk that up to the slightly more radical idle...and your cam is a little bigger than mine.
 
beanhead said:
Interesting that your tach is bouncing.. Does it move a lot?
When I had that system on my car, and even now my (Auto Meter 'Street Tach') never stays completely still, but I chalk that up to the slightly more radical idle...and your cam is a little bigger than mine.
Click to expand...
At the 950 idle, it bounces up to 1500 and back to 950. It flutters a bit through regular operation as well. That is likely to be an issue with the coil though, I'd suspect.
 
Kern Dog said:
At the 950 idle, it bounces up to 1500 and back to 950. It flutters a bit through regular operation as well. That is likely to be an issue with the coil though, I'd suspect.
Click to expand...
Hmm okay...I've used those a few times and never seen that big a needle swing (that didn't coincide with engine RPM).
It worked good on mine, I swear!
Seriously though I hope it didn't somehow go bad sitting on my shelf or I'll feel really bad.. Dammit!
 
khryslerkid said:
It's the site if you're not gold. I have adguard and it works great anywhere else but here. Par for the coarse :rolleyes:

How ya doing Ed?
Click to expand...
I run AdGuard constantly and it's never failed to work on any/all sites I visit (I'm on my PC, running Edge browser;
phone results may vary, can't speak for them).
The other bigtime one is AdBlock Plus, which I run on the Chrome browser I infrequently use.

Eh, what's left of this "machine" runs cold and hot these days brother....been running pretty cold these last
several days, I have to admit.
You?
 
So the red ones are the pressure springs that were used in the late 60s Magnum motors and HD truck applications and the black ones are the high pressure race ones, they are about the same length; different spring rate like valve springs. I believe the early 60s stock pumps had unpainted springs were even lower pressure than the reds.

Can't say whether current aftermarket pumps would follow suit on the spring color. In the past I have checked them on my valve spring checker and there is a notable difference, but I don't remember the pressure numbers. I still have a few in of the DC black ones on the shelf.

Same retirement recognition offer to you as the factory main seal housing, just say the word and give me your address and I'll send you one. Though my preference is not to have a 80-100 psi oil pressure, but I maybe that's just me. And yes a little washer will work also, and then there is the external adjuster that (Milodon? or Moroso) sells (or used to sell) and you can dial it to what you want.
 
I sure don't need any more cold idle pressure but I wouldn't mind a bit more pressure when the engine is up to temperature.
These numbers are close to what I had before the rebuild so I really shouldn't be worried. The crank bearings looked fine during teardown.

Regarding the rear seal housing. I would LOVE to have a spare. I can't let you give it away though.....At the very least, let me pay the shipping costs.
 
moparedtn said:
I run AdGuard constantly and it's never failed to work on any/all sites I visit (I'm on my PC, running Edge browser;
phone results may vary, can't speak for them).
The other bigtime one is AdBlock Plus, which I run on the Chrome browser I infrequently use.

Eh, what's left of this "machine" runs cold and hot these days brother....been running pretty cold these last
several days, I have to admit.
You?
Click to expand...

Good :thumbsup:
 
We're good, as long as you only retire once. Now if there are do-overs like some people get married over and over, then....
 
I have no intention of going back to full time Union work.
I may take a short term job when I get bored or just want to score some cash.
 
Kern Dog said:
The FBO ignition box seems fine but the tach now bounces. The connections are tight. I'll fiddle with it a bit more but seeing the tach bounce is annoying.
Click to expand...
Did you install the diode on your coil wire?
 
moparedtn said:
Why would this be an issue with the "better" FBO ECU but not with the factory ones?
Click to expand...
Many years ago now I had this issue with Don's control box. He had no idea what was going on. Pretty much blaming it on my tach. If you have dealt with Don at all, you know that he is very opinionated. I like the guys control boxes, and use them, but really can't stand the man. I buy his stuff on ebay so I don't have to deal with him. Anyway, I got Shannon at Redline involved and he figured out the problem. Shannon sent me a few diodes for my cars and the issue was resolved. Ever since then, a diode is included when you buy a new FBO control box.......
 
I got the ECU and coil from @beanhead. It came with a jumper wire to bridge together the wires for the ballast resistor but that is all.
I agree on your assessment of Don's personality. Holy **** is that guy abrasive! I sent him an email asking for advice back in 2014. He ripped my combination for being all fucked up and essentially said my setup was untune-able until I changed several things.
 
Up around 7:00 today. Mary has some business calls and the dogs need to be fed!
 
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