Solid Rollers or Flat Tappet for street and strip. Looking for LONGEVITY and low maintenance!

[biomedtechguy]

You put a good set of Harland Sharps on a .650 lift cam and they will out live several engines.

Funny you mentioned those 2.
I'm taking the time right now and reading through AndyF 's Max Performance Mopar Big Block book, and the .650 lift figure seems to be where the "safe" or at least uncomplicated lift figure is. Beyond that and the geometry and other factors come into play in a big way, and that means greater complexity and cost.
As far as Harland Sharp rockers go, I am favoring those, but I will leave that up to the builder to make the final decision.
Thanks.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I’ll use the Harland Sharps on the lower power engines, but they seem to have a ton of play in the roller tip. I used them on that 780hp TF270 build and wished I would’ve opted for the T&D’s.

Good to know as well. Most Harland Sharp reviews I've read are favorable.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Good to know as well. Most Harland Sharp reviews I've read are favorable.

I plan to add a Set of Harland’s to my 511. It has Indy’s now, they’ve actually been trouble free with the FT so I haven’t worried about it. Yes, .650 is a good safe spot to be. It’s when you start going over .700 things sometimes deteriorate on street engines.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Again, going from a planned stock block based stroker in the 505-512 range to a 541 should allow for some of the supporting power producing equipment to not have to be too extreme, given the inherent added power of 30 or so cubic inches, and moving from TF240s to TF270s. I don't want the torque peak to move too high up the RPM range, and the bigger heads tend to do that, but that is offset by the bigger displacement.
I think that a well balanced, properly planned 541 is going to be an ANIMAL I can live with on the street, and a LOT of fun at the 1320.

 

[440rb]

Agreed....and thats exactly why we went for this 589ci motor, I was asked to come up with a 505/512 build at first probably using his 440 block, would've worked out as, if not more expensive to do than the ...£10k GBP he paid for the whole motor built!! @700hp a stock block no matter what you put in the bottom end to keep it alive wouldn't last, and that would always be at the back of our minds.
With 700hp at under 6k rpm (even with our BIG heads) and 720+ftlbs with the new motor it WILL be an animal on the street and run the 10.50's just as he wanted in 3850lbs? (mega blocks are heavy) and have the potential to go 850hp+ with the right changes but it will need regular checks on lash etc. which is just part of what it has inside it, a small price to pay.

In your case it makes even more sense as your planning on hitting it with 200hp N20.

I ran HS r/rockers on my 440 motor moons ago with a comp .650/.650/[email protected] sft cam, personally@the time I thought it was quite a mild cam, ticked over@900rpm etc......checked lash about 2>3 times, never bothered again as it never moved and that motor saw 7300rpm a few times@traps with N20.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Agreed....and thats exactly why we went for this 589ci motor, I was asked to come up with a 505/512 build at first probably using his 440 block, would've worked out as, if not more expensive to do than the ...£10k GBP he paid for the whole motor built!! @700hp a stock block no matter what you put in the bottom end to keep it alive wouldn't last, and that would always be at the back of our minds.
With 700hp at under 6k rpm (even with our BIG heads) and 720+ftlbs with the new motor it WILL be an animal on the street and run the 10.50's just as he wanted in 3850lbs? (mega blocks are heavy) and have the potential to go 850hp+ with the right changes but it will need regular checks on lash etc. which is just part of what it has inside it, a small price to pay.

In your case it makes even more sense as your planning on hitting it with 200hp N20.

I ran HS r/rockers on my 440 motor moons ago with a comp .650/.650/[email protected] sft cam, personally@the time I thought it was quite a mild cam, ticked over@900rpm etc......checked lash about 2>3 times, never bothered again as it never moved and that motor saw 7300rpm a few times@traps with N20.

A LOT of info there 440rb, and thanks for paying attention to the details of my posts.
With the TF270s as my self imposed cylinder head port size limit, because of a 3x2 intake being a MUST-nonnegotiable, I think it would be best to use the 4.25 stroke vs the 4.50. No clearance issues, I'm just thinking the .25 shorter stroke makes sense.
AndyF said so, and I asked specifically if the 4.25 stroke I was thinking of was a good choice, and he said that is exactly what he would do, w/the Max Wedge TF270s. Hard to argue with that!
How are you getting to 589 cu in ? (EEK!)

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

they have their purpose. One thing about comp is they have great customer service and their lifters are rebuildable. Long as you understand that the lifters are a maint item they work fine on a street/strip car. I have a few sets of 829’s out in the garage. They are my go to for stock un-bushed blocks. I have no experience with the 828’s. @HEMI-ITIS is your block bushed?

No,my lifter bores are not bushed and before I went to the 848 I tried to use Red Zones but they had false advertising.After speaking to owner "Rich",,,,,he said to send his "****" back to him and I did. Never will I buy any of his products!
I had bad luck with the Comp 829 lifters,due to my street driving. I have friends that use the 829 lifters in a dedicated race car.

 

[Hemirunner]

I street drove for a decade on a set of 829s. I still have them as I pulled them out just as a precaution. By durability, I meant running lobes that aren’t maximizing the limits of aggressiveness for every last horsepower and coupling those mild lobes with a reasonable valve spring. The cam in that engine could have easily been ground with lobes that would have made another 75hp or so but it would have been a crap shoot as to its survival on the street.

 

[440rb]

A LOT of info there 440rb, and thanks for paying attention to the details of my posts.
With the TF270s as my self imposed cylinder head port size limit, because of a 3x2 intake being a MUST-nonnegotiable, I think it would be best to use the 4.25 stroke vs the 4.50. No clearance issues, I'm just thinking the .25 shorter stroke makes sense.
AndyF said so, and I asked specifically if the 4.25 stroke I was thinking of was a good choice, and he said that is exactly what he would do, w/the Max Wedge TF270s. Hard to argue with that!
How are you getting to 589 cu in ? (EEK!)

589ci in our case is a 4.565 bore x 4.500 stroke, Mega block was sonic checked and the thrust side is ok, bit thin on no.7 at the rear according to the figures if they are correct, I am a bit concerned about bore size. It would've been better as a 4.500 x 4.625 stroke which is the norm for a 588 on a 4.800 bore space but it is what it is. The engine/Dana is already in the car its just the rest and he can frightened the s&*t out of himself on the first test run on the street, and actually on the first full hit off the line as well.
I'm no expert builder at all but I would go along with your 4.25 stroke with the 270's, however personally I think a 4.500 bore is rather large for 270's but will still work, your not going for all out 1/4 performance..(yet!!).
Have followed AndyF's builds myself and learnt a lot as I had to get up to speed on everything in todays world as I haven't raced since 1991 and had to catch up on stuff. The not so easy thing to understand is how big cubes (512 upwards) has an affect on lessening stated cam [email protected] and therefore choice. Our max hp was made@5500rpm>5900=/-1hp but our set up should see us trapping@around 6300 with 4.10/29" tyres and converter slip so ok. My mates gone for a low first gear in the 727 as well under advice, wheelies are (cool over here), not so much in my opinion. So perhaps in your case you may be good with a .650 sft cam and edm's or similar with 1.5 rockers, I'm sure your guys will see you right.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I would go along with your 4.25 stroke with the 270's, however personally I think a 4.500 bore is rather large for 270's but will still work

The aluminum block I am getting is available in 2 bore sizes, and I certainly don't want the smaller one, so 4.49 is how it comes. The Max Wedge ports are so I can have a 3x2 manifold, and I'm hoping it will work with my N96 Air Grabber, although I expect to have to do some trimming. Even more so if I add the Nitrous Express 2bbl plate system.

 

[440rb]

On reflection your 4.500 bore will help those 270's to flow a bit more than the advertised cfm given with a 4.350 bore.

 

[biomedtechguy]

On reflection your 4.500 bore will help those 270's to flow a bit more than the advertised cfm given with a 4.350 bore.

The reasons for moving to the 270s is to "do justice" to a 541 cu in motor, versus the TF 240s, which I think would be a really bad mismatch (too small) but still being able to use a 3x2 intake, which is the only non-negotiable input I will not compromise on because the 3x2 intake is probably THE most recognizable parameter of a V-code. It is the defining factor. I also like the idea of being able to say "It's got Max Wedge ports!" because that has always impressed me, since my days as a teenager, going to the New Orleans public library and reading the yearly "manufacturer engine specs" charts, compression ratio, solid or hydraulic lifters, horsepower and torque numbers....
From a practical standpoint, choosing the TF270s will keep the torque peak from being too high in the RPM range, (versus a larger port head, which I will certainly have the cubic inches to support) and keep the cost within reach, because larger than Max Wedge ports would mean more RPMs which means all of the supporting hardware would have to move up the quality scale.
Now I honestly don't know how the size of an engine can make a cylinder head flow more than the stated specifications at a particular lift, and I suspect the intake manifold and carburetors would be the most likely choke point, and I guess an engine that is too small or doesn't rev high enough could cause heads to flow less than their capability, but the physics of how they could exceed their rating is beyond me.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Cylinder head flow comes from being flowed on a spherical tube that imitates an engine bore. The trickflow numbers come from being flowed probably on a 4.350 tube. If you change the tube size it affects the flow numbers. Sometimes dramatically depending on the combustion chamber. Generally a bigger tube increases the numbers. If your head is flowed on a 4.5 bore but you put it on an engine with a 4.3 bore it will not flow as advertised. That’s where hemi heads have an advantage, the way the valves open they are less susceptible to the bore size affecting flow.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Got it!
Even BETTER! Thanks!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Cylinder head flow comes from being flowed on a spherical tube that imitates an engine bore. The trickflow numbers come from being flowed probably on a 4.350 tube. If you change the tube size it affects the flow numbers. Sometimes dramatically depending on the combustion chamber. Generally a bigger tube increases the numbers. If your head is flowed on a 4.5 bore but you put it on an engine with a 4.3 bore it will not flow as advertised. That’s where hemi heads have an advantage, the way the valves open they are less susceptible to the bore size affecting flow.

Not lookin to HyJack,but what about a 4.5 bore and huge hemi fueler head ports?? Boosted of course

 

[biomedtechguy]

Not lookin to HyJack,but what about a 4.5 bore and huge hemi fueler head ports?? Boosted of course

Gotta have a 3x2 intake....
Is there a blow thru hat for a 3x2 setup?
Lol.
If I were to ever break from my 3x2 mandatory intake, I'd either have a 8x1 EFI stack or 2x4 intake...
But I don't think I'm ever going to allow anything on my V-code except for a 3x2.
If I want to upgrade from my Promax modded Holley carbs, the F&B direct port injection TB system is THE choice, proven power making and DAYUMM! GOOD LOOKIN'!

And if I ever decided that I could do without what I consider THE most AWESOME fresh air intake of the entire muscle car era, well I'd probably do the F&B setup on the Weiand low profile tunnel ram, because that looks amazing, and I can't wait to read about how it works...
Look at this AWESOMENESS:

 

[Budnicks]

my answers start at post #36 page 2 IIRC go to the next page #3
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/hyd-roller-lifters-which-one.184028/page-2

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Red Zone BBM lifters never had pressurized oil to the needles or PR oiling ability. When 1st came out years ago I bought a set of Red Zone lifters,,,,they were advertised to all have this ability.Had words with Rich before doing as he requested and sent his "****" back to him and getting Comp 848 lifters......In the history books now.

doesn’t look like comp sells the 848 any more? I was just looking for a friend

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

doesn’t look like comp sells the 848 any more? I was just looking for a friend

This appears to be the listing. Application is for AMC, must have been superseded . Please call comp and verify it is the new 848. Pushrod oiling able and pressurized oil to the needle bearings and rebuildable.

https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/861-1/10002/-1

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Gotta have a 3x2 intake....
Is there a blow thru hat for a 3x2 setup?
Lol.
If I were to ever break from my 3x2 mandatory intake, I'd either have a 8x1 EFI stack or 2x4 intake...
But I don't think I'm ever going to allow anything on my V-code except for a 3x2.
If I want to upgrade from my Promax modded Holley carbs, the F&B direct port injection TB system is THE choice, proven power making and DAYUMM! GOOD LOOKIN'!
View attachment 881575 View attachment 881576
And if I ever decided that I could do without what I consider THE most AWESOME fresh air intake of the entire muscle car era, well I'd probably do the F&B setup on the Weiand low profile tunnel ram, because that looks amazing, and I can't wait to read about how it works...
Look at this AWESOMENESS:
View attachment 881578

That mounting plate looks like it would fit nice on a BLOWER!!