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Solid Rollers or Flat Tappet for street and strip. Looking for LONGEVITY and low maintenance!

Comp 848 lifters
COMP Cams Endure-X roller lifters set the standards for solid roller lifter technology. Designed with oiling and inboard link bars, they are engineered to withstand the demands of aggressive cam lobe designs and increased RPM ranges. Featuring a wear resistant tool steel axle, precision sorted needle bearings, and EDM Oil Injection technology that guarantees the bearing assembly receives a constant flow of oil. Endure-X Solid Roller Lifters are heat treated, machined to ultra-high tolerances, and fully rebuildable
I went with CompCams hydraulic FT lifters, springs, locks, and retainers when I had to replace the lifters and springs on my current mill. Valvoline VR1 oil since I brought the car home. The CompCams parts have performed fantastic, and I also went with CompCams hydraulic roller cam and lifters for the 421 in the GTO, with zero problems.
The main reason for my insistence on solid lifters for my 541 stroker build is Jim Laroy's absolute insistence upon no hydraulic rollers, which came after the 421 build. Jim has his reasons, and as tempting as hydraulic rollers are, I can't defy Jim Laroy's advice, and if I did, and had a problem because of that, I'd sure be ashamed of myself for having been warned.
@IQ52 can you add anything to this thread? Refresh us all on why you warn against hydraulic roller lifters and what have you seen in a durable, low maintenance, reliable roller lifter?
 
You could always talk to Mike Jones cams re a custom solid roller or flat tappet . And he also supplies a good solid roller lifter

Tex
 
I would argue that pressurized oiling is not necessarily the definition of a good lifter, roller or flat tappet. My engine guy of 20 years, who sees nothing but race stuff all day long and is a Comp Cam Distributor, recommended I use the Red Zones.

You should also consider taking you research on some matters beyond the internet and one or two published books.
 
The crowers like I have use the bushing instead of needles (you can get them with needles also) and pressure feed the wheel as well as the pushrods if desired. Hence why I chose them for my HEMI. If I ever do drag week I’ll be ready to go. With a bushed block there is no reason I would ever choose a lifter that does not supply oil to the wheel period.
 
Just an FYI:
I bought a set of EDM lifters from Crower. Not cheap for flat tappets. Over 400 bucks.

Received them and when I was washing them in the parts washer I ran fluid through the EDM holes with the washer hose.

One of 16 came with no EDM hole. Called Crower and they sent another, no questions asked (they were surprised)

Point being, check EVERYTHNG!
 
I think the majority of needle bearing roller failures come down to two root causes:

1.) Improper valve spring
2.) Lack of oiling

More valve spring pressure is not always the answer to control the lifter. Valve spring rate and seat pressures as well as ramp rate are huge considerations and all have to be paired to the application of the engine. Durability should be a key concern over power production for street cars, especially something like a DW car.
 
Durability should be a key concern over power production for street cars, especially something like a DW car.
Because my plan is for a 541 cu in, I don't think power production goals are going to have any problems being met or exceeded. Before I decided to go with an aftermarket block, I had a 6XX HP/650 TQ goal. The cam is going to have to provide the flattest, highest torque curve that is reasonable, without cutting too deeply into horsepower, and taking into consideration the Max Wedge TF270s
So lifters and cam reliability and trouble free operation, with minimal maintenance should not be a problem.
There will be a couple of areas with room for growth in the form of higher power production should I ever want to pursue them.
 
Comp Cam EndureX - $500. Very surprised. I wouldn't put a $500 roller lifter in anything.
 
Comp Cam EndureX - $500. Very surprised. I wouldn't put a $500 roller lifter in anything.

they have their purpose. One thing about comp is they have great customer service and their lifters are rebuildable. Long as you understand that the lifters are a maint item they work fine on a street/strip car. I have a few sets of 829’s out in the garage. They are my go to for stock un-bushed blocks. I have no experience with the 828’s. @HEMI-ITIS is your block bushed?
 
Seems like solid roller lifters with a bushing rather than needle bearings, the bushing has less opportunity for catastrophic damage to occur.
Basically if the bushing becomes worn it causes the lash to increase.
I sure wouldn't want needle bearings scattered throughout my $XX,000 engine.
 
Seems like solid roller lifters with a bushing rather than needle bearings, the bushing has less opportunity for catastrophic damage to occur.
Basically if the bushing becomes worn it causes the lash to increase.
I sure wouldn't want needle bearings scattered throughout my $XX,000 engine.

And needle bearings is also why I chose non-full roller rocker arms. Roller on the tip, none in the body. Less to go wrong.
 
And needle bearings is also why I chose non-full roller rocker arms. Roller on the tip, none in the body. Less to go wrong.
Needle bearings in a pivot application is just plain stupid. I’ll never understand it. If they’re cheap *** 440 source junk, the hardened needles will eat into the cheap junk shafts.
 
And needle bearings is also why I chose non-full roller rocker arms. Roller on the tip, none in the body. Less to go wrong.
That's another question. More than likely going to use extruded aluminum rocker arms. I assume they too have bushings or bearings where they contact the rocker arm shaft, and then there's the roller on the valve side, which I don't know what kind of bearings or bushings are used...
Maybe I can read the chapter in AndyF's book today.
 
That's another question. More than likely going to use extruded aluminum rocker arms. I assume they too have bushings or bearings where they contact the rocker arm shaft, and then there's the roller on the valve side, which I don't know what kind of bearings or bushings are used...
Maybe I can read the chapter in AndyF's book today.

The Hughes set I have is unbushed, non-anodized. Roller on the tip. They have a squirter under the arm to hit the ball/cup pushrod and also a port up top to get oil to the roller tip. I like em but any brand name should be good.
20180604_163520.jpg
 
unbushed, non-anodized
Thanks threewood.
I'm surprised that aluminum, without anodizing, can handle all of that movement on a steel shaft w/out excessive wear. How is the rocker shaft rocker arm contact area lubricated?
 
Thanks threewood.
I'm surprised that aluminum, without anodizing, can handle all of that movement on a steel shaft w/out excessive wear. How is the rocker shaft rocker arm contact area lubricated?

They oil through the rocker shafts included with the kit. I figure they know what they are doing but I like them. They mention on their website that anodizing isn't the best on the contact area, or words to that effect. Watching the rockers run with the valve covers off shows plenty of oil at the shaft and tip.


I believe Mancini sells a rocker arm that is bronze bushed (Harland Sharp) on their website. No experience with them.
 
Watching the rockers run with the valve covers off shows plenty of oil at the shaft and tip
I sold my factory valve covers to a friend, but I made a pair he had to give me part of the deal. I wanted a set of less than perfect stock valve covers so I could cut the tops off just like in that video.
Thanks
 
The bearing in the rocker arms doesn’t bother me as long as it’s a quality set up. Harland Sharp, T&D. Those type of rockers seem to last forever unless it’s a high lift high spring pressure set up. Then the bodies have a life cycle. You put a good set of Harland sharps on a .650 lift cam and they will out live several engines. I haven’t ran into to many rockers with bushings, I had a set in my HEMI “BMS” that were bushed. Most of the time the alum just rides on the shaft. Works fine as long as they are properly clearanced and have adequate oil supply. As stated, good shafts are a must for any of them.
 
I’ll use the Harland Sharps on the lower power engines, but they seem to have a ton of play in the roller tip. I used them on that 780hp TF270 build and wished I would’ve opted for the T&D’s.
 
I’ll use the Harland Sharps on the lower power engines, but they seem to have a ton of play in the roller tip. I used them on that 780hp TF270 build and wished I would’ve opted for the T&D’s.

thats disappointing, probably like anything else I suppose where the price goes up but the quality goes down. Been prob 15 years or better since I’ve bought a set for anything.
 
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