Sudden Loss of All Electrical Power

[67Satty]

Drove my '67 Satellite 50 miles to the dragstrip today. No issues on the drive there. On my first pass, right after I let off the gas in the shutdown area, I lost all electrical power. I smelled burnt wiring smell and disconnected the battery after I pulled off the track. I checked the battery connections, the connection from the battery stud on the alternator, the starter relay connections, I took the bulkhead connections off and cleaned them with contact cleaner and made sure they had a good connection. The battery is a newer Napa battery and it shows 12.5 volts. I'm stumped any ideas? Thanks!

 

[Kern Dog]

Burned fusible link. It can melt and leave the insulation looking normal.

 

[NoCar2023]

Amp gauge?

 

[44070dart]

x2 ..Nasty little amp gauge .. loose wire on it ??...... happened to me with two different cars.. ditch that little bastard.

 

[Demonic]

I had a new negative cable that gave me trouble, bad repo.

 

[Moparnocar]

Do a voltage drop test on all main powers and grounds

There's a few threads on here where either the wiper motor or wiring was sucking voltage, killing the car intermediately

 

[451Mopar]

Most likely the fuseable link burnt. I would first disconnect the alternator connections. The High RPM run down the track may have broken a brush holder in the alternator causing a short circuit, or maybe the alternator output shorted? It's totally a guess about the alternator, but that is where I would start.

 

[threewood]

What others have said. Also check the bulkhead wiring underneath the dash where it connects. I had 2 wiring harnesses where one of the power feed wires melted and shorted against another wire right at the connector.

 

[Cranky]

On my 66, the original wire loom had worn through on the /6 valve cover. The alternator hot wire is the one that found ground and it took out the fusible link. For some reason it was one of the first things I checked and found the worn area so opened up the wiring harness and there it was so was able to get the car back running pretty fast.

 

[67Satty]

It looks like the hard plastic insulator that goes around the alternator battery stud and between the battery wire eyelet connector and the alternator body disintegrated maybe causing the wire to short against the alternator housing. My fusible link is also fried/melted. Does anyone know of a source for the hard plastic insulator and also for the fusible links? Looking online I saw classicindustries has the fusible link for $29.95. I wonder if somewhere like Napa has them cheaper. Sounds like I should also get my alternator tested.

 

[Kern Dog]

You can get fusible links from NAPA for under $8. I just save the hard plastic insulators when I strip a wire harness for parts. THey maybe the same all the way into the late 80s with trucks and vans so junkyards may be a cheap source for those.

 

[Cranky]

Bought some fusible links from the local auto parts but it doesn't look like the original but they are cheap. Bought a few thinking that my problem might be worse but it wasn't so still have a couple and looks like it'll go into a regular envelope or can send it to you in a mailer easily enough....it's 18ga.

 

[451Mopar]

It looks like the hard plastic insulator that goes around the alternator battery stud and between the battery wire eyelet connector and the alternator body disintegrated maybe causing the wire to short against the alternator housing. My fusible link is also fried/melted. Does anyone know of a source for the hard plastic insulator and also for the fusible links? Looking online I saw classicindustries has the fusible link for $29.95. I wonder if somewhere like Napa has them cheaper. Sounds like I should also get my alternator tested.

Found this Hardware Kit for the round back: $6.78
https://www.aspwholesale.com/hardware-kit-ch-p6978.html

Rebuild kit (diodes, bearings, ect.: $26.74
https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternator-rebuild-kits/chrysler-early-/repair-kit.html

Or rebuilt alternator (exchange): $24.33 to $53.89
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...417766,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

Autozone price for reman alternator $44.99 to 59.99
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...nator&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

 

[451Mopar]

I don't know what gauge fusible link is used? Most autoparts stores should carry generic ones with the circular connectors for about $5.00.
Crimp a male Packard 56 Terminal on the other end to snap into the connector that connects to the bulkhead connector.

 

[Cranky]

Mine was 18ga.....not many options on it except for AC.

 

[QOTHL]

It looks like the hard plastic insulator that goes around the alternator battery stud and between the battery wire eyelet connector and the alternator body disintegrated maybe causing the wire to short against the alternator housing. My fusible link is also fried/melted. Does anyone know of a source for the hard plastic insulator and also for the fusible links? Looking online I saw classicindustries has the fusible link for $29.95. I wonder if somewhere like Napa has them cheaper. Sounds like I should also get my alternator tested.

I got mine from O'Riellys but make sure the guy knows Mopar.

 

[QOTHL]

Most likely the fuseable link burnt. I would first disconnect the alternator connections. The High RPM run down the track may have broken a brush holder in the alternator causing a short circuit, or maybe the alternator output shorted? It's totally a guess about the alternator, but that is where I would start.

Not related to the issue, I've got a yellow car like that only mine is a shitbox, a cool shitbox but still a shitbox. I can see yours is a really nice car.

 

[Cranky]

Not related to the issue, I've got a yellow car like that only mine is a shitbox, a cool shitbox but still a shitbox. I can see yours is a really nice car.

My car was basically an SB too but a very solid one. Post a pic when you get a chance....

 

[joemish]

It's probably the fuseable link or the alternator gauge. Put a good ground to your motor from your firewall besides the battery to ground. You never can have too many grounds, and racing it vibrations do alot of loosening stuff. and tighten all connections recheck after every run.

 

[QOTHL]

My car was basically an SB too but a very solid one. Post a pic when you get a chance....