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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Oh I certainly did some swearing at it .... but 2 hours - 15 minutes cured her! Not what I needed 3 days before we leave for Talladega. Fuel gauge has been fine for a couple months. Loaded her in the trailer showing 1/2 tank the other day for a test run and took it out today showing empty. Fortunately I NEVER throw anything out... chiseled the sender out of my old Bee tank (that we'd soldered and sealed in there 40 years ago) to get a good float. Now we're good to go, we (Wife and I) plan on driving the **** out of this thing in Georgia and Alabama so definitely need a working gauge !
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Oh I certainly did some swearing at it .... but 2 hours - 15 minutes cured her! Not what I needed 3 days before we leave for Talladega. Fuel gauge has been fine for a couple months. Loaded her in the trailer showing 1/2 tank the other day for a test run and took it out today showing empty. Fortunately I NEVER throw anything out... chiseled the sender out of my old Bee tank (that we'd soldered and sealed in there 40 years ago) to get a good float. Now we're good to go, we (Wife and I) plan on driving the **** out of this thing in Georgia and Alabama so definitely need a working gauge !
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Glad you got her fixed. Heck, most of us don't know what it's like to have an accurate fuel gauge.
 
I installed the console, A-pillar molding, headliner molding in the front, and finally installed my shiny new dash trim pieces made by @SoCal440GTX .

They match the console wood grain but it does not show in the photos.


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I can handle not accurate... but empty at all times is of no help. Certainly don't want to run out of fuel during the 220+ car caravan to Talladega from Alexander City on Sunday!
 
Started building a filler panel to cover the large opening between the core support and grille support.

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Replaced the column in the '71 Charger after replacing the ignition switch. After pulling the switch, I tested it and there was no continuity through the switch between the red and the brown/yellow wires with the switch held to the start position. I gave the switch a good smack and tested it again and it tested fine. I shook it around a bit, tested again, and it tested bad. Guess I finally got to the bottom of my intermittent no start. What a PITA.

By the way, a bicycle repair stand works well for steering columns.
 
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Where you gonna store your beer now! LOL That' where we use to put it, down on the lower shield, with bags of ice on top back in the 70's!

Right inline with filling the washer bottle with some kind of alcohol :lol:
 
I use to just put the 40 of Rum up the drivers vent stack.. actually had to find a correct screw to hold the grill in place during the resto!
 
Where you gonna store your beer now! LOL That' where we use to put it, down on the lower shield, with bags of ice on top back in the 70's!
Along with pizza pockets or burritos on the valley pan! Wait I still do that on road trips lol..
 
And so it begins.. cluster has me worried, but a lot of good info here, AFTER I get it out. Have a new dash pad and will replace as soon as I have access to the nuts holding it.. The tic toc tach needs repair and gauge faces will be replaced. I love this car, so I'll make it work. Getting it on the road this week, just in time to put it away.

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Last week I mentioned that I put the first scratch on the 65.
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So I fixed it IMG_2958.jpg
 
Since my last post:

Front bucket seats, seat belts, head rests, front moisture barriers, door panels, arm rests, door handles, door lock ferrules and knobs.

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I buffed and installed the windshield trim, installed the scuff plates and extensions and routed the remote volume knob for the low profile subwoofer under the front passenger's seat to the glove box beside the Kenwood receiver.
 
Took arm rests off 65 and painted them. Working on fixing my transmission leak, speedometer housing seal, replaced once started again ordered a new housing
 
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