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What is everyone working on in the off season.

I’m reviving a 67 Satellite 383 4spd that has been sitting in a field for ten years. Was previously raced so already has 8 3/4 posi with Moroso wheel studs, scatter shield and driveshaft loop.

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I changed the motor mounts and moved from elephan ears to motor plate. since I was welding on the car I decided to fix the trans tunnel.... and since I had been welding and grinding I decided I might as well re-paint the engine department.
Well in order to do that I had to pull all the wiring out... SO that led me to re-wiring the entire car, LOL. I'm in the process of wiring in the panel now.
Still have a small list of things I need to do to before I can get it out next summer....But God willing I will have it out.

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fixing a couple of issues, pulled my dana 60 out today to correct pinion angle the right way, and ad sliders,,when u guys done this, did u bolt it all back in , no welding on new perches , use the u-bolts to hold it , and set pinion? rearend wont turn when full pressure of jack lifting it?
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fixing a couple of issues, pulled my dana 60 out today to correct pinion angle the right way, and ad sliders,,when u guys done this, did u bolt it all back in , no welding on new perches , use the u-bolts to hold it , and set pinion? rearend wont turn when full pressure of jack lifting it?View attachment 886871 View attachment 886872
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I set my pinion angle the way you have described except that I had the car sitting on it's tires at ride height. Once I had it set where I wanted it I tac welded the perches. I also centred the rear diff before the perches were tacked in place. My combo was with calverts / Caltracs and I set the PA @ 5 degrees negative. Make sure to box those perches.
 
I have accumulated a lot of parts over the last year, and those are going to be installed over the next 6 weeks or so...Complete QA1 Front suspension including the tubular K-member, 4x6 piston caliper Wilwood disc brakes and master cylinder. There are a lot of other things that aren't necessarily performance related, so I won't post that here.
add sliders
As soon as possible, I am going to purchase the rear suspension parts and get that "system" done. Calvert (or should I use AFCO?) sliders and split mono leaf springs, double adjustable Viking shocks (since that's what is on the front) and Assassin traction bars. New perches if needed, but reinforced either way.
My question is why are you using sliders, did you consider the "angled slot" Calverts and why did you choose AFCO?
Thanks.
 
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I set my pinion angle the way you have described except that I had the car sitting on it's tires at ride height. Once I had it set where I wanted it I tac welded the perches. I also centred the rear diff before the perches were tacked in place. My combo was with calverts / Caltracs and I set the PA @ 5 degrees negative. Make sure to box those perches.
thanks! i was planning on just resting it on the jack stands instead of tires, should be the same? my only concern was , i usually jack it up in the center and dont want the rearend to suddenly rotate while in the process, i guess torque them to a full 50 ft lbs and it should be o.k. the rear end cradle is only rated for 800 lbs, not the full weight of the back of the car.super stock springs with cal tracs bars.
 
My question is why are you using sliders, did you consider the "angled slot" Calverts and why did you choose AFCO?
mine r from speedway,,they r the 1's with bearings..expensive little bastards! wanted more free travel from the springs. AND to correct most of the below std work that was done on the car from the previous owner..
 
Why not the Calverts, and what about the angled slot in the Calvert? Opinion?
went with what most everybody else here are using,,only reason,,car is not back up to race ready from the 70's yet, just correcting problems and installing upgraded componets where possible..thought about installing ladder bars which i have done in the past but too much trouble for what the car will be used for..calverts angled slot could be a gimmick to set them selves apart from all the rest? it should work o.k. as is..
 
Helping a couple friends build a 543 ci. for a street / strip truck in my garage.

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B body is in storage and the A body has been getting all the attention.

Exterior is pretty much finished, glass hood and hemi scoop ordered from AAR today.
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Glass in, adjusted, weather stripping all in and door panels on for good.
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Dash finished up. Everything tested and operational.
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Rug and seats next up.
 
Traffic job you have done on that dart a real show piece. What going to power that machine down the road.
 
Traffic job you have done on that dart a real show piece. What going to power that machine down the road.
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Thanks Bearman. The plan is for a 572 Hemi. That will be phase 3, which is next winter. Almost bought a 472 but some things came up and I ended up stepping back from that. Ordered up a glass hood and hemi scoop for it today. I do have some hemi quote requests out. Thinking that it has to be aluminum and FHO sure has my interest.
 
Yes sir aluminum would be great and being that size is real nice. But I here you have to really work the block to get it correct. That worries me if I'm going to spend that kind of money it should be ready to go. But again it would be nice to have. I have a question for you. You know I'm using super stock springs and sliders and now I wonder about the length of the shocks. I don't want have the shocks to be to short how I'm I going to measure the length correctly. I know you went ladder bar on your 64 but what is your setup on the dart seeing how it's a street car.
 
B body is in storage and the A body has been getting all the attention.

Exterior is pretty much finished, glass hood and hemi scoop ordered from AAR today.
View attachment 891354


Glass in, adjusted, weather stripping all in and door panels on for good.View attachment 891360


Dash finished up. Everything tested and operational.
View attachment 891355

Rug and seats next up.
Aar has been good to me. My parts have fit well and very little prep work needed. Did you do the lift off or hinged.
 
Yes sir aluminum would be great and being that size is real nice. But I here you have to really work the block to get it correct. That worries me if I'm going to spend that kind of money it should be ready to go. But again it would be nice to have. I have a question for you. You know I'm using super stock springs and sliders and now I wonder about the length of the shocks. I don't want have the shocks to be to short how I'm I going to measure the length correctly. I know you went ladder bar on your 64 but what is your setup on the dart seeing how it's a street car.
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Bearman, is your car together? If so jack it up till your tires are off the ground, measure shock bolt to stud distance. Your shock needs to be at least that long. That will get you close.
 
Aar has been good to me. My parts have fit well and very little prep work needed. Did you do the lift off or hinged.
Aar has been good to me. My parts have fit well and very little prep work needed. Did you do the lift off or hinged.
Aar has been good to me. My parts have fit well and very little prep work needed. Ok Did you do the lift off or hinged.
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I have the bolt on hood coming. For 6 lbs more, why not. I will mount it as pin on though.
 
Please excuse my SHAMEFUL ignorance, but i dont know. Did the original hemi darts and cudas come with a lift-off or hinged?

Edit: i suspect a lift-off because of what they did with the A12 a year later.
 
Bearman, i'm sure malex meant to say "jack it up till your tires are off the ground, and the rear suspension is hanging...." , but then i think we all know what he meant.
 
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