icetech
Well-Known Member
Just curious.. how long did it last? I have never run one til this motor and worry bout it..
What did you do to your Mopar today?
- Thread starter MustangAndy
- Start date
Just curious.. how long did it last? I have never run one til this motor and worry bout it..
Tried to find the screws and electrical posts for this in my build boxes! I've lost or temporarily lost them. Got a little more organized in the project build pieces!
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Awesome day!!!
Triplegreen500
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Replaced a bent steering sleeve on her Wrangler today. Something dinged it hard enough it had the wheels toed in probably at least 3 degrees - it was SUPER twitchy. Straightened the old one in the vise and set the new assembly (sleeve and 2 tie rod ends) to match it's (straight) length, put it together, test drive....MUCH better. Might not be 100% "right"...but definitely closer than it was. Added bonus? The steering "CLUNK!" is gone too. Apparently one of the old tie rods was also shot.
I also lowered the skid plate 1/2", to space it away from the frame and help keep it all from rusting. All the TJ/LJ jeep frames rust in the middle at the skid plate because that joint holds ALL the moisture. Space em a half inch, and it has room to dry out. On my non-lifted TJ, I spaced the trans mount back up so my angles stayed the same. On hers, with a 3" lift, I let it drop the 1/2" for a better angle on the (16" long!) driveshaft.
And I wired up the DRL rings on the headlights.
And wired the aftermarket driving lights so they're triggered by the high beams, and not just wired to the battery.
And put 2" lift blocks on the driver's seat (Michelle is....stumpy).
I also lowered the skid plate 1/2", to space it away from the frame and help keep it all from rusting. All the TJ/LJ jeep frames rust in the middle at the skid plate because that joint holds ALL the moisture. Space em a half inch, and it has room to dry out. On my non-lifted TJ, I spaced the trans mount back up so my angles stayed the same. On hers, with a 3" lift, I let it drop the 1/2" for a better angle on the (16" long!) driveshaft.
And I wired up the DRL rings on the headlights.
And wired the aftermarket driving lights so they're triggered by the high beams, and not just wired to the battery.
And put 2" lift blocks on the driver's seat (Michelle is....stumpy).
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
Went to town to buy some bits, website said they were open.
They were closed. Will go again tomorrow. But I did get to meet the bike mob early on. Some sharp looking modern bikes, and some old ones. A cool looking Vet Stingray was there. Doug had me open the oil filter and inspect. Looked okay to me.
They were closed. Will go again tomorrow. But I did get to meet the bike mob early on. Some sharp looking modern bikes, and some old ones. A cool looking Vet Stingray was there. Doug had me open the oil filter and inspect. Looked okay to me.
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
My car in Hemi Survivor tent at Spring Fling
I don't know. @qkcuda had it before me. Then I put around 3500 miles on it. So it is 3500 plus whatever Dave had.
icetech
Well-Known Member
ah ok... that's like 10 years for me then.. i was afraid it's gonna be like 6 months
I originally built the engine in 2009, and I sold the car in 2019, so I ran it for 10 years. I had replaced the bronze gear once. The car did not see a lot of long trips (mostly 1/4 mile at a time), so I probably only put on 1000 or 2000 miles per year. Likely I changed the gear closer to when I sold the car.
icetech
Well-Known Member
Thanks QK, makes me feel better
I just checked my pictures and apparently I changed to the Edelbrock heads in 2014, so likely I swapped the bronze gear when I had it apart, which would have been 5 years of limited mileage.
Worked on the other Mopar. 2013 Jeep Wrangler, replaced front calipers, rotors and pads. Went on the precursor road trip, then ended up replacing both front brake hoses. All better now.
As a side note, the Holt vacuum bleeder thingy from Harbor Freight works beautifully. I used it prior to this to just bleed brakes on my Son's car, but the Wranglers fluid looked suspicious. It took less than an hour to change all the fluid and bleed all four.
As a side note, the Holt vacuum bleeder thingy from Harbor Freight works beautifully. I used it prior to this to just bleed brakes on my Son's car, but the Wranglers fluid looked suspicious. It took less than an hour to change all the fluid and bleed all four.
Pulled out my 3:55 diff today and installed a 3:23, then went for a cruise and took a buddy for a ride. Good day. I like the 3:23 much better for my kind of driving which is winding country roads with occasional straight haul *** stretches. Geared much better for that scenario.
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
Getting the TUKVAN ready for our next trip. List is getting shorter. Kayak is on the side, bike is on the back. We leave for distant places in about two weeks
Working on my buddy Barry's engine.
We got the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and starter on. Runout is .004", which is acceptable.
We also cut, welded and painted a throttle bracket so the throttle cable is properly in-line with a straight pull.
This car will run a sniper system, and it has a big, bulky coil. We mulled over replacing the coil, but elected instead to make a custom bracket that holds it behind the intake manifold. So far, so good. If we don't like it, we can merely unbolt it and replace the coil with a standard one in the front.
We are also messing with little stuff like cable routing. The sniper needs to know temperature, so we ran the cable from the throttle body under the manifold. We clipped it into place so it won't move. It will just have enough room to sneak around the distributor once that is in.
We got the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and starter on. Runout is .004", which is acceptable.
We also cut, welded and painted a throttle bracket so the throttle cable is properly in-line with a straight pull.
This car will run a sniper system, and it has a big, bulky coil. We mulled over replacing the coil, but elected instead to make a custom bracket that holds it behind the intake manifold. So far, so good. If we don't like it, we can merely unbolt it and replace the coil with a standard one in the front.
We are also messing with little stuff like cable routing. The sniper needs to know temperature, so we ran the cable from the throttle body under the manifold. We clipped it into place so it won't move. It will just have enough room to sneak around the distributor once that is in.
Nice work as usual Hawk!
Recognize the valve covers?!?
They do look familiar. Also kind of reminds me of the coil relocation I did after removing the webbing on the Street Dominator. Are you concerned about hood clearance at all with the manifold spacers?
Short answer: Yes.
The car/ hood has been modified and we will ultimately make the hood scoops into a functional air grabber system. But the interface between the engine and air box has not yet been fully designed (and only a prototype air box has been built). I believe it is likely we will need a drop base air cleaner base, but we just don't know actual clearance yet to start designing and building that.
If worse comes to worse...
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