1966 Satellite restomod street toy

[747mopar]

That car is looking gorgeous!!!! I contemplated the whole spare tire as well, running stagered sizes it didn't make sense and just made sure I had towing included in my insurance... the area allowed for a convenient place to hide a woofer box in the end. For the underside of the fenders I used a 2 part spray on bedliner, driving both gravel and chip and seal roads I've yet to damage the fenders. Nice thing about it is it's tintable meaning color options and while it stays rubbery it's still not soft and messy like undercoat. Good luck

Almost forgot, love the trunk.

 

[bherman]

Another great example of how a build thread should be done! And doing exceptional work just adds to it.

I've been a metal fabricator all my life and I can recognize good work. Im seeing great planning, designing and machine work. Fabricating and welding is top notch along with great paint work.

The thing that's missing in your build here is all of the prep work it takes when doing this kind of build. You're showing finished pieces being assembled and I know how much effort it takes to get just one piece ready for assembly. I know your thread would have to be at least twice as long if you showed the "behind the scenes" of what it really takes to accomplish what you have. Just hope others realize all of your efforts. Nice job!

About your concerns of stones doing damage to the inner fenders, maybe you could apply a spray on paintable bed liner type of product under there. Then paint it your body color. A lot of newer cars use the stone guard on the outside of the car (rocker panels) and then it's painted the body color.

Congratulations on your build!

PS: keep the wheels black. Paint a spare wheel gold and try it.

KhryslerKid, thanks for your kind comments, you guys' are making me blush! I'm an old fabby by trade and even though I went into engineering and design my first love has always been building things. I can't take credit for the paint. I like to make stuff not paint.

I understand your comment about the "behind the scenes" as it's the part I enjoy most but I'm not sure that everyone would share our opinion. It seems that I never take enough "in process photos" while I'm working on the parts, just when their finished.

I agree with your spray on bed liner idea. I just haven't been able to bring myself to do it. This car had the factory undercoating package on it and I spent Weeks scraping that crap off.....LOL. Thanks again Brian.

 

[bherman]

Hey Brian, I just finished reading your thread and I bam beyond impressed with both your vision and skill sets. Your work makes the Ring Brother s look like shade tree mechanics.
On the wheel and tire issue you might want to mock up a gold pin stripe on the outer edge of the rim using an extra rim and tire. A little contrast bring s it all together.
I think we all envy your talent and determination especially with your fight with MS. Wishing you a Merry Christmas.
Gary

Thanks for your compliments! Who are the Ring Brothers?

 

[bherman]

Brian,
What about a strip of closed cell foam glued to the area taking the stone abuse? Or some type of sacrificial material styled and colored to match?
Mike

Mike, thanks for your input. Do you think that closed cell foam will hold moisture against the underside of the fender? I considered using thin rubber sheet and bonding it on the "B" surface but if water gets behind it, it will definitely hold water against the fender. I will probably use bed liner as others have suggested, I just like the clean appearance without anything in there (I'm whining). One of the guys' at the shop drove his 66 Mustang to Frankemuth this year and acquired two nice stars in his front fenders. Thanks again Brian.

 

[bherman]

That car is looking gorgeous!!!! I contemplated the whole spare tire as well, running stagered sizes it didn't make sense and just made sure I had towing included in my insurance... the area allowed for a convenient place to hide a woofer box in the end. For the underside of the fenders I used a 2 part spray on bedliner, driving both gravel and chip and seal roads I've yet to damage the fenders. Nice thing about it is it's tintable meaning color options and while it stays rubbery it's still not soft and messy like undercoat. Good luck

Almost forgot, love the trunk.

747mopar, thanks as always. The wheel/tire package won't fit in the spare well. So I made up a "flat" package that includes two types of fix-a-flat, a 12 volt air compressor, tire patches and tools..........Yeah I know, don't say a word,............ I've followed your garage project.

It's likely that the spray bedliner will be the chosen solution for the fender issue, so sometime before spring I'll have to get on it, thanks again Brian.

 

[bherman]

Hi Guy's, I haven't posted in a while, life keeps getting in the way. So here goes a progress report. When I was purchasing the engine components for my car from ICH, I was planning on building a 500 c.i. "B" engine. The components that I selected were in no way intended to by a race piece just a street motor. Some of the parts that I bought were purchased just because I liked the way they looked, not part of a good overall package. I liked the look of a single plane intake manifold as opposed to a dual plane and of course I "had" to have the CNC max wedge ports, even though you can't see them when it's assembled. So I knew that I was selecting mismatched components that were unlikely to be optimum from a performance standpoint. I felt that at 500 c.i. the single plane manifold and the max wedge ports might hurt the low end performance but I wasn't terribly concerned. At this time I purchased an assembled 470 c.i. short block from Indy that I intended to use to use for mock-up for all of the fabrication and make the car run while I was having the short block built. I knew that the short block I bought from Indy had some issues, pitted lifter bores and pitted around the rear main seal holder cap area but I paid less for it than I could have purchased a balanced rotating assembly for and I didn't even have a mock-up block.

Fast-forward to the car is now running and basically finished. The project budget has been significantly exceeded......LOL as always and even with the parts that I thought would be acceptable with a 30 c.i. larger engine it's plenty fast for this old man. Instead of build a larger engine to help with my mismatched components I elected to acquire a good 400 block and machine it to accept the existing components. That part of the project is now finished and it's back in the vehicle and running.

I was very concerned that with my limited air cleaner clearance to the flat hood that it would be restrictive. I found a 16" X 2" drop base that with a 3" tall filter gave me 3/8" to the hood, the engine is mounted in urethane sleeve bushings and it moves very little. Hopefully that's enough clearance. Although the lid is relatively close to the base, the entry shape looked a though it should flow ok.

I decided to dyno this engine not for horsepower numbers but for break-in and leak check. I was surprised the air cleaner turned out to be almost transparent (4-5 HP @ 6000 RPM).

I guess I'm not surprised my mismatched pile of components doesn't make a lot of power. With a 750 CFM carb, relatively small camshaft, air cleaner in place and the vehicle headers, the engine produced 560 HP @ 6000 PRM, peak torque 559@ 4750. I'm sure that with some changes it could be improved but I'm also sure it has more power than this old man needs now. Thanks for looking, Brian

 

[747mopar]

Sounds like a fun engine regardless and looks awesome too. Those numbers are encouraging for me since I'm seriously debating a new engine for my Charger (512 low deck).

 

[bherman]

Sounds like a fun engine regardless and looks awesome too. Those numbers are encouraging for me since I'm seriously debating a new engine for my Charger (512 low deck).

747mopar, thanks for your comments. I think with better component selection @ 512 C.U. you'll be able to make tons of power. Thanks again, Brian.

 

[bherman]

Hi Guys' so it's time for another project! When this engine was on the dyno with the PVC plugged, it had a small amount of crankcase pressure. The rings weren't fully seated so we put a set of really ugly chrome Moroso air cleaner style breathers in the engine, no crankcase pressure. The breathers that are in the photos are 440 Source billet units that my friend Tony Dunlop at the shop re-sculpted and we anodized black. I like the appearance of them but you can hardly blow through them, I sampled some different breathers (very scientifically, I blew through them) and decided that those were very restrictive compared to all of the others I checked. In addition to them being restrictive, the breathers also passed a small amount of oil mist and made a mess on top of the valve covers. The valve covers have no baffles at the breather holes and in my experience with-out baffling they will pass mist oil. I don't like the idea of bolt-in baffles and if we welded them in it would require re-powder coating the valve covers. Trying to keep the engine bay neat in appearance I decided that remote breathers were not an attractive option and that possibly I could design and build breathers that would meet the requirements.

You do have to understand that this is the part of the car hobby that I enjoy and I do realize that most of my friends (and other people) think I'm a nutty. khryslerkid thought I should show more in-process information so here's to you.

My thoughts were to build a larger breather with labyrinth baffles inside in an effort to remove the oil from the exiting air. An outer chamber would contain filter foam to reduce the possibility of in-taking debris. This is what I came up with, what's your prediction do you think it will work?

My concept is that the outer components contain an inner labyrinth "cartridge" that can be changed if it doesn't perform well.

As always your opinions and comments are welcome, thanks, Brian

 

[493 Mike]

Very nice! You might consider some SS filler material between layers, like the product for scrubbing pots.
Mike

 

[747mopar]

Pretty slick machine work. My only question is the center pipe... is it plugged? I see where your going with the multi stage baffles to collect oil allowing it to drain back just didn't understand the center pipe that appears to give oil a straight shot through the baffles althoug it appears that any oil that went up the pipe would likely strain back down the baffles? Very impressive work.

 

[bherman]

Very nice! You might consider some SS filler material between layers, like the product for scrubbing pots.
Mike

Mike, thanks for your comment. I did consider packing a material between the baffles but I wasn't sure it would improve air/oil separation. I was also concerned that pieces of the material might find a way into the engine. The original breathers were packed with some kind of open cell foam that looked like fuel cell foam. The breathers assemble with a snap ring so if the baffles alone don't work well I can try packing them afterwards. Thank you very much for your thoughts, Brian.

 

[bherman]

Pretty slick machine work. My only question is the center pipe... is it plugged? I see where your going with the multi stage baffles to collect oil allowing it to drain back just didn't understand the center pipe that appears to give oil a straight shot through the baffles although it appears that any oil that went up the pipe would likely strain back down the baffles? Very impressive work.

747mopar, you're just to damn observant to put one past. The center tube isn't plugged in the drawing. There is a rubber bumper that gets inserted in the top of tube (not shown in the drawing) loading against the breather cover. The purpose of the bumper is to keep the baffle assembly from rattling in the housing. I guess I'll have to quit being lazy and up my game because people are actually paying attention! Thank as always for your thoughts and kind comments, Brian.

 

[khryslerkid]

Hi Guys' so it's time for another project! When this engine was on the dyno with the PVC plugged, it had a small amount of crankcase pressure. The rings weren't fully seated so we put a set of really ugly chrome Moroso air cleaner style breathers in the engine, no crankcase pressure. The breathers that are in the photos are 440 Source billet units that my friend Tony Dunlop at the shop re-sculpted and we anodized black. I like the appearance of them but you can hardly blow through them, I sampled some different breathers (very scientifically, I blew through them) and decided that those were very restrictive compared to all of the others I checked. In addition to them being restrictive, the breathers also passed a small amount of oil mist and made a mess on top of the valve covers. The valve covers have no baffles at the breather holes and in my experience with-out baffling they will pass mist oil. I don't like the idea of bolt-in baffles and if we welded them in it would require re-powder coating the valve covers. Trying to keep the engine bay neat in appearance I decided that remote breathers were not an attractive option and that possibly I could design and build breathers that would meet the requirements.

You do have to understand that this is the part of the car hobby that I enjoy and I do realize that most of my friends (and other people) think I'm a nutty. khryslerkid thought I should show more in-process information so here's to you.

My thoughts were to build a larger breather with labyrinth baffles inside in an effort to remove the oil from the exiting air. An outer chamber would contain filter foam to reduce the possibility of in-taking debris. This is what I came up with, what's your prediction do you think it will work?

View attachment 680835
View attachment 680837

My concept is that the outer components contain an inner labyrinth "cartridge" that can be changed if it doesn't perform well.

View attachment 680838

View attachment 680839

View attachment 680840

View attachment 680842

As always your opinions and comments are welcome, thanks, Brian

Thanks for the "plug" lol. One way to find out how they work is to install them. Looks like a good concept to me.

I like the idea of crankcase ventilation with a PCV valve. It's forced evacuation if you have the right vacuum port. I know some carbs and certain setups won't allow one, even big cams with less vacuum.

Here's the baffle I used under my valve cover. It is located between the rockers so there's no interference. Found them at Summit in several different sizes. It's been working fine.

Then a breather on the opposite side. The breather does have a semi baffle built in.

 

[bherman]

Thanks for the "plug" lol. One way to find out how they work is to install them. Looks like a good concept to me.

I like the idea of crankcase ventilation with a PCV valve. It's forced evacuation if you have the right vacuum port. I know some carbs and certain setups won't allow one, even big cams with less vacuum.

Here's the baffle I used under my valve cover. It is located between the rockers so there's no interference. Found them at Summit in several different sizes. It's been working fine.

View attachment 681149 View attachment 681148 View attachment 681150 View attachment 681151

Then a breather on the opposite side. The breather does have a semi baffle built in.
View attachment 681153
View attachment 681154 View attachment 681155

khryslerkid, I agree I'm also running a PCV on the opposite valve cover from the breathers. As for the "plug" we fabricators have to stick together there's not many of us left. The self-contained PCV baffle is very nice, I will have to look into those. Thank for your comments and info, Brian.

 

[bherman]

Hi Guys', we anodized and assembled the breathers. I really liked the appearance of the original ones but they didn't work. The new breathers are very large but if they work I guess I'll learn to like them.

So I guess now it's time for the next tweak in this project. After we assembled the car I decided that I had the front ride height to low, after raising the ride height we need to re-bias the shock travel to allow a little more rebound. The total shock travel is fine we just need a little less in bump and more in rebound. To accomplish this I decided that lengthening the upper shock eye would be the least painful course of action. Unfortunately the extended top eyes available for this brand of shock only come in a 1" extension not the 1/2" extension that we need. So we'll be adding a little machining project at this time. I will post more on this as we progress.

Do you think that the new breathers are to obtrusive? As always your thoughts and opinions are welcome. Thanks, Brian.

 

[Riverdawg]

What a sweet car. Your craftsmanship is fantastic.

 

[HD539]

Wow!! Just read through this. All I can say is nice job on the car and the thread.

 

[bherman]

What a sweet car. Your craftsmanship is fantastic.

Riverdawg, thanks for your comments. I can't take credit for all of the craftsmanship, Tony Dunlop CNC'D the outers of the breathers and Mike Nowakowski assisted with machining the bases and assembly. Thanks again, Brian.

Wow!! Just read through this. All I can say is nice job on the car and the thread.

HD539, thanks, I've been working on improving the thread to include more back-ground information. Khryslerkid "nudged" me in that direction. Thanks again, Brian.

 

[bherman]

Hi Guys' In my last post I indicated that longer top shock eyes were in order. I wished to gain some rebound (droop) and reduce the bump side travel. The total shock travel was ok but I had it biased toward the bump side not allowing enough droop. As I indicated the simplest solution was to extend the upper shock eye. I elected to machine them manually so they didn't require CNC time and use up favors. The new eyes aren't as pretty as the originals but I was able to do most of the machine work myself. One of my friends at the shop, Tom B did the snap ring grooves, it's a tricky operation with a standard boring head and requires a deft touch not to snap off the .046 grooving tool. We increased the section under the bore radius to make them easier to machine and I felt the with the increased distance between the end of the shaft and the mono ball bore additional material couldn't hurt.

In the location that they're in the vehicle you really can't see them unless you pull the wheel and tire off. I guess I'm getting lazy. If you're getting tired of seeing this project blame Kryslerkid.......LOL......it's his fault, he's the one that said I needed to include more background information. Thanks for looking, Brian.