1993 Ramcharger starting problems any help?

[batt2rm]

Ok this is the problem I am experiencing and before I just start replacing parts I thought someone would have an idea or two of what is could be. My guess is the electric fuel pump.

Ramcharger sometimes starts right up and runs. It will run fine until I shut it off. If I restart within 3-5 minutes it usually starts up fine. If I wait 10-15 minutes then its a high probability she will not start. If turns over and acts like she wants to start but will die quickly then after a few attempts it will just crank. If I then let her sit until cold sometimes she will start right away other times she will just turn over. OK any help on this one?

 

[sleepar]

Bad coil will act up when hot... or a loose wire or worn out ignition switch bouncing around.... smells like a coil

 

[khryslerkid]

And or bad module. Known to crap out when hot too. When you know it's not going to start, try to see if you have spark. (Doesn't cost anything.)

 

[ws27]

Sometimes when ornery fuel pumps stop working, you can bang on the bottom of the tank with your fist or foot to start them. Try it when it acts up again and if it starts after the bang, change the pump.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

When it doesn't start you need to see what you are not getting. Check for spark. Is this the throttle body injected fuel system? Pull the air cleaner and see if the injectors are spraying fuel.

 

[batt2rm]

Ok going to check for spark and fuel.
Thanks

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Check the OBD 1 codes. My 93 Dodge Ram gave me a fit with problems and I thought I was needing a fuel pump at first. It was the coolant temperature sensor that inputs to the computer. NOT the water temperature sending unit, but it looks similar, and is close to it on the front of the engine. $15.00 part cost me a lot of time, trouble, and $!

 

[batt2rm]

Ramcharger reading code 13

My Ramcharger is reading a trouble code, the engine light flashes 13 times and the code reads No change in MAP from start to run. Would this make the Ramcharger start sometimes and sometimes want to start but won't!

CODE Description of Trouble Code

11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal)
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

 

[383man]

That code means in simple terms that it is not seeing any eng vacum when the eng is started at the MAP sensor. What happens is when you turn the key on a before the eng starts the PCM reads the MAP sensor voltage which means it takes a Baro reading before the eng starts. When the eng starts it should see the Baro pressure reading drop which is vacum as it needs to see it and tell the PCM (controller) what the vacum is. And the PCM is telling us thats its not seeing any vacum reading when the eng starts and thats why it sets that code. You need to check the vacum line to the MAP sensor real close to make sure it is hooked up and not cracked , broken or has anything in it like a bunch of oil ar anything that can block it. If you have a scanner or a digital voltmeter you can check the voltage at it. The MAP sensor has 3 wires on it which are the ground , a 5 volt feed and the sensor return sense wire. The ground is of course just a ground and the 5 volt feed is a 5 volt wire from the PCM. The sensor return is the last wire and you want to backprobe that wire to take a voltage reading with the key on. You need to leave the connector and everything else conected as thats why you need to backprobe that wire as many guys will use a pin and prick the wire to get on ot. If you do prick the wire put some sealer on it when done to seal moisture from it. I cant seem to remember off the top of my head what color the sense wire is as I will have to look it up. But if you prick the wires with the key on eng not running and the conector conected you should see 0 volts on the ground wire and 5 volts on the 5 volt feed and about 4.5 volts on the sense wire. Then start the eng and the sense wire should go from about 4.5 volts to around 1 to 1.5 volts if everything is working right. If the sense wire voltage does not change when you start the eng and it has good vacum to the MAP sensor then the MAP sensor may be your problem. If you cant find any broken or clogged hoses to the MAP sensor then also make sure the vacum feed from the throttle body or intake has good vacum (about 15 to 18). If it has good vacum to the MAP it may have a bad MAP sensor. Hope this helps some. Ron

 

[batt2rm]

383man, thanks for the detailed response! I know that took some time to do and its really appreciated and helpful!
Thanks again
Ron

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Did you check out the coolant temp sensor like I posted earlier? I went through all this crap with my truck, and the code 13 was one of the codes that popped up. I replaced a whole freaking bunch of sensors as well as the IAC motor. It all came back to the coolant temperature sensor. If you read the FSM wiring diagram carefully, you will find everything goes through this sensor! Good luck, and let me know what your final outcome is....

 

[70Gtx]

Crank Sensor On Back Of block passengers side. Remove EGR tube to replace it. Do not Buy an aftermarket Sensor they are Junk! Buy a NEW Mopar Sensor, either from dealer or Flea Bay. You will only want to do this one time since it is a Pain in the ***! Oh use a 1/4 inch drive allen Head Socket required to replace sensor. After successful Replacement enjoy 2 or 3 cans of Busch Light for a Job Well Done!