3 ALL NEW 2 Barrels..

RM23M9A

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Worst, freaking FUEL PUMP removal I think Ive ever done.
Removing the leaky worn out Carter 6903.. How the hell do you get a SOCKET in between left side of pump ad block?!
I had to use a damn pry bar to nearly break the old one to get a thinwall 9/16" on it. Even worse? The damnned Fuel pump rod hole in the block would NOT come out. Luckily I remembered just bump the motor over and eccentric will let up. Pain in the ASS. I used to think SB chevy's were tricky? Hell all ya need there is a cold motor and some grease. At least you can get sockets onto those... Jesus!

Freaking HOLLEY! Outboards delayed now till the 26th?! :mad:
I guess their Dichromating process is still behind. Hell I've already rebuilt one of the originals in the waiting time. If I get the second baseplate from SixPackPerformance and these dont leak and run right?
I may cancel their crap :BangHead:
 

RM23M9A

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Wow...that 6bbl definitely needs some TLC. Be careful with the vacuum pod diaphragms, I've read they tear easily.
That is one thing that I haven't changed, and I'm not going to unless it's neccessary. I don't know what springs are in them, I assume factory stock, but the outboard carbs open at the right time under all circumstances, so I'm not going to fix what isn't broken.
Again, get that 6bbl up and running and be prepared for a truly unique performance experience!
The Vacuum pods are easy. If youve got the dexterity to build a pro built model car theyre no problem. Springs in mine were black. Some say to use the yellow colored ones, they're lighter tension, outboards would take less vacuum to open..
 

biomedtechguy

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Yeah! I think I know why rear plugs were WHITE!
Screws probably not turned for years.
I probably mentioned this, but the outboard carbs idle mixture screws are easily broken if they are old, dirty, never been turned, etc AND they are much more sensitive in that they have a bigger effect with less # of turns.
 

biomedtechguy

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I thought running an STR15 was a radical idea!
[You have a customized hood for running the Weiand?!
Wow!
2nd thing 1st, No, not yet, and it pains my feelings and my wallet to know that I am going to have to have one to make it work. As much as I like the A12 "6 pack" scoop, my all time favorite air induction system of the entire muscle car era across all brands and models is the 70 Air Grabber.
I already got the AMD N96 hood and had it paint matched, and I was about to finish up gathering the remaining parts required to make it functional (it's propped open for now) but then I was smitten by the look and lore of that Weiand, and after a year of struggling with it permeating my brain I got a deal I couldn't pass up, and bought one. Before I do anything else hood-wise to accommodate it, I'm going to try it out, tweak the carbs (the Promax mods should come in handy) possibly tweak the intake via "6bbl FLASH" method and I may do the Chrysler Performance bulletin mods if I am not satisfied with the one off mods of 6bbl FLASH. The Weiand is going to have to be a real dog though for me to abandon it, but after researching more about it in use than any sane person should, including emails and phone calls, I expect to be very happy with the results. That saga may take time, so once I try it out, if it doesn't immediately turn against me, but encourages me like I expect, I am going to see about having the shape of my metal hood "power bulge" raised so as to not have that "Chevy cowl" stigma, and I'm still going to have a functional Air Grabber! Other than the Indy ModMan aluminum shoebox, which would certainly be the "easy" way out, the Weiand is the only single plane solution. If all goes well, the Weiand will get opened up to Max Wedge ports, tuned atop my 541 stroker, and then get polished.
 

RM23M9A

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Why keep an incorrect carb when you are buying a new, "more correct" carb? Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the 3 Holley 2bbl carbs you are buying designed and laid out like the original 6bbl, including the fuel bowl sight plugs?

Actually, sone one had their hands in its' pie...lol
Outboard carbs have Accelerator Pump bowls, as usual they've been plugged with whatever "Goo" they'd use, and sight plugs ARE NOT lower than center carbs' sight plug. Wonder what they'd be worth? 3282/4144/3283 (I beleive) w/o being near car at the moment. Should rebuild em, have em Re-Plated and put em on a display case in living room, as much BS this car has put me alone thru, just this year!
Screenshot_20200821-182150_Gallery.jpg
 

Daves69

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Worst, freaking FUEL PUMP removal I think Ive ever done.
Removing the leaky worn out Carter 6903.. How the hell do you get a SOCKET in between left side of pump ad block?!
I had to use a damn pry bar to nearly break the old one to get a thinwall 9/16" on it. Even worse? The damnned Fuel pump rod hole in the block would NOT come out. Luckily I remembered just bump the motor over and eccentric will let up. Pain in the ASS. I used to think SB chevy's were tricky? Hell all ya need there is a cold motor and some grease. At least you can get sockets onto those... Jesus!

An option.......
upload_2020-8-24_10-54-36.png


Outboard carbs have Accelerator Pump bowls, as usual they've been plugged..........

I believe six pack outboard bowls are available through Holley Tech. 100+ each?
I found this dual inlet bowl with no pump provision and sight plug height (opposite side) in between original outer bowl and standard primary.....
upload_2020-8-24_11-23-13.png


https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopa...k-carburetor-question.468342/#post-1973056199
 

8formulas

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Question: The vent bowl tube on the 4144 center carb, where would you connect the hose to on an A12 car? Or do you simply not put a hose on the carb? Thanks.
 

62MAX

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Question: The vent bowl tube on the 4144 center carb, where would you connect the hose to on an A12 car? Or do you simply not put a hose on the carb? Thanks.

A12 cars used a bowl without a vent tube.

2a79aeb9b891079f09763fd2928461f9.jpg
 

6PKRTSE

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I picked up a 383 six pack intake for my 383. Thinking about all 3 new carbs also since old originals are hard to find and everyone wants so much money for junk carbs.
 

biomedtechguy

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440+6

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This is what mine look like, oct 69 build
No vent tube or breather gizmo eather
IMG_2821.JPG
IMG_2822.JPG
 
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RJRENTON

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A12 cars used a bowl without a vent tube.

View attachment 1013811
IMO....
The primary carb's fuel bowl connection was NOT used on the A12 cars ('69) or the '70 V code engines, except for the California cars (CAS/CAP). This vent connection, when used, went to the crankcase breather's connection, where the fuel vapors emitted, along with the vapors originating from the fuel tank, were stored in the engine'scrankcase, to be purged by the PCV system upon start up. Later, in 1971, this vapor storage system was adopted for all vehicles and engine combinations. The Holley #4144 carb was universally accepted as a replacement. If you are seeking origionality for your model year, simply substitute the appropriate pieces and parts for the earlier models, including the fuel bowl mounting screws.
Looking at #56's pix, the center Holley should have a bowl vent valve, the simple flapper type, operated by a lever on the throttle side. A bowl vent is necessary to prevent fuel vapor pressure build-up on hot soak conditions causing liquid fuel to drip from booster venturii resulting in an over rich mixture and possibly poor idle. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 

62MAX

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IMO....
The primary carb's fuel bowl connection was NOT used on the A12 cars ('69) or the '70 V code engines, except for the California cars (CAS/CAP). This vent connection, when used, went to the crankcase breather's connection, where the fuel vapors emitted, along with the vapors originating from the fuel tank, were stored in the engine'scrankcase, to be purged by the PCV system upon start up. Later, in 1971, this vapor storage system was adopted for all vehicles and engine combinations. The Holley #4144 carb was universally accepted as a replacement. If you are seeking origionality for your model year, simply substitute the appropriate pieces and parts for the earlier models, including the fuel bowl mounting screws.
Looking at #56's pix, the center Holley should have a bowl vent valve, the simple flapper type, operated by a lever on the throttle side. A bowl vent is necessary to prevent fuel vapor pressure build-up on hot soak conditions causing liquid fuel to drip from booster venturii resulting in an over rich mixture and possibly poor idle. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

And how many restored/new center carbs have the wrong choke pull off ? Top is correct,bottom from 4 bbl but it will work,probably on 75 % of sixpack cars out there.

Picture 198.jpg
 
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