69 Charger undergoing multi organ transplant

[OzCharger69]

As part of bringing the Charger to where I exactly want it, I have plenty of work set for the rest of the year. Being a non-RT non-matching number car, I felt I had a poetic license. Most stuff is ordered or already delivered. I'm hoping to document my progress, I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions and I also hope to help other with this thread.

The plan!

1) Front power windows
2) Classic Air
3) Firm Feel stage III box
3) Suspension upgrade - PST adjustable UCAs, big torsion bars, big sway bars, Bilstein shocks, complete bushing kit
4) 512 (400 low-deck stroker) 640hp/675 ft/lb to replace the 383
5) Tremec TKX instead of the 727
6) Conversion auto -> manual - SST kit
7) Dakota Digital RTX gauges

We're in lockdown here so plenty of time to do stuff and prepare. Let the fun begin.

 

[OzCharger69]

My first job was the front power windows. I got the kit from Nu-Relics. I only did the front because I heard the rears are a pain in the a** to install and I felt it would be a real waste. I also bought some stock style switches (OER), I didn't like the GM switches that come with the kit.

You definitely needs a door trim removal tool to pull the door cards or you risk tearing the clips. The regulators were very easy to install and the nu-relics ones fit like a glove. I couldn't see a window stop on the regulator so I did add a cable tie to the mechanical stop on the window frame just to stop the window from travelling too far up.

I wasn't keen on removing the door. to drill holes for the wiring grommets. I was able to insert a cordless drill through the door opening to drill holes for the grommets. I didn't use the rubber boots supplied because they are huge and would have required a massive hole. I just used some grommets from a local car store. I have attached a picture with the wire colour pinout for the switches. It took me almost an hour to figure it out. Luckily the Nu-relic kit and the Charger both use reverse polarity switches. I didn't need to hack much from the door metal to fit the switch on the driver's side. The switch on the passenger side didn't need any hacking.

The job is almost finished now. I will be wiring the windows to a fused constant +ve, the current drain is minimal. I'll post a video when it's fully done.

 

[hunt2elk]

That thing is going to be a beast. Sounds exactly like something I would do .

 

[OzCharger69]

Thanks Elk, yes trying to get the Charger to that happy spot. I don't have 20 cars to look after, so I can focus my time and money on this one.

 

[Budnicks]

Sounds like a great plan, 'Me Likey'

then buy stock in a tire company

 

[fine69]

My 69 charger has power windows….
Driver’s door:

passenger door:

 

[OzCharger69]

Power windows done, time for the next project - Classic Air. The car is a non-AC car so it will need a little more work. The kit is a beauty and the evaporator is much smaller and lighter than the stock non-AC unit. You lose the passenger vent and all the air is recirculated, the fresh air inlet is blocked off. Removing the stock evaporator was relatively easy. I thought I could do without moving the console backwards but you really have to. I have a spaghetti mess of wires and I'll sort that out with a new modern fuse box that will sit in the glove box.

The template for the new holes was straight forward and the unit fit with a bit of wiggling. The pipes are quite mobile so even if the holes are not perfect, it will still fit. It is a 2 person job especially because you need to thread a screw through the firewall. I'll seal the holes with paint and should have most of the interior part done this week. I won't install the engine side yet because I'm waiting on the new donk.

 

[OzCharger69]

My 69 charger has power windows….
Driver’s door:
View attachment 1149419
passenger door:View attachment 1149420

lol, I get that biceps from a different type of practice. Not sure why my left arm is looking so weak

 

[OzCharger69]

A bit more done. The interior part of the install is done, everything working as it should. The controls light up nicely at night. Pulled the cluster off because I should get the Dakota gauges next week or the one after. After that's in, I will re-organise all those wires

 

[OzCharger69]

So finally I get the Dakota gauges, took a bit longer because I wanted them in metric.

The install is fairly straight forward, lots of planning to route the wires etc. I know it now looks "less classic" but the pros outweigh the cons. You get an accurate fuel gauge, accurate speedo, tach and the extra options are infinite with 1/4 mile times, top speed, range etc etc. The whole thing is so customisable. I finally fixed the wiring mess buy putting an aftermarket fuse box in the glove box.

Scott from Dakota is so helpful. He answered my emails within minutes. I had a cracked water temp sensor which for what I know I could have broke myself. He sent me another two, no questions asked.

 

[OzCharger69]

 

[Mopar Hunter]

7) Dakota Digital RTX gauges

So finally I get the Dakota gauges, took a bit longer because I wanted them in metric.

Those Dakota Digital gauges are not the RTX series, did they ship the wrong ones? Should look like this one in the picture below.

 

[OzCharger69]

You are correct, my bad it's the HDX I ordered. I preferred the HDX because of the double display and I wanted a needle on the tach rather than an LED light. I wish the HDX came with the analog clock.

 

[Kern Dog]

Maybe I'm not seeing it right but yours look like mine....which they call the VHX series.

 

[OzCharger69]

Maybe I'm not seeing it right but yours look like mine....which they call the VHX series.

View attachment 1165758 View attachment 1165759 View attachment 1165760 View attachment 1165761

They are very similar. The HDX have more options etc but they do the same thing

 

[OzCharger69]

I finally got around to finishing the engine side of the A/C install. There was a lot of fiddling around especially with the orientation of the compressor on it's side to make the hoses line up. In the end everything came together well and I'm just waiting to borrow a vacuum pump from a mate so I can charge the system and give it a good test run.

I also installed a new Derale thermo fan (4000CFM) to replace the 2000 CFM fans. The shroud needed a fair bit of hacking but it fits. I tested it on a very hot day and boy it makes a difference. Once the temps climb to 185F, the fan kicks in and it drops the temp by 5 degrees in seconds. The older fan would keep up ok but it takes forever to drop the temp by 1 degree.

 

[OzCharger69]

I also started work on the suspension. I removed the front valance and the front bumper. I had a small ding on the front bumper that I have been wanting to fix for a while. I couldn't believe how easy it is to get the front bumper out. It took less than 15 minutes.

Bilstein shocks went in like a breeze. The rears are straight forward. The fronts were easy too, didn't need any control arm disassembly. Once the top and bottom shock bolts were removed, I compressed the old shock by pushing it upwards and out it came. The new shock was compressed before install. You will only have 2 seconds to install it in place before the shock shaft decompresses. It takes a few goes but it goes in easy.

I was dreading replacing the torsion rods. I was afraid they were jammed in there but they popped right out without needing any tools or heat. The new PST are so much thicker and went it easily. That was an hour job. I couldn't get the new rubber boots on because they were too tight. I used the old ones because they were in good shape.

Next up is the sway bar, I'll keep you updated.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Very nice, but.............

Paint those inner door frames black!

 

[OzCharger69]

Very nice, but.............

Paint those inner door frames black!

View attachment 1182373

Not sure what you mean?

 

[Richard Cranium]

Not sure what you mean?

View attachment 1183939

Correct.....

Incorrect......