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70 super bee 440, 6 pack, High idle problem

Here is my super bee 440 6 pack set up
Do I have the vacuum lines correct?
Where does the line from vacuum port top middle carburetor go to?

View attachment 766454

The enclosed bowl vent hose would connect to a three-nipple breather cap or evaporative recovery system if present. If not, the nipple should be left open to the atmosphere.

The hoses connecting to the outboards from the tee have to be the same length.
 
The enclosed bowl vent hose would connect to a three-nipple breather cap or evaporative recovery system if present. If not, the nipple should be left open to the atmosphere.

The hoses connecting to the outboards from the tee have to be the same length.

I'm "assuming" you are referring to the nipple on the breather being left open !
 
I'm "assuming" you are referring to the nipple on the breather being left open !

Negative, the hose nipple for the enclosed fuel bowl vent valve should be left open to the atmosphere if not running a vapor recovery system to retain the function of the fuel bowl vent valve. For ’70 California and ’71 federal production a hose was connected from bowl vent valve to a three nipple breather cap.
 
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Negative, the hose nipple for the enclosed fuel bowl vent valve should be left open to the atmosphere if not running a vapor recovery system to retain the function of the fuel bowl vent valve. For ’70 California and ’71 federal production a hose was connected from bowl vent valve to three nipple breather cap.


I know all that,guess due to my age,have to read between the lines a little better,or pay attention before I comment!:realcrazy:
 
Was wondering do they sell a electric chock or a manual choke for the 6 pack set up?
 
3 nipple breather on valve cover.

Valve covers.jpg evap.jpg
 
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I have connected all the vacuum lines. I have not had the high idle issue . Not sure if that is why.
**The next problem I have is
I installed a new heat choke thermostat. Coil sits in below the intake cup held by two small bolts. With engine being cold, 75*
The center carburetor butterfly is closed. Also, when choke linkage is connected and at 75*, By hand, I can open and close the the butterfly no hang up in the linkage.
After running the car for 10 minutes, couple times around the block the butterfly remains closed. Does not seem like choke thermostat arm is moving when engine is getting hot thus opening the butterfly. Am I missing something
 
Are the crossover ports blocked or are you running head without the crossovers? Without the heat from the crossovers the divorced choke spring will not relax completely.

This is how I solved this problem
My aluminum valley pan gasket blocks the heat to the intake, and I never thought about that being the reason why my choke plate doesn't open all the way even though I can open it once the engine is warm without resistance. This thread made me realize that could be my problem, so thanks to all.
I am going to try tweaking the rod and/or adjusting the thermostat coil to fix the little bit that the plate doesn't open.
I'm going to check out your link too.
:thankyou:
 
Keep in mind, without crossover heat, backing off on the spring or linkage adjustments to allow the choke to open completely while warm will throw off the cold choke operation. More details in the Moparts link.
 
Are the crossover ports blocked or are you running head without the crossovers? Without the heat from the crossovers the divorced choke spring will not relax completely.

This is how I solved this problem
Keep in mind, without crossover heat, backing off on the spring or linkage adjustments to allow the choke to open completely while warm will throw off the cold choke operation. More details in the Moparts link.

For give me, I'm not familiar crossover. can you provide more detail on it?
 
Keep in mind, without crossover heat, backing off on the spring or linkage adjustments to allow the choke to open completely while warm will throw off the cold choke operation. More details in the Moparts link.
I think I would be ok with that. Unfortunately I don't see a time when I can make the time to put together the great electronic setup you did. If I have to compromise, I'd rather the choke plate open all the way. If I still have trouble, I can see about having the setup you did done by a local shop.
I like, really like working on my car, but lower back problems and being a one man small business means delegating some work to others while I work in my area of expertise.
 
A little confused,if the choke plate is closed I doubt you could make a few trips around the block without stalling.A closed plate will stall a running engine Also,the thermostat does not completely open the choke,it relaxes the spring tension,the choke pull-off keeps the choke open.Have you checked the pull-off ?
 
A little confused,if the choke plate is closed I doubt you could make a few trips around the block without stalling.A closed plate will stall a running engine Also,the thermostat does not completely open the choke,it relaxes the spring tension,the choke pull-off keeps the choke open.Have you checked the pull-off ?
The choke pull-off plays no role in opening the choke at operating temperature. The choke spring should be completely relaxed at operation temp, as designed with the presence of crossover heat. Without crossover heat it will not relax as it should, choke will not open completely.
 
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Pull-off only job is to open choke plate slightly when cold to allow some air in. Also if heat riser is stuck open that will delay the choke opening also.
 
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