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Huh... Something is wrong with the starter or you're powering it wrong.
Does mini starter need an external relay?
- Thread starter matthon
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you need power to retract the starter
FACT: the mini starter is modern technology. The solenoid in the starter takes SIGNIFICANTLY less current than the old units and is triggered with an 18ga wire as opposed to what - an 8 or 10ga on the old units. It will operate with virtually any run-of-the mill 40a relay - as seen in the fuse/relay box on modern vehicles.
So simply put - you can get rid of that ugly, rust-prone tin can that came on our older vehicles. Replace it with a small tidy unit.
See the photo - the attached thin (18ga) wire is the only wire other than the positive battery cable that needs to run to the starter.
So simply put - you can get rid of that ugly, rust-prone tin can that came on our older vehicles. Replace it with a small tidy unit.
See the photo - the attached thin (18ga) wire is the only wire other than the positive battery cable that needs to run to the starter.
HUH ?!?!?
kltighe
Member
The aftermarket mini-starter has two terminals. One large one for ~4awg wire direct to battery. Always hot. The other smaller one engages solenoid which pushes out the pinion and spins the motor when start is called for. When current to smaller terminal is interrupted the starter continues to spin. Inside the solenoid can I can see two leads going to the coil. One goes to the smaller starting terminal and the other to the starter side of the high amperage copper switch. My ohm meter tells me both see ground through the coil. I can’t see what is supposed to stop the starter once it is started! This is a mystery.
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Like I said ^^ the start is fawked then. As soon as the energizing comes off of that small bendix coil energizing terminal the starter should drop out.
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Correction power to activate the solenoid.
kltighe
Member
It looks like there two circuits in the “bendix coil”. One energized by the start terminal, which makes sense. The other energized by current passing through the big copper switch, which does not make sense because this makes the starter sort of self energizing.
NOT how it works. The lower current engages the solenoid and yes it pushes out the gear. However, it also has a very large high current contactor which engages the actual starter motor. When current to the small terminal is broken the solenoid is retracted by a spring. Since the high current contactor is also retracted the power to the starter is no more and it stops turning. PERIOD.
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I'm out...
kltighe
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I agree that is how it is supposed to work. I just wish it would work that way. When current to the small terminal is broken the coil remains energized and holds the steel slug out. The spring seems like it is good and the pinion returns back where it should be with authority when the battery lead is disconnected.
You have a very unique starter. And I don't mean that in a good way.
kltighe
Member
I’m beginning to suspect the solenoid coil is shorted somewhere in the middle of the windings and effectively making two electro magnets out out of a single coil that is only meant to act as one?? That would qualify as unique I think.
The "contactor" is, in simple terms, a large copper washer. The current going through it is very high and each time it contacts it sparks. When the contactor is new and clean it works flawlessly BUT with age the contacts become pitted and contaminated and will "possibly" fuse together, allowing the starter to continue to run on.
kltighe
Member
Yes I understand that, but the starter is new, never installed. When I disconnect the battery, the plunger and pinion snap back where they should be with authority. It is current in the solenoid coil that is holding the contactor in. I feel like I’m wasting everyone’s time here. The offshore aftermarket starter is defective even though it spins up fast, smooth and quietly.
The starter has an issue period. The solenoid only pulls one way. When power is removed the unit quits spinning under power and the drive retracts mechanically. This then allows the large round contact disc to break contact from the two terminals. There is a small spring that helps push them away. There could be no spring or its messed up in some way or its binding. The starter needs to come apart. Its not rocket science.
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
I just hooked everything up as factory with a stock relay and never an issue.
That won't solve his issue.
kltighe
Member
The moral of the story is I should have picked up a used OEM starter rather than wasting everyone's time because I got lazy and bought the offshore one on EBay! I would gladly have gone to Pull-a-Part if only it wasn't so darn cold outside! I have pulled the 3 screw endcover off the solenoid and it appears that this is NOT a mechanical issue but rather an electrical one. The plunger, copper hi-current contacts and springs all look fine. One solder joint on one of the solenoid leads does not look factory or professional. Why don't I learn not to fall for the cheap Ebay stuff? Thanks again for all your help.
I don’t know why people shop ebay for car parts. Rockauto have much better choices, pricing, return options, etc.
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