Engine rebuild on my '67 Coronet 500 - 383 4 BBL

[TekHousE]

OK I will start this topic now.

My car was just put away at my mates garage. He will store my car in a warm garage space while we rebuild the engine, gearbox and rear end.

The plan is to get the engine completely refreshed and most likely add some HP to the mix. My car has the original engine in it, same with the gearbox, my rear end is not the original one, it was changed at some point to a 489 case 8 3/4 with open wheeler center 3.23:1 ratio.

Overall I want the engine bay to be as CLOSE to looking stock as possible. This is going to be a challenge and sure real MOPAR people will know what we have done, but all my original parts will be retained so it could go back to stock , head-wise etc.

The plan:

• 
  The engine is coming out on the 15th of this month (November) - My mate and I will be taking it out.
  Disassemble the engine entirely, check bores etc. Determine what we need to rebore to, machine work etc.
  Based on the machine work choices, select the new pistons ring packs etc. My thoughts are leaning towards flat tops, modern style ones. Compression aims for this engine are for near stock levels of compression.
  Cam will most likely be Hughes Whiplash ROLLER Cam that has the following specs:
  
  Camshaft Technical Details
  Intake Valve Lift 1.5 .510"
  Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5 .521"
  
  Intake Valve Lift 1.6 .544"
  Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6 .555"
  
  Intake Duration at .050" 228°
  Exhaust Duration at .050" 236°
  
  Lobe Separation Angle 107º
  
  Intake Opening at .050" 12° BTC
  Exhaust Opening at .050" 50° BBC
  
  Intake Closing at .050" 36° ABC
  Exhaust Closing at .050" 6° ATC
  
  Heads are a choice between the RPM's or the new 'Garlits' ones. I am leaning towards the Garlits ones, I am interested in them and have been talking to the guy doing the machine work on them already.
  Intake will be something from Edelbrock, no choice yet. And a Holley DP of some type.
  Exhaust manifolds will be changing from my stock LOG TYPE, to HP repros from Year One. They are ordered already, but long lead time from Y1. They are saying they won't ship until early December, not a problem..it's winter.
  Exhaust system will include QTP Electric cut outs, and most likely a Magnaflow system, with H-Pipe, 2.5" at this point.
  Diff will get an Eaton truetrac center, we will use my gears, so I will stay with 3.23:1

We have not decided to by bare heads and build them ourselves or get them built already. I have offers on both ways from Hughes for the RPM's and Toth Performance.

That's it for now..I will add to this with photos as we progress.

 

[TekHousE]

OK, to say I had 'some' progress would be an understatement.

Today a mate and I took the engine out, gearbox out, removed the Diff center too. Then we disassembled the engine as well. SO it is now ready to go to the machinist for cleaning, checking and any work that it might need. From the looks of it, not very much work is needed. We will most likely line bore it though, since one crank journal looks to have suffered from lack of oil, most likely at the start of it's life.

But a lot of GREAT news.

I am as close to 100% sure now that this is the genuine original engine for my car!

Check the stamp out on one of the cam bearings:


From what I gather, bearing is Clevite 77, stamped 9th month 1966. if I am wrong about this please let me know. But if this is correct, it all makes perfect sense, since my car was built November 22nd 1966.

More evidence, My block has the cast numbers and what I believe is the cast date:

2468130 put's the block in the correct time frame and the 7 66, would be 7th month 1966 cast date..What do you all think? I believe this is correct, and fits with my cars build date.

My heads have the numbers: 2406516

I am not using them, although they are in great condition. But I will clean them up and store them in case I sell the car and the next owner wants to take it back to stock. (for the record I am never planning to sell this car..But silly money offered..she's gone LOL)

I have a question for the gurus..

Since everything points to this engine never being worked on, at least the bottom end, we could not work out why the color of the rods were like this? Forgive my ignorance on big blocks, as this is the first one I have ever pulled apart that was original. And all my other builds back in the day were on Mopar small blocks. But I have never seen rods like this (color wise). Did Ma Mopar coat them with copper?

And this is why we are going to check the crank for straightness and line hone the block.

Looks like this journal starved for oil at some point.

None of the other journals or mains show any signs of movement or vibration. Piston walls all look new, bores are still rock stock bore size. So we will go 030 on this when we bore it. (purely because 030 pistons seem easier to get than 010. I am not sure why this is? Anyone know?

So that's it for today..a couple more car **** shots..

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Great progress Tek..... A well deserved glass is needed....

 

[TekHousE]

I'm headed to the sauna now, and right after that..it seems you read my mind! ;)

 

[Gpuller]

Looks like it was time for a rebuild. Keep us posted, interested in which heads you will use. The Garlits head look like a deal to me.

 

[benno440]

yes i would like to know how you go ith the garlits heads as well, i am leaning to those or the new trick flows in a few years

 

[TekHousE]

My goal Benno is to keep the compression down. The trickflows are not going to suit what I need for this car. I do like those heads too, but then I would have to choose a different cam. And this car is not meant to race. I am choosing the whiplash cam so it sounds evil, pulls at the low to mid end and then cruises at the top.

I will make sure to post how things work out on the Garlit's heads.

 

[benno440]

might as well stroke it while you got it apart?

 

[TekHousE]

Maybe on my next car..

 

[HawkRod]

Nice work Tek!

I assume you will be painting the new heads and intake to make them harder to detect? I like the stealth idea. For my car, although I am modifying it, I am trying to keep it as stock looking (or "day 2" modded) as I can.

Hawk

 

[TekHousE]

Yep mate..I have moved past my early days of putting chrome this and polished that, on an engine. My car picked up 3 major prizes this last summer, so I want that trend to continue and its' strength is in the stock look.

 

[HT413]

Just a thought, have you considered 440 source heads? If you grind down the large parting line on the front of the head and paint them engine color, I'd bet the local judge from a small local car show will think they're stock.

 

[TekHousE]

HI, I had considered them as I knew they look pretty stock. But I am going to rebuild and keep my original heads too, which takes care of originality if I sell the car. But for the performance, I think those garlits heads tick the boxes, one of the major ones being that they are made in USA. ;)

 

[coronet340]

Nice progress Tek. Make sure you get us a video once she is up and running again.

 

[HT413]

HI, I had considered them as I knew they look pretty stock. But I am going to rebuild and keep my original heads too, which takes care of originality if I sell the car. But for the performance, I think those garlits heads tick the boxes, one of the major ones being that they are made in USA. ;)

Yeah I hear ya. Those garlits heads are super cool. Post up some photos!

 

[HawkRod]

Hey Tek,

One comment: With stock HP exhaust manifolds, I doubt you will get any advantage out of the Garlits heads vs. the 440 Source Heads. My guess either set would end up giving you about the same overall performance, but the 440 Source heads could be more "stealth".

Just a thought...

 

[TekHousE]

I hear you..But what about the made in China vs made in the USA part? I thought the Source heads are NOT US made?

 

[HT413]

I hear you..But what about the made in China vs made in the USA part? I thought the Source heads are NOT US made?

Very true, 440source are made of chinesium for sure.

 

[HawkRod]

I hear you, and agree we should go with USA made parts whenever feasible. I have a few chinesium parts for my Road Runner. Some fit and work really well and will be used, some were horrible and were rejected. The problem is if you don't have a choice.

In this case, I have heard a lot of decent things about the 440 Source heads. If they are quality made, then in my book they are an acceptable (but not preferred) alternative. So then it is just a decision: Chinese + More Stealth vs. USA + Less Stealth.

Obviously, I am not trying to push the decision any particular way Tek - build your car as you want. Just offering points of view for consideration...

 

[Avantguy]

Damn, nnow you are making me rethink about my engine.