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How close are modern paint formulas to vintage colors ?

rustytoolss

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So how close are modern paint formulas to vintage colors ? In 1962 there was no BC/CC. I have the 1962 paint codes which was emanel (I think) Luminous Cordovan met paint code " S "& Luminous Brown met paint code " Y " . Both can still be made as single stage and as BC/CC. I am thinking of painting the engine bay with single stage. But I would think the body will be in BC/CC.
My steering columm and dash cluster pod are the orginal paint ( luminous Cordovan) . By the Luminous Cordovan is a Burgundy Metallic . So how close wil the modrn paint match the orgial color ??
 
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My perspective from the one and only job I’ve done is the match with modern formulas was a really good match to original. I redid my 65 Belvedere in original Dark Turquoise Met. The only spot on the car that was still in original paint when I repainted it was the package tray and it was a very good match. But you also need to consider that your original paint that you’re trying to match is 60 years old and may not resemble exactly how it was when new.
I got a sample from the paint supplier before I bought the full amount and sprayed a spare piece of sheet metal to check the color match. I wasn’t overly concerned because everything that was visible was going to be repainted and my interior dash/column was not painted body color. I would request a paint sample and test a scrap piece.
 
I tried to find a formula for the "Shell Beige" which my '62 was painted. No luck with any brand. There's been billions of formulas created since 1962 and once there isn't a demand for a certain color the formulas get discarded or lost. That color is one of them. After countless tries with a color camera, a fellow at the last paint store tried a Ford color that is almost an exact match. "Pastel Alabaster".

It's exactly what I needed the paint for, doing the engine compartment. Using a single stage shop grade or acrylic enamel will do a good job. The one thing about a BC/CC is its too shiny for these older cars that originally had just an enamel. I've seen quite a few that were clear coated and in my opinion they just don't look right. A few colors do look good but most are just way too glossy. JMO

Painting small parts like in the interior I've used Eckler's or MACs (same outfit) and have found a lot of their Ford colors do match. "Rose Beige" for one is as close to perfect as you'll get for the same Rose Beige in my interior.

My guage pod and steering column are that deep burgundy color also. The '62 Dodge and Plymouth have a lot of the same colors but they called them different names.
 
I don't know about matching exactly to the original paints. I have read that the paint used was so thin and 'watered down' that it didn't come close to what a modern paint job looks like.

I had a couple of samples analysed by spectrometer used by PPG here...and they got a nice colour, but it is far from looking original. Although, it is hard to tell....it looked awesome on the car, but I feel it is a lot darker and more rich than the original paint would have looked back in 1970.

:xscuseless:

Interior shot is the same base coat with a matt clear to keep the paint sealed and clean. Windscreen is unmolested from original.

Windscreen bare.jpg
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They put pearl in about everything nowdays. Even old formulas. Add clear coat on top and it looks nowhere close to the original polyurethane enamel. Many properly restored cars use the old stuff for texture and low gloss.
 
The originals were acrylic enamel. The new urethanes look way too good compared to the originals.
 
FYI The main difference between acrylic and poly is that acrylic paint is water-based while polyurethane paint is usually oil-based. Mopar used poly in the 60's when most of our cars were built.
 
Best bet is to find an area of OEM paint that can be scanned by a color match gun.

My local shop has been 100% dead on with hard to match YY1, JY3 and EW1.
 
is the match with modern formulas was a really good match to original.
Current "oranges" are virtually impossible to match to original oranges of the muscle car era - the tints are no longer made due to EPA regulations. Can't speak to all the old colors but that's my recent experience. Maybe someone like Chip Foose could nail it but your average paint shop guy isn't interested in doing any custom blending.
I have read that the paint used was so thin and 'watered down' that it didn't come close to what a modern paint job looks like.
Actually, that's the issue with the current products. There is so much "binder" in the mixture that its not uncommon to need eight or more coats for complete coverage. You buy a can of paint and its so transparent it looks like its clearcoat that someone added tint to !!!

Currently the only brand of solvent-based paint with no binders that I know of is Automotive Art.
 
I tried to find a formula for the "Shell Beige" which my '62 was painted. No luck with any brand. There's been billions of formulas created since 1962 and once there isn't a demand for a certain color the formulas get discarded or lost. That color is one of them. After countless tries with a color camera, a fellow at the last paint store tried a Ford color that is almost an exact match. "Pastel Alabaster".

It's exactly what I needed the paint for, doing the engine compartment. Using a single stage shop grade or acrylic enamel will do a good job. The one thing about a BC/CC is its too shiny for these older cars that originally had just an enamel. I've seen quite a few that were clear coated and in my opinion they just don't look right. A few colors do look good but most are just way too glossy. JMO

Painting small parts like in the interior I've used Eckler's or MACs (same outfit) and have found a lot of their Ford colors do match. "Rose Beige" for one is as close to perfect as you'll get for the same Rose Beige in my interior.

My guage pod and steering column are that deep burgundy color also. The '62 Dodge and Plymouth have a lot of the same colors but they called them different names.
Kid, what type of paint and brand did you use on your steering columm and dash gauge pod ? This is the color I could use the most information about, any help would be great. Thanks Pictures ?

P1040784.JPG
 
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I spent several years as an automotive paint scientist. The color "code" (e.g. FC7) is exact, regardless of the type of paint. The difficulty can be the person blending the paint or their equipment.
Orange (& yellows) - I hadn't thought of that, but I believe it. Many yellows/oranges were based on cadmium (a heavy metal - cancer, 3rd arms growing, etc).
I also believe there was more "orange peel" (paint waves) in the 60's paint. The clear coats used today are usually smooth as glass
 
My JY3 (tan-yellow) and YY1 (bronze-tan-gold) again, came out perfect.
 
Kid, what type of paint and brand did you use on your steering columm and dash gauge pod ? This is the color I could use the most information about, any help would be great. Thanks Pictures ?

View attachment 1585158

Mine was a brown in color. I cheated and used a spray bomb of Rustoleum brown I found in the paint cabinet.

Before
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After
Screenshot_2017-07-23-20-43-03.jpg
 
One way is to find someone who has recently painted that color on their car. It's not easy finding these colors.
The only place I've seen this color is on old paint chips (internet pics and the look different ) and on my steering columm and dash cluster pod.)
 
Your color match will depend on the guy that mixs it.
Little things like age of tints , turning on the mixers each morning ect , scale zero tared ,ect makes all the differance.
 
If the 18 year old kid with dreadlocks at the shop near me can do it...money says a "competent shop" near you can do it.
 
The originals were acrylic enamel. The new urethanes look way too good compared to the originals.
People keep saying that.... But really I think Acrylic Enamel can look pretty good if the person who's laying it down knows how the run their gun...

Check the reflection on the side of my Challenger...

Realize, this is a fairly light color, darker colors reflect and show depth a lot more..

IMG_0036.JPG
 
my paint store offers "color map" formulas....... I had an area of nice original paint under the tail panel on this deck lid, and zeroed in on it pretty good

1704474586586.jpeg
 
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